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Post by upguy1981 on Dec 22, 2012 21:28:40 GMT -5
Hey guys I am going to use this athren blue box gp35 as my first build I have installed dcc and sound in locomotives before but never went any farther then that. I would like to find out how far I should go on my first build and where I can get the parts that I need for it at. Thanks for any help you guys can give me. I want to take it to the next step
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Post by diesel on Dec 23, 2012 0:15:31 GMT -5
Hey there upguy! This is an ok model to start if you are ok with these wide body Athearn models. (which is what you are showing in the pic) I use them for my club road. Most people who detail locos dislike these because these wide body units are very out of proportion, many times the grilles are wrong and the door arrangement seems odd, although I've never counted it out. As a result they can seem ugly or odd looking once you spend more time with something more correct.
If you're ok with that, then at most I would do things like grab irons, lift rings, drill out the fans and replace with either the Details Associates parts or use the Cannon fans if your budget allows. Many would say it's a waste on such a model. On the pilot add mu/air hoses, uncoupler bar and maybe practice scratchbuilding a coupler pocket, although that's a tedious job. You could put a nicer horn & bell on and maybe some underframe details like traction motor cables and air filters ect.
REMEMBER; You can't really 'Cannonize' this type of thing because everything is made for the properly proportioned stuff, so short hood, dust bin cover or long hood end will all be too narrow for this.
So, this is good to learn on, but don't spend a lot of money doing it. You might pick details by personal visual importance or by seeing how much of a challenge a certain task is.
If you do want to add mu hoses I thought of a new approach to this that will work well with this kind of model. If you want to try it I wrote it out below.
-Always try to look at pics of the prototype when adding any detail for the best results- (which is something I constantly remind myself of) BUT, look at the pilot of a GP35. The hose arrangement is different than like on a 38 or 40 ect. But for the bracketed part:
1. Slice off only the molded on nubs from the loco shell located under the bracket. These nubs or whatever you call them indicate where the mu hoses would be. 2. On the Details West hose casting, cut off/file down the bracket leaving only the hoses. Be careful not to separate the hoses, they're a pain individually. Try to leave a little bit of the pin in the back of the casting. This will give you holding strength to the pilot and will force you to learn to measure where to put a pretty small hole with not much room for mistakes. 3. Glue the Details West casting under the molded bracket with CA.
AND WHY? I noticed that the plastic bracket on the plastic shell looks better than the bracket on the casting. It's the hoses themselves that have the nice hose fittings and plug ends that look nice. If you do this one I hope you have fun with it!
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Post by upguy1981 on Dec 23, 2012 7:03:36 GMT -5
Thanks I will look and see how much the parts are
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Post by upguy1981 on Dec 23, 2012 11:17:04 GMT -5
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Post by diesel on Dec 27, 2012 0:26:14 GMT -5
Nice! There is the issue that the unit you selected does not have dynamic breaks and your model does. The detail parts you need for this shouldn't come to more than $30. If you want to repower and get the replacement wheels you can spend $35-60 or more depending on what you get.
By the way, (as you might already know) the Blue Box SD40-2 you have in the backround is something that is still being kitbashed into nice models by everyone from beginners up to those who have built many locos.
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Post by upguy1981 on Dec 28, 2012 21:24:12 GMT -5
Yes the sd40-2 I think will be my next project. Here is a pic of the shell all striped of paint next I will be working on removing the dynamic brakes
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Post by upguy1981 on Dec 28, 2012 22:00:08 GMT -5
And here it is with the dynamic brakes removed now just a little body work to do to it.
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Post by diesel on Dec 29, 2012 16:21:44 GMT -5
Nice, I've never thought of doing that! lol I think I will, I have 4 of these I'm doing for club. I will do one like this! wow.
If you have any tyco shells or the like around I would pick similar fixtures and try removing them without damaging parts you want to keep. As you see in the above (first time for everything) this can be challenging. I think in this situation I would have used my dremel on low with the drum sander for the sides and the cone shaped stone for the fan. Then do cleanup with hobby knifes & sandpaper. You can't take all the old details of with just the rotory tool.
You have to be very careful with those so if you've never used one; the tool can jump and skip and ruin your model or catch you on the hand/arm ect. (NOT something you want to happen) Take some time and practice that on scrap shells just to get the feeling of the tool if you want to use one.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2012 18:56:41 GMT -5
diesel, I commend you for teh help you are giving upguy. Very sound and detailed.
upguy. I think you picked a perfect model to start on and practice. We all have to start somewhere. My first experience with prototype modeling was tht very same model except I did it in Santa Fe Warbonnet. Then someone told me about the hood beiong an extra scale 15" to wide.
The parts you buggered up while cleaning off the DB hatch can be replaced with Cannon & Co. parts. The doors though will be a challenge to fix. Keep at it though and ask whatever you want. We are all here to assist and help you have an enjoyable experience so that you will stay with it.
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Post by upguy1981 on Dec 29, 2012 21:34:46 GMT -5
Yes I have placed a order with them this is my very first build like this. It is a chalange some times but I will get there
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Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2012 22:03:06 GMT -5
What you can do next time to help from touching details you do nto want to hurt. Use masking tape and put it over the details you want to preserve. The thickness of the tape will take at least one or two hits before cutting through tot eh detail depending of course on how hard you press on the tool.
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spike
Chairman
They say I can't be Spike anymore, so Mr. Burns it is!
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Post by spike on Dec 29, 2012 22:08:59 GMT -5
If upguy goes on Ebay or calls A-Line, he would be able to get a dimensionally correct Rail Power Products GP35 shell for a reasonable price. I have one which I have detailed with a Cannon high hood. The chassis came from an Athearn GP35 which I picked up for about $10-15 at a show.
One of the primary questions which was asked was, "How far to I take the detailing?" That is a deep subject. Some guys here like the challenge of detailing some engine right down to the finest detail, especially if the prototype was some exotic locomotive. The costs of doing this can be quite high. I don't recommend this here, since the GP35 was common, and it is your first model. There is quite a learning curve. Trust me, you will make mistakes. Some of my first paint jobs had the finish of sand paper.
Some people, like me are developing layouts. I have been building up a roster of engines since high school. The intent is to run these engines. They will get beaten up, so I do the basics, so too many parts don't get broken. Plows, horns, antennas, lift rings, pin lifters, Ditch lights, etc. Most of my fleet is Athearn or Athearn chassis with Rail Power bodies, like the GP35 described above. The handrails are stock. I custom bend brass wire for railings if the stock ones can't be used, but still use rest of the stock handrail kits. I have also kept the original motors, and had good luck. We had a good thread on tuning up Athearn chassis.
Most of all, just have fun! Don't think that you have to spend hundreds to have a nice engine. Look at some of the great results in our "Cheap Builds" section.
You might get some pointers if you join a club. It must be a good club. I was in one when I first started college. That was when I got my airbrush, and ended up with the sandpaper finish. The guys ridiculed me, but none gave me any pointers. I am now in a club which is much more supportive. We have some good modelers, who will share their talents, such as Jay (Modelmaker51).
Keep posting your progress here. This is a very friendly forum, as you can see from the encouragement of the posts above.
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Post by upguy1981 on Dec 30, 2012 8:18:00 GMT -5
I went to railpower products web page this morning they have a lot of nice stuff might be putting in a order with them the have the shell with out the dynamic brakes.
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Post by upguy1981 on Jan 4, 2013 13:29:40 GMT -5
Have been sick the last week so not much of anything with the trains have been done but some of my parts have come in so as soon as I feeling better I will get back to working on this locomotive
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Post by upguy1981 on Jan 20, 2013 18:31:19 GMT -5
Ok I know it has been a while sence I have posted on this I have been in bed sick. feeling better now decided to get back to work on this so here is what I have done so far got the side frams painted with a weathered black Also started to cut the holes for the cannon and company fans
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Post by upguy1981 on Jan 28, 2013 22:08:36 GMT -5
Ok guys I am lost here by looking at the prototipe the fan in the middle of the other two fans looks to be smaller but I ordered the fans from cannon and company but they are all the same size is there something I missing here if any one can help me please let me know thanks
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Post by sd45longhoodfoward on Jan 29, 2013 13:25:27 GMT -5
this hobby is like bug you will catch it when exposed to it but there is no cure for it !!!!enjoy!!
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Post by upguy1981 on Jan 29, 2013 13:58:57 GMT -5
I have decided that this shell is not going to work so I will be placing a order with rail power products for the right shell
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Post by antlorch on Jan 29, 2013 15:22:18 GMT -5
Now your thinking. Once you have the railpower shell in ur hands (though not 100% accurate) and compare it to your Athearn you are going to be glad your got the new shell.
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Post by diesel on Feb 5, 2013 20:57:52 GMT -5
hey there upguy,
well hopefully you can get the version you need instead of hacking on the dynamics like that. I'd keep the old shell just to practice cutting off only what you want.
-anyway, see if you can save the fans you already have. the smaller fans are sold separately. do you have a pin vice & bits from 60 down to #78 or 80? you'll need that for everything from lift rings to mu hoses and then some...
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