Working with Decals

[torikoos]

Hi all,

I've reached the stage on one of my projects to start applying decals. I have read several approaches, some decal after the paint job has been completed, and then spray over a layer of dullcote etc.

The Microscale decals advise to first add a layer of gloss before decals are added, after which another coat of varnish (dull or gloss to taste I guess) to seal it all in.

Is that layer of gloss (before applying decals) really needed, or have you had good results omitting this step? (I've not used wet decals for a while, the last couple times were dry transfers...).

Any advise is very welcome.

Cheers, Koos

[danraitz]

Jan 1, 2012 14:48:34 GMT -5 torikoos said:

Is that layer of gloss (before applying decals) really needed, or have you had good results omitting this step?

Koos,

It depends on what you used for your main color. It it is allready gloss, then no you do not need to apply a clear gloss coat. But, if it is not, then I would reccomend adding that gloss coat. Wet decals go down the best on a glossy surface and adding an extra thin coat of paint will not adversly effect how you paint job will come out or look. Notice I said a "thin" coat you don't need to apply a whole lot of clear for decaling, just enough to give you a glossy area.

[Deleted]

I find that if I use decal setting solutions such as Micro Sol and Micro Set then I have problems on any surface.

[torikoos]

Jan 1, 2012 18:32:59 GMT -5 @thesd80macbeast said:

I find that if I use decal setting solutions such as Micro Sol and Micro Set then I have problems on any surface.

Sorry, is that a typo? Or does using those, really cause a problem? If so, that's the first time I hear that, and would love to know a little more about your problems with using those?

Cheers, Koos

[Deleted]

Sorry, that is indeed typo, my apologies. I type to fast and forget to check before post in haste sometimes.

Never had a problem on any surface so long as I use decal settign solutions.

[bikingmike]

Applying decals over any matt finish is just asking for trouble.

The smoother the finish the decals are going on to the less likely you are to get silvering,which is caused by air being trapped under the decal.

You can use matt paint but you will need to put a gloss coat over the top first.

My procdure for decalling is this: if the paint is gloss, I buff it to remove any grainy bits which will also improve the gloss.

If it's a matt finish I buff it first which will give it a nice satin finish, then I spray a gloss coat over the top of that.

Johnsons Klear or Future floor polishes are excellent as a clear coat; they dry fast and are durable. Testors loss coate is also good.

Once I've given the gloss coat a light buff it's time fot the decals.

I always use a decal setting solution which will snug the decal into the panels.

So in short,always apply decals over a glossy smooth surface, and use setting solutions.

It all sounds bit long winded,but the are no real short cuts.

HTH

Mike A

[torikoos]

Thanks Mike, how do you proceed to 'buff' the paint, do you use a cloth or paper towel?

Koos

[zakc]

I agree with bikeingmike, after many years of armor modeling before I started with locomotives I have found that everything he said too be right on the money except I have never found the need to buff the area but it sounds like it is a good idea

[dmfoamer]

I have always used a glossy finish with no problems but, I use Solvaset from Walthers. I dilute it down just a touch because, It can "burn"(damage) the decal. sh And usually put a dull coat on to finish but, have noticed more and more paint jobs shiny on locos. Does the floor wax need to be thinned out and if so, with what?


Frank Lovejoy

[m a y o r 79]

I never used to use gloss coat before decaling, but looking back i can definately notice some silveringnon my older models. Gloss coating first makes decal application easier, but ive found that it takes a little longer for them to set ( dry) between microset and microsol applications. The end results are much nicer looking though.

[icghogger]

Frank, the Future Floor Finish is an acrylic product, so treat it the same as your acrylic paints.

[bikingmike]

Jan 4, 2012 12:29:08 GMT -5 torikoos said:

Thanks Mike, how do you proceed to 'buff' the paint, do you use a cloth or paper towel?

Koos

For polishing I use MasterCasters sanders; these are the dog's danglies for cleaning up seams as well as polishing surfaces. You can even polish clear transparancies with them.

I'm on my second set now, and can't recommend them highly enough.

www.mastercasters.co.uk/5.html

As far as floor polish goes, I use a product called Vectra that I get from a commercial cleaning suppliers. It has the viscosity of thinned down milk, so can be sprayed without further thinning.

Cheers from NZ

Mike A