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Post by upguy1981 on Feb 5, 2013 21:04:54 GMT -5
Yes I bought the set of drill bits I did not have the fans in yet so I was able to save them. That is a good idea I will keep the shell and just use it to learn off of. thanks
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Post by upguy1981 on Feb 5, 2013 21:05:24 GMT -5
Yes I bought the set of drill bits I did not have the fans in yet so I was able to save them. That is a good idea I will keep the shell and just use it to learn off of. thanks
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Post by CP_8530 on Feb 15, 2013 2:07:59 GMT -5
I find old Athearn shells are also good for paint practice (either trying new techniques, or testing how a custom-mixed colour would look).
The RPP shell, while a bit rough around the edges, is still much nicer than the widebody Athearn GP35. I have one around that has joined my "paint practice fleet".
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Post by upguy1981 on Feb 27, 2013 18:58:27 GMT -5
Ok guys I need some help I got my rail power shell in to day but it doese not fit on the shell the copler box seems to be the problem is there some modifing you have to do to the shells or am I missing something. thanks for all the help.
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liengineerbob
Chairman
Sitting at my workbench trying to figure out what to do next!
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Post by liengineerbob on Feb 27, 2013 19:42:42 GMT -5
If you are using the old Blue box frame (and it looks like you are), you will need to remove the coupler boxes (or at least trim them back) as the RPP shell does not have the "gap" that the coupler box slid into on the Athearn body shell. Notice your RPP shell is closed off more realistically then the Athearn shell under the buffer plate. Your better off removing them and body mounting the couplers.
You will also need to remove all of the sections of the frame that "sticks up"....if you can follow what I am describing. Think of the letter "L".......you will want to remove the portion sticking up so all you have is a _. You basically need a smooth surface for the body shell to sit on the Athearn frame. It's a little tricky to trim around the bolsters, but you don't want to remove those. And the light bracket has to go as well. The RPP body is scale width, the Athearn shell is wider in order to fir the early can motors when it first was released in the early 1970's.
Access to a milling machine in the easiest way to do it, but I have done them in the past with a motor tool and a cut off wheel, or in a worse case scenario, a large mill or bastard file and a belt sander and grinder.
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Post by upguy1981 on Feb 27, 2013 20:32:00 GMT -5
Well I don't have a mill but I do have a motor tool and a brand new bench sander so I will have to make them work
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liengineerbob
Chairman
Sitting at my workbench trying to figure out what to do next!
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Post by liengineerbob on Mar 4, 2013 18:35:17 GMT -5
Any progress on that frame?? If you mess it up I am pretty sure you can still get the old RPP frame that fits with no modifications from PPW-Aline.....I forgot to mention that last time.
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Post by upguy1981 on Mar 4, 2013 20:04:17 GMT -5
I ordered the new frame from rpp just waiting on it to come in
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liengineerbob
Chairman
Sitting at my workbench trying to figure out what to do next!
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Post by liengineerbob on Mar 5, 2013 19:33:55 GMT -5
Smart decision you made there!!!
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Post by 3800 on May 4, 2013 18:03:22 GMT -5
Hi up-
Getting a fresh shell, eh? don't forget to order your glazing in this order or you'll have to reorder it at another $10- shipping cost! No worries though if you didn't order it b/c it's one of the last details you will have to attend to, by then you may already have another order to place.
Do you have a strategy or method in mind or on paper in the construction of your model? If you don't, I'd strongly advise you to create a plan, otherwise the experience will likely be a painful and costly ordeal b/c you'll find that some of the work you had already completed should have been done later in the project (or vice versa). I mention this b/c you could turn an otherwise good day into a bad day on one erroneous detail.
As you already probably know, most non railroad related model kits come with an instruction sheet... rail model kits do not. I say this b/c starting with a fresh shell kinda puts you into the realm of modeling an undecorated kit, just something to keep in mind.
Please do share with us your 'plan of attack' in assembling this model, the input/feedback you receive will be priceless I guarantee you!
Take care there
-Rob
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pacbelt
Chairman
Building Layout #11!! ;)
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Post by pacbelt on May 4, 2013 20:08:33 GMT -5
Wow! Its been "enlightening" to see this go quickly from a "freshen up" an old loco thing, to a full blown build!!!
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Post by upguy1981 on Sept 20, 2015 8:19:00 GMT -5
Well I started back on this build after a long time off. Frame is in the mill to take off the coupler pockets
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Post by upguy1981 on Sept 20, 2015 8:21:48 GMT -5
Well back to the drawing board the frame broke for some reason went on rail powers site and the do not have this frame any more so I am biding on two Athearn frames on eBay we will see what happens
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pacbelt
Chairman
Building Layout #11!! ;)
Posts: 682
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Post by pacbelt on Sept 20, 2015 10:25:57 GMT -5
OUCH!!!
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fr8kar
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Little man raise the cotton, beer joints get the money
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Post by fr8kar on Sept 20, 2015 19:01:23 GMT -5
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gevo
Trainmaster
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Post by gevo on Sept 20, 2015 19:53:13 GMT -5
Rch no gp35 frame listed
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pacbelt
Chairman
Building Layout #11!! ;)
Posts: 682
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Post by pacbelt on Sept 21, 2015 4:46:29 GMT -5
They stopped making it!! Well, a Proto 2000, GP30 frame would work, and doesn't need major trimming.... They pop up on EvilBay from time to time. OR, get another ATHEARN frame, but be careful not to put TOO much pressure on the cutter, and not get the frame TOO hot.
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Post by tamaman on Sept 21, 2015 10:11:28 GMT -5
Ya, did that once as well. Make sure the part you are milling is in the vice good and solid.
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