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Post by onequiknova on Nov 24, 2008 16:22:53 GMT -5
For those who feel the Kato handrails are a bit of an eye sore, and the fact that Smokey Valley stancions will be increasingly harder to find, here is what I did on a couple of SP engines I did. I cut the handrails off flush to the Kato stanchions and cored the Kato stanchions for .015 brass wire. I clamp an individual stanchoin into my hobby vice horizontaly, center punch it with a needle, then drill it out with a pin vice. Once you get the hang of it you can do enough for one loco in about 20 mins. One thing I like about this method is you still get the flexibility of the plastic stanchions, so you don't have to worry about breaking anything while handleing the unit. John. SP SD40R  SP SD40M-2  |
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Post by hotshot3305 on Nov 24, 2008 17:03:54 GMT -5
For those who feel the Kato handrails are a bit of an eye sore, and the fact that Smokey Valley stancions will be increasingly harder to find, here is what I did on a couple of SP engines I did. I cut the handrails off flush to the Kato stanchions and cored the Kato stanchions for .015 brass wire. I clamp an individual stanchoin into my hobby vice horizontaly, center punch it with a needle, then drill it out with a pin vice. Once you get the hang of it you can do enough for one loco in about 20 mins. One thing I like about this method is you still get the flexibility of the plastic stanchions, so you don't have to worry about breaking anything while handleing the unit. John. John, I've been doing the same thing to the last few Kato models that I've built. The .015 handrails really look good and as you say, you still get the flexability of the plastic stantions. Here's a Southern unit that I did this way. Bob  |
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Post by stevewoodward on Nov 26, 2008 17:34:42 GMT -5
What do you guys do to get the bends in the wire just right? Use a template or just wing it? I'd like to give this method a try...
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Post by onequiknova on Nov 27, 2008 0:11:55 GMT -5
I just use pictures as a guide.
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walong
Probationary Member
Posts: 10
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Post by walong on Jan 1, 2009 2:00:42 GMT -5
How well does the .015" brass wire hold up? I use the phosphor bronze wire, since it seems a bit more durable to me.
What do you use for the safety chain? And how well do the plastic stanchions take paint?
Thanks,
Ed
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Post by antlorch on Jan 1, 2009 12:26:39 GMT -5
I have never used the Kato stanchions with the wire but I have used the Smokey Valley stanchions with the .015" wire and it has held up for 10 years on my SD40-2 with no problem at all..If they get bent I just bend them back into place,no problem at all.
For the safety chain A-line makes some,I was the smallest they offer,i am not sure if anyone else offers anything closer to scale...
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Post by torikoos on Jun 19, 2010 9:46:05 GMT -5
great job I like it! Just curious though, Smokey Valley increasingly harder to find? Are they (going) out of business? Who else makes good brass stanchion castings?
Thanks!
Koos
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Post by m a y o r 79 on Jun 19, 2010 10:24:26 GMT -5
Those look great. I need to do that for my SDL39's but I've been hesitant to start it. I've got a ton of Atlas stanchions but never started the project. What size bit did you use to drill them out?
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Post by cnwidecabnut on Jun 19, 2010 16:18:37 GMT -5
Railflyer Model Prototypes has stanchions being tooled at this moment. These will be ABS plastic (to which paint adheres to readily) and are cored for Ø0.015 wire. Photo-etched add on details are included to make these the most accurate EMD stanchions to date. These should be available in a month or two and are available directly from Railflyer. Pre-orders will receive a discount. Can't wait to get mine in.
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Post by cnwidecabnut on Jun 19, 2010 19:51:09 GMT -5
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Post by sd45longhoodfoward on Jul 16, 2010 19:58:22 GMT -5
wow thanks for the info guys i just bought an an sd 90 in evil bay got for good$ $15 with ppw drive train the hand rails are an night mare i tought of the idea of drilling out plastic stantion'sand now thatnks to guy's you have confirmed it will work thanks!again
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Post by slowfreight on Jul 17, 2010 9:50:57 GMT -5
If you're using the Kato stanchions, you can leave the factory chains on the ends. On my GP35's, I also trimmed off the very end of the handrails that plugged into the holes in the cabs, and drilled new holes right next to them to terminate the brass handrails. If I hadn't been lazy, I probably would have filled and sanded the holes, but for the hour or two it saves me, no one has ever noticed.
FWIW, I substituted Athearn handrails on one of my GP35's because it was easier than chasing down Smokey Valley parts. I'll probably try that on my SD40, too.
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