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Post by jshellha on Nov 25, 2008 9:14:17 GMT -5
I have a newly acquired Overland Models Brass SD60M locomotive (thanks eBay). In looking it over however, I am somewhat stymied by how to prepare and install window glass in the cab. I have heard about using coverslips of which I have a supply but how does one accurately cut it to the size needed? I don't want to mess this one up and I would be very appreciative of any ideas.
Thanks,
Jim Shellhaas
jshellha
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Post by icghogger on Nov 25, 2008 9:47:18 GMT -5
Jim, I use a diamond-tipped scriber. Got it at the same place I got the cover slips (it is used to write on glass slides). I also use a straight edge (with a non-slip pad on the back) to guide the scriber. Patience pays here, not too much pressure, letting the scriber scratch the glass. With cover slip scribed, put thin piece of plastic sheet under the cover slip at the scribe line and press down lightly. Glass will snap clean at the scribe line with very little effort. Can't recall exactly where, but I think I got the cover slips and scriber at Edmund Scientific Lab supply.
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Post by jshellha on Nov 25, 2008 10:59:08 GMT -5
Thanks Robert, I appreciate your comments. I think I can locate a scriber in one of the lab drawers but I think they were tossed in there because they don't work well. I will investigate Edmund Scientific. How did you "glue" the coverslips into the cab. There is a Microscale product whose name escapes me right now that I have used for Cannon cabs but I don't know if it would work with glass-brass contact. I guess I can always experiment a bit.
Jim
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Post by icghogger on Nov 25, 2008 12:35:46 GMT -5
Jim, I use Watch Crystal cement (Micro-Mark and others) for all metal to glass contact. It has a hypo needle for a tip and is easy to control. It dries clear and cleans up with rubbing alcohol.
I have made my own "long-nosed" applicators for other liquid glues and solvents from hypo tubing I got from Small Parts. Just don't try to suck the glue or solvent into the tube with your mouth (bad experience). Let capillary action do the work.....
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Post by jshellha on Nov 25, 2008 13:16:06 GMT -5
Bob thanks for the "heads up" on watch crystal. I have never heard of it but I get a MicroMark catalog about every month it seems. Ditto for Smalll Parts. I "googled" it and was amazed at what one can get! I had never heard of it but I assure you the site is now bookmarked for me.
Thanks for all of your suggestions and help.
Jim
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Post by e86900 on Nov 25, 2008 21:29:32 GMT -5
I have 13 Overland Southern Railway Baywindow cabs in need of windows. My thought is to use Evergreen clear plastic cut to shape, but I'm not sure what to use to glue them in place. Overland told me to use Microscale kristal kleer. I've not tried it yet. I'm wondering what would do the best gluing clear plastic to brass, kristal kleer or the watch crystal glue from Micro-mark.
Eddie
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Post by jshellha on Nov 25, 2008 21:58:15 GMT -5
I have used MicroScale's Krystal Klear (I could not recall the name earlier). It works well on plastic to plastic and I have been told glass to plastic but have no experience in that venue. The one caution that I might warn you against is using a tad too much at the edges. It will dry clear in areas where it is thin. If it collects or "bunches up" at the plastic-plastic or glass-plastic joint, you may get a "glob" of slightly off white residue that is quite noticeable. Use caution and do NOT over use this product.
Jim
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dtinut
Chairman
Modeling the DT&I of the 60's & 70's
Posts: 661
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Post by dtinut on Nov 26, 2008 11:54:18 GMT -5
You can use Future Floor Polish also to glue in the windows, as it will dry clear as well.
I have also used Gloss Finish from Testors to glue in jewls and other things where I did not want any discoloration.
Regards,
Brian
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