Project cheap BB GP40-2!

[pacbelt]

.... I guess this should go here!!
I "rescued" an Athearn BB GP40-2 on evilBay for $24.00...
This was a clean candidate for an overhaul and light detailing.....
THEN I FOUND THIS FORUM!!!

First step was repowering. I had an older Mashima can motor conversion, from an old GP35. Most know, the "correct" motor for the Athearn -2's, is a shorter, squatter motor!
I just had to "make it all fit"!!

First step scared people! I ground down the ends of the motor can, to clear the body mount tabs...
Stopping often, to not overheat the motor!

Then, I wanted the whole thing to sit lower in the frame, for room for DCC decoder, TCS Keep-Alive (gotta see it to believe it!!), and a decent sized speaker...
SO, I ground the CRAP out of the frame!!
[Hopefully, not taking too much weight out!!!]

THEN, a lot of test fitting, more grinding, and finally settling the motor in with RTV silicone. The heavy paper of course, to ensure flywheel clearance!

THEN, the trucks...
(This old trick I picked up is good for ALL Athearn BB diesels, DCC or not!)

I ground the ends of the metal plates, purely aesthetic, to make them less obvious. Then, ground rough pads, on each plate, grinding half of a brass rivet also. Applied some flux (necessary for steel), and soldered a power lead to each plate, red +, and black -.
NO frame ground here!!

Then, painted the whole thing Floquil Grimy Black...
I know my old fart methods may look unorthodox, but it works pretty well!!

..... more to come!!!!

[pacbelt]

Some of you already know....
This is how this forum has corrupted me so far!!!!

And there's more stuff coming!!!
Still gonna keep this under $100 (minus the sound decoder - unless I hijack it from an older loco!!)

Thanks!!

[Randy Earle]

May 4, 2013 4:43:02 GMT -5 pacbelt said:

Some of you already know....
This is how this forum has corrupted me so far!!!!

And there's more stuff coming!!!
Still gonna keep this under $100 (minus the sound decoder - unless I hijack it from an older loco!!)

Thanks!!

Wait til you look and find you have enough to fill an American Tourister bag. lol

[wpdivwldr]

Doing the same as you packb, looks like you on a roll. How does it operate with the mods ?

[pacbelt]

May 4, 2013 13:03:39 GMT -5 Randy Earle said:

May 4, 2013 4:43:02 GMT -5 pacbelt said:

Some of you already know....
This is how this forum has corrupted me so far!!!!

And there's more stuff coming!!!
Still gonna keep this under $100 (minus the sound decoder - unless I hijack it from an older loco!!)

Thanks!!

Wait til you look and find you have enough to fill an American Tourister bag. lol

Give me time!!!!!
I JUST found this forum!!

[pacbelt]

How does it OPERATE??

Well, its not done.....
But in a test run, WAY quieter and smoother than stock!!

Oh, and I also filed the teeth of the gears in the trucks! Then sanded the outsides with 320 grit sandpaper.

[pacbelt]

The whole thing's so tight, I had to cement the neg. wire to the front of the motor. At least I knowing won't bind, or hit the flywheel...


(Did I mention my work gets really sloppy, before it gets better!)
I also ground down (CAREFULLY) the inside of the body, for some more clearance. It all fits like it was made to fit!!

[pacbelt]

My first detail (in 34 years - really!!), installed, in typical unorthodox fashion!! The top fan grab iron will be body colored, so it went on first. Held in position with wood scraps...

This is after the color coat... This may work!!

[Since 1975, I've developed detailing skills in structures, but gave actually never thought of doing a locomotive, until I saw this forum!!!]

[pacbelt]

Here's a look, after all the color has been sprayed, to give you an idea what the Pacific Belt RR looks like!!

[antlorch]

Your on the right path, since you have seen Brian Banna's video's if you can't remember how to do something just refer back to them when you need to.

[pacbelt]

He has quite a set of videos!! I'll be referencing them a LOT!!

[pacbelt]

ON TO THE CAB - I'm not doing a whole lot (yet!). I got a D.A. prime A/C unit, and A-Line brass sunshades. Because details were an afterthought, I had to carefully scrape away some paint!!
I'm getting WW wipers, as soon as I figure out which is better, and easier to install (one piece!).

Because I read the directions (!!), I learned that one part of the extra molding flash, was a TEMPLATE, with two holes drilled in it!!

The holes were EASY!!!!

And... here's my humble results... I love this stuff!! Its making this old amateur almost look like an expert!!

[tornado64]

going good !! striking paint scheme the colours are opposites on the colour wheel therefore will fight against each other making for an exceptionaly vibrant scheme , with good lettering it should be a superb scheme !!

[pacbelt]

NEXT: those silly half air tanks!!!
I cut them off (a rail nipper, that I only use for plastic), works great. Then, I levelled it with an X-Acto knife, and sanded smooth.
(THANKS Brian, for that tip!!!)
D.A. makes a very nice air tank kit!

On the Conductor's Side, I had to build up the underside, to mount the tank. I used 3 layers of .030 styrene... I'll clean that up, after the cement hardens...

Here's where GOOD prototype photos help! YES, its a GP38-2, and I'm doing a GP40-2... However, I feel it makes a great reference for air tank plumbing!!
I'm not building a show winner, just a better lookin loco!

*****

(Side note... Ever break off those mounting lugs on your BB GP38/40/50??? If you salvage that steel power pickup bar, that ran along the top of the stock motor to the trucks, and cut about a 1/2 - 3/4" strip...
You can cement it (with strong ACC) to the inside of the broken latch. After it dries completely, (5 to10 hrs) sand or file it smooth..... .... it ends up better than new!!!


[AND, I will NEVER superdetail a locomotive AFTER painting it again!!! ]

[pacbelt]

....... Thank you, Tornado64!! It's new. My paint scheme, since 1975, was Dark Blue/Dark Red. I felt more vibrant was overdue!!

[pacbelt]

My first (kinda weak) attempt at grab irons... I used Tichy brass wire grab irons it was a VERY GOOD THING, that I bought a 10-pak of #80 drill bits...
I broke 3 of them, before I got the technique down!!!
My make shift grab painting jig!!
Also showing my next step, the air tanks. I scraped the mold seams with a fresh X-Acto knife, then sanded smooth with 600 grit sandpaper.

I then painted the tanks Grimy Black, and let them dry for another day!!

[tornado64]

going good matey !! the sponge is a good idea but i find blu tak a more versatile tool for modelling i use it for holding small parts whilst painting often on a pencil so they are easy to move about , i use it to hold a stick in loco bodies so i can move them around whilst painting , a small blob on a cocktail stick is helpfull when supergluing small parts , it can be used for masking "soft" edges when masking for weathering ...... i guess what i'm trying to say is " my modelling box is incomplete without blu tak !!"

[catt]

To help your # 80 drill bits live a longer productive life I have found that the best plan is to (a) leave only enough drill bit exposed to drill through what ever you are drilling ,and (b) let the drill bit do the work.It may take longer to drill the hole but you will find you use a lot less drill bits..

By the way your GP40-2 is looking good.

[pacbelt]

Thank you Gentlemen!!
I'm gonna have to find an equivalent to blu goo! Sounds useful!

catt, I need to learn patience!! My wallet depends on it!! I will try getting the bit farther into the pin vise. Thanx!!

[pacbelt]

.... blu tak.