Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 28, 2012 13:42:50 GMT -5
dieseldetailer.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=ele&action=display&thread=10383This was were I was reading the information about changing motors. From experience, I just removed the BB motor, milled the frame (more like dug a trench) until there was sufficient length for the Kato motor and then mounted the Kato on a plasticard board that held it in place. To be honest next time I might just take the motor out of the plastic mounting frame it comes in and mount it lower because I found two problems. First the black mounting frame that holds it into the Kato frames is a little to wide for BB loco's and secondly it sits pretty high leaving not much room for the light board or decoder. Next time I intend to mill out less and mount it lower so that I can fit a Tsunami decoder and speaker.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 28, 2012 14:19:18 GMT -5
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d10ng
Road Foreman
Modelling the CSS&SB and NICTD.
Posts: 93
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Post by d10ng on May 28, 2012 15:36:48 GMT -5
Thanks for the info and the links. Although I find that finding kato motors this side of the atlantic can be quite difficult and expensive. I have thought about mashima's, but have been looking through some bachmann uk motors, but then most use cardan shafts, and as these BBs I have are pre RTR range. Then I have the expense of fitting new wheelsets as these have sintered iron wheels still.
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Post by 071 on May 28, 2012 16:39:13 GMT -5
I've ordered kato motors directly from Kato to Ireland and their shipping is only $12, which is pretty good. I think they offer a great option overall and seem pretty interchangeable with the Athearn unit.
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d10ng
Road Foreman
Modelling the CSS&SB and NICTD.
Posts: 93
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Post by d10ng on May 29, 2012 2:31:45 GMT -5
071 Thanks for the idea I've looked at their US website, did you buy them without flywheels? If so did you fit the athearn flywheels to the kato shafts or did you have to buy seperate flywheels?
Thanks Dave
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Post by santafemikie on May 29, 2012 10:47:35 GMT -5
Dave, The Athearn RTR hex drives slip right into the Kato flywheels. If that's what you have, my recommendation would be to buy the whole motor assembly with the motor mounts already installed #956010. The Kato motors have a 2.0MM shaft. The Athearn flywheels are larger and won't fit without adapter sleeves. I countersink the Athearn mounting holes on the bottom of the frame and use Kato #900080 screws to mount them. The frame will have to be ground or milled so the motor fits where it belongs.
Cheers, Mike
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d10ng
Road Foreman
Modelling the CSS&SB and NICTD.
Posts: 93
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Post by d10ng on May 29, 2012 11:51:41 GMT -5
Thanks Mike, In the UK kato locos tend to command a high price and ebay is the best place to get them. However as 071 mentioned above kato sell their motors as spares, but on checking their website they only sell the motor and not the flywheels. That was the reason behind my question.
This conversion is a bluebox GP50 so pre RTR, so I dont think its got the hex drive. I know that I can get flywheels from PPW-Aline.
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Post by santafemikie on May 29, 2012 15:02:08 GMT -5
Hi Dave,
Actually, you need to look at a listing for either GP-35. You will find the listing for the part number I gave you above. It even has a picture. If you want a motor with the flywheels and no motor mounts, look under SD-40-2 (original). You will find a #956030 along with a picture. Many of their parts are listed for the models they fit. The general list is not nearly their whole catalog of parts. As of today, both are available to order. I hope this helps.
Cheers, Mike
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d10ng
Road Foreman
Modelling the CSS&SB and NICTD.
Posts: 93
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Post by d10ng on May 29, 2012 16:38:18 GMT -5
Mike Thanks for pointing me in the right direction I had failed to scroll down the page as they list the motor without flywheels at the top and I shamefully presumed...
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Post by santafemikie on May 29, 2012 19:33:22 GMT -5
Hi Dave,
The A-line Mashima repower sets are top of the line. The motor shafts are also 2.0MM and they have the proper drive universals for the blue boxes in the flywheels already. Good luck whatever you choose.
Later, Mike
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d10ng
Road Foreman
Modelling the CSS&SB and NICTD.
Posts: 93
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Post by d10ng on May 30, 2012 7:37:12 GMT -5
I've read during recent research that swapping out the old bb driveline for the current hex driveline is a fairly easy swap. However I have noticed that there's NWSL flywheels/connectors and remotoring too.
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d10ng
Road Foreman
Modelling the CSS&SB and NICTD.
Posts: 93
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Post by d10ng on May 31, 2012 14:04:25 GMT -5
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railroadjeep
Road Foreman
Road Foreman of Hostlers
Posts: 61
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Post by railroadjeep on May 31, 2012 14:27:52 GMT -5
I would think the Details West #155 is a good match, all you'd need to do is notch it for 3rd rail clearnace like Conrail/NS did.
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d10ng
Road Foreman
Modelling the CSS&SB and NICTD.
Posts: 93
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Post by d10ng on Jun 2, 2012 14:21:08 GMT -5
modelmaker, Thanks for the tip, I do look for the cheaper option if its viable as being the wrong side of the pond getting stung with high shipping and duty takes its toll somethimes. Anything under $28 tends to turn up without the authorities demanding their import duties.
Shame that Atlas are out of stock. There's a good ebay stockist with them for an extra few dollars though.
So these Atlas are just kato clones with hex flywheel connectors? so I still need to ditch the BB gp50 driveline for some dog bones...
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