VIA E8

[artur]

So I started a new build, this was suppose to be a CPR E8 but I decided to keep the VIA theme going  .
my plan was to keep the original Proto motor. but after I wired in the decoder I was disappointed with it's performance, it was much more noisy then what I like and it took a lot more voltage to get it going. not very smooth. I didn't want to spend a lot of time installing a new motor and playing with the drive shafts, so I will be using two CD rom motors. they are almost silent and super smooth it's a snug fit once the weight in installed no glue needed. Had to slice the top of the weight off to make some room for the decoder.





 

[dekon]

Looking good!

[artur]

I finally stripped the shell, about 4 applications of oven cleaner but very little elbow grease.

[dtinut]

Proto stuff strip very easily using 91% Isopropal Alcohol, which can be had at most drug stores for about 2 bucks a qt.
Most stuff today strips easily with the Al, stuff that doesn't is usually painted with some sort of Ink, vs paint.
Kato can be stripped using the Al in a bath with a dremel brush on a motor tool, which Brian Banna demonstrates in one of his videos, and I agree - it works really well.

Using other stuff can sometimes damage the plastic, as certain chemicals leach out polymers in the plastic leaving thm weak/brittle or crumbling apart.

Looks like a cool project - will be interesting to see how the drive works with 2 motors.
What decoder will you use to control it? Will it handle the draw of 2 motors?

Brian

[artur]

I have to try Isopropal Alcohol on the next one, the oven cleaner has been very effective so I haven't tried anything else. I'm using an older MRC 1634 sound decoder, I would like to upgrade what decoder would be best for the E8?
The current draw is less with both motors compared to the original Proto/Athearn motor, Ill also be wiring in a stay alive since I got rid of the fly wheels.

[dtinut]

Hmm, we'll I'd look at the TCS WOW decoders, as you can get them with the keep alive. Friends have good things to say about them. I am not into sound myself, and I have only 2 sound units. A paragon/BLI H10 2-8-0, and a P2K GP7 with a Loksound -

[artur]

Here is some more progress. you will notice that I glued in grab iron bolts into the existing hand rail holes which were way too big, now I just have to drill out new holes for all the grabs and handrails, bend some wire and I think its ready for the paint shop. Let me know if i'm missing anything. 
Does anyone have a picture of the roof detail, it's really difficult to find anything on the CP/VIA E8's.

[artur]

today I had some time to finish the detail work and spray the shell with primer. I added gutters over the cab doors which I just noticed in the pictures.







After I added lift rings in the rear the diaphragm would no longer fit. Its actually mounted too high on the model, I had to lower it about 3 or 4mm. The bottom of the door or floor should be just slightly higher the the grab irons.

[artur]

here are some pictures of the E8 painted in VIA colours. When I was masking and prepping for paint I noticed that the side rad grills are thinner on the model, because of that I almost screwed up my paint job luckily I caught it in time.

[CP_8530]

Nov 24, 2014 17:34:15 GMT -5 artur said:

here are some pictures of the E8 painted in VIA colours. When I was masking and prepping for paint I noticed that the side rad grills are thinner on the model, because of that I almost screwed up my paint job luckily I caught it in time.

Yep, that was one of the minor issues with the ol' P2K E8 tooling, which is probably around 20 years old now. Another that comes to mind is the roof profile is a bit too round, as are the front windows. One minor thing, CP removed the rear diaphrams from the rears of their E8's and their F's (in the 60's sometime I think?) leaving just the diaphragm housings. This carried over to VIA.

Nice progress on the model!

[artur]

Thanks for the info, is the diaphragm housings detail part available? would it be the same as the F-unit.

[CP_8530]

Same as the F-unit. I think Details West makes the part as part of their Athearn F upgrade kit, and American Ltd makes some diaphragms although I'm not sure if they make just that part.

I got lazy on my CP E8 build and just removed the movable part from the stock P2K diaphragm. I might have to revisit that in the future...

[artur]

I removed the diaphragm and added the Details West diaphragm housings to the existing part. The kit came with doors which are quite a bit different then whats on the E8 and I cant see what type of door was on the CP/VIA units, anyone know? I also started adding detail parts and decals to the shell.

[PVRR 2647]

Artur~

I like the idea of the two motors, it makes it more of a true e unit. Nice job so far. I am curious so see what you are going to use for the uncoupling levers? I am also more curious about the final disposition of the removed motor?

PVRR2647

[artur]

Nov 26, 2014 23:53:32 GMT -5 PVRR 2647 said:

Artur~

I like the idea of the two motors, it makes it more of a true e unit. Nice job so far. I am curious so see what you are going to use for the uncoupling levers? I am also more curious about the final disposition of the removed motor?

PVRR2647

I really like those motors they are very quite and smooth running. The loco starts moving on step 2, with the original motor it didn't start to move till step 8. You're welcome to have the motor, i can send you pictures of it. make me an offer.
I was going to purchase F-unit uncoupling levers but there is nothing out there that looks half descent, so I'm going to make them out of brass wire. 

[iomalley]

I always enjoy your project Artur, you're always breaking new ground!

If I could make a suggestion though, Miniatures by Eric make the proper rear headlight, as the one you used is a tad too big.

Its MBE L19 heres the link...

www.miniaturesbyeric.com/itm00137.htm

[artur]

Nov 27, 2014 11:17:05 GMT -5 iomalley said:

I always enjoy your project Artur, you're always breaking new ground!

If I could make a suggestion though, Miniatures by Eric make the proper rear headlight, as the one you used is a tad too big.

Its MBE L19 heres the link...

www.miniaturesbyeric.com/itm00137.htm

Thanks
you're right about the light, i was thinking of sheaving half of it. I would love to get my hands on the rapido rear light, I'm not sure about the Miniatures by Eric light I have to get a better look at it.

[iomalley]

Here it is mounted to the top of my RDC, I just bent down the peg into the roof. It's not 100% accurate for the RDC, but it is the MBE L19. It even has the conduit coming out of the side.

[artur]

After an hour of bending wire for the uncoupling levers here are the results, I'm happy with it.

[icghogger]

Nice Work, Artur!!