SP_Modeler
Chairman
SP never died in my world.
Posts: 389
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Post by SP_Modeler on Aug 23, 2010 0:57:43 GMT -5
I Finally got my Proto 2000 GP 60 in SP Speed lettering the other day. Most folks would be all happy and running it around on a test track and bragging to their friends about their new acquisition. My intention was to just change the cab side numbers and add white number boards with black numbers, and be happy I have one like nobody else's when I'm done. ;D Me? NOoo I cant do things the easy way... I got out the 91% alcohol and figured out how to dissemble the thing and dunked all the plastic bits into the alcohol and stripped it down to bare plastic, this whole process took less then an hour. Next I got out all the detail parts I wanted to add, air tanks, filters, fine wire of various thickness's and got to work, that took about 3 hours to replace the details on the lower frame. The details provided were very nice but not three dimensional, they were all half shapes( flat on the back ) and for me they just weren't cutting it. I also bought the correct style air conditioner and a beautiful little Precision Scale air horn with stand. So far so good. I was all happy and smiling etc when I took a little closer look at the long hood doors.... Now for those of you who don't know SP and SSW and DRGW got their GP60's in 6 orders. During the course of the last 4 orders, EMD changed the long hood door arrangement that now included 2 doors on each side having their latches removed, and two doors having new latches that are lined up in the center of the door instead of cheated to the left or right like these. Also, the 2 latches on the Engineers side of the dynamic brake fairing are gone replaced by 3 bolts. So, the easy thing to do would be to get a new Cannon and co. nose with a flush mounted brake wheel and be done with it, just paint it up in SSW or SP (early versions, no speed lettering ).... That's just not what I wanted for this unit, so out came the mini chisel blades, sandpaper and putty. So far I am done with all the modifications except putting the new door latches in on each of the two doors per side. I plan on using some donor door latches from Cannon and Co. doors to fit into the little rectangles I'm going to drill out and cut into the new locations. I still need to add MU Hoses Train Air lines, the plow and step lights and the roof details, sunshades, whip antenna, can antenna ditch lights etc. etc. If I don't lose my vision or sanity while doing this, I should have it ready for paint later this week. This is what it should look like when it's done I still shake my head in disbelief at the fact that I do all this work to make something perfect then turn around and make it look worn and used...maybe I need a hobby? ;D Till next time, Paul
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deez
Chairman
Midland Belt Railway
Posts: 949
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Post by deez on Aug 23, 2010 1:24:18 GMT -5
Gotta love the little things nagging you to make them correct. I have that same problem. Nice model so far Paul!
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SP_Modeler
Chairman
SP never died in my world.
Posts: 389
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Post by SP_Modeler on Aug 23, 2010 2:15:00 GMT -5
Thanks Mark , glad ya like it. I'd eventually like to build one from each of the orders that SP/SSW/ DRGW got. This is the first I've ever seen of this particular model being out of the hobby for as long as I was. I am quite impressed with the over all detail and fit/finish of the model and it runs great too! If I wasnt such a dang detail nut, I'd have just left it alone and be hunting for my next loco or piece of rolling stock to trick out! It never ends and I like it that way More pics soon. Paul
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Post by antlorch on Aug 23, 2010 7:05:11 GMT -5
Doesn't some company make brass door latches? Those might be easier to work with,other wise i know what you mean about being anal on some things..
Looking great so far which road again? SP Kodochrome? LOL ;D Sorry couldn't help myself...
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Post by icghogger on Aug 23, 2010 8:54:59 GMT -5
Doesn't some company make brass door latches? Those might be easier to work with,other wise i know what you mean about being anal on some things.. Sunrise made some nice "knuckle-buster" latches, but I have not found any of late. The only other maker I know about would be Railflyer. They make a plastic version that is nicely detailed.
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SP_Modeler
Chairman
SP never died in my world.
Posts: 389
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Post by SP_Modeler on Aug 23, 2010 16:54:42 GMT -5
Thank You Anthony and Robert for the kind words.. I am going to use the Cannon and company donor doors for thier latches because I already have them, and they look very similar to the ones already molded. The Railflyer latches look beautiful, but @ $9.45 for 18 when I only need 8, it's just not cost effective, and knowing me I'd want to replace them all and end up dumping 30 something bucks to do the whole unit! Uhhhh...newp, I'm gonna do it with what I already have ;D Wish me luck fellas.. Paul
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Post by Raeder on Aug 23, 2010 20:42:19 GMT -5
Wow, the first thought I had when I read you had stripped and dismantled the new unit was...you're in good company around here! I've done the same to some units, although I draw the line at redoing the latches on the doors. Too much work for me, but it'll look cool when you're done, I'm sure.
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SP_Modeler
Chairman
SP never died in my world.
Posts: 389
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Post by SP_Modeler on Aug 23, 2010 21:03:42 GMT -5
Thanks Chris, I've tripple checked the photos I have of 9792 and it's as standard as the last order of GP60s were. I picked up a couple more detail parts for it today and I should be good to go. I agree a lot of variations in the orders, but nothing some research cant handle. Stay tuned more to come! Paul
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SP_Modeler
Chairman
SP never died in my world.
Posts: 389
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Post by SP_Modeler on Aug 23, 2010 21:06:19 GMT -5
Thanks Kevin... Yeah I wasn't going to at first, and I know that 98% of most folks wouldn't even notice or know any different...heck, I didn't till I started digging! LOL I know if I want to represent one from each of the six orders its going to take some work...I like to see how far I can push myself and what talents I have.. this might be the one to land me in the funny farm, but I'm happy to try! Wish me luck! Paul
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Post by sd45longhoodfoward on Aug 24, 2010 4:31:01 GMT -5
Paul it will look great iam sure of this and might i suggest Prozak LOL his straight jacket is painted sp gray with the bloddy nose!!!
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Post by graftonterminalrr on Aug 24, 2010 15:28:28 GMT -5
Looks TERRIFIC.
Andy Harman always said that the Proto GP60 is one of those "under the radar" models. It's one of the best shells Proto ever made combined with the last iteration of the Athearn clone drive used since the BL2.
This means that it's prone to the cracked-gears syndrome, but is almost bulletproof and easy to modify a la the Jim Six Fix (which I do to all my Athearns and Athearn-clone Protos).
The Proto GP60 was made in what, only two or three runs? First run was in the separate shell/frame blue Proto box, with the second and/or third runs done in the Fully Assembled grey box. They tend to go rather cheaply for some strange reason too.
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SP_Modeler
Chairman
SP never died in my world.
Posts: 389
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Post by SP_Modeler on Aug 24, 2010 19:09:51 GMT -5
Paul it will look great iam sure of this and might i suggest Prozak LOL his straight jacket is painted sp gray with the bloddy nose!!! Thanks Terry, They havent built a straight jacket that can hold me yet ;D I got all 8 latches in and they look great.. was a pain, but one that was worth it to me. They just need a little sanding around the edges etc. and then I can re-prime the long hood and move forward. Paul
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SP_Modeler
Chairman
SP never died in my world.
Posts: 389
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Post by SP_Modeler on Aug 24, 2010 19:13:06 GMT -5
Looks TERRIFIC. Andy Harman always said that the Proto GP60 is one of those "under the radar" models. It's one of the best shells Proto ever made combined with the last iteration of the Athearn clone drive used since the BL2. This means that it's prone to the cracked-gears syndrome, but is almost bulletproof and easy to modify a la the Jim Six Fix (which I do to all my Athearns and Athearn-clone Protos). The Proto GP60 was made in what, only two or three runs? First run was in the separate shell/frame blue Proto box, with the second and/or third runs done in the Fully Assembled grey box. They tend to go rather cheaply for some strange reason too. Thanks Kris, I appreciate the background info on the model as well. One of the guys at the club who also works at the LHS is who tipped me off about the P2K GP60's. I was inquiring about Athearn stuff but I knew the wheel base and some other details were off.. this one is going to look the part! Paul
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Post by sd45longhoodfoward on Aug 25, 2010 20:05:13 GMT -5
cant wait my friend to see it all done sp_modeler style!
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SP_Modeler
Chairman
SP never died in my world.
Posts: 389
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Post by SP_Modeler on Aug 26, 2010 15:53:41 GMT -5
Thanks again Terry. I ended up replacing the DW Air tanks with Cannon and Company Tanks, they had better detail IMHO. P2K Cast the frame a bit thick around the fuel tank where it meets the frame, so I had to grind some of it back so the air tanks didnt stick out beyond the sill. They are in position now and look much better. I'd highly recomend Cannon and Co's air tanks, and will use them on all future builds. I'm going to be up in the woods camping in the Cascades for the next 2 days so I'll get back to this build next week with more pics just before paint. Paul
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drgwguy
Chairman
Modeling the DRGW in the 70s-80s!!
Posts: 528
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Post by drgwguy on Aug 26, 2010 17:15:07 GMT -5
Paul-
Looks good buddy! I hope you don't mind that I won't getting as "anal" on the small stuff for my current project? I had to fab some stuff for the dynamic access hatch. I used a Cannon, but it wasn't nearly thick, or tall enough, so I added the part to some thin styrene and made it work. It is, by no means prototype! But I think it looks okay........but I digress!
Lookin good bro!!!!
Rick
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SP_Modeler
Chairman
SP never died in my world.
Posts: 389
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Post by SP_Modeler on Aug 26, 2010 23:25:20 GMT -5
Paul- Looks good buddy! I hope you don't mind that I won't getting as "anal" on the small stuff for my current project? I had to fab some stuff for the dynamic access hatch. I used a Cannon, but it wasn't nearly thick, or tall enough, so I added the part to some thin styrene and made it work. It is, by no means prototype! But I think it looks okay........but I digress! Lookin good bro!!!! Rick Rick, Firstly, Thank you for the kind words! ;D Second, Who am I to mind? I'm just like you...I build some things detailed to the rivet, and I let others just be.. Your work no mater what or how you do it, and to what level is awesome and inspiring, and it's obvious you have fun doing it, and that's what matters. I came within seconds of buying a New Rio Grande T-2 today largely due to checking out what you had done on your web page! I bought a 45T-2 instead as I didn't have one yet..Oh Lord the fun I'm going to have with this one! ;D I may try and talk you out of the SF "45" in Kodachrome paint you have for sale some day, that thing is "beautimus" and would look excellent as pool power. I'm sure the guys at the club would appreciate seeing somebody else's work when it looks that great. Now I have to finish up the two I have going, GP60Ph2 and B30-7, and then I can start to play with my New 45T-2R. This is what I have in mind for my New T-2... Paul
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drgwguy
Chairman
Modeling the DRGW in the 70s-80s!!
Posts: 528
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Post by drgwguy on Aug 27, 2010 12:54:23 GMT -5
Paul- Don't let espeeayssie see that SP Kodachrome! thanks for the kind words too! That tunnelmotor will be a nice model, I need to get a few SP units myself. Rick
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SP_Modeler
Chairman
SP never died in my world.
Posts: 389
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Post by SP_Modeler on Aug 28, 2010 17:02:38 GMT -5
No Worries Chris, I am still mullling its finish over in my head.. I've got plenty of "beat to hell" red and gray ones I'm considering doing as well. I just like the way the paint came off in chunks on some of the kodachrome units and some stayed virtually intact but filthy until the end. ;D Paul
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Post by diesel on Sept 2, 2010 7:03:03 GMT -5
paul, Nice job so far. I love GP60s too. I think once you start going on these things after a while you're never satisied with just the few added details. When I first started I added MU hoses/cables & airhose, air tanks & roof details & grabs and I at the club running it. Now when I read a thread here or see a good kitbash article I'm thinking... hhhmmmm... I'd like to try that!
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