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Post by liquidfantasy on Oct 26, 2008 16:36:47 GMT -5
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Post by liquidfantasy on Oct 26, 2008 17:33:46 GMT -5
good idea, thanks ... I ordered an GP40-2 which will be my next project. but it'll take a while to start with, as I first need the tsunami and the speaker to fit - if this work is done I will take care on the weathering job  |
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Post by Randy Earle on Oct 27, 2008 6:15:17 GMT -5
What did you add Denis?
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Post by liquidfantasy on Oct 27, 2008 7:13:10 GMT -5
Detailparts Added:- Wheelslip Modulators (by details west) - The line from the modulators is made with wire (whatever you like to use and it appears in scale) - Break Chain (A-Line) - The "thing" where the chain comes out and goes to the break cylinder is is scratch built - Windshields on the side windows (used the ones I had from the Proto SW900 engines) - Windshield wipers photo etched (Weinert Modellbau*) - Horn (Custom Finishes I guess, its a plastic kit) - and KD#58 couplers - The pilots received a 2nd MU connector like the prototype has (custom finishes I think) please let me know if you need further details on one of the items and I post the part number when I'm at home. *Weinert Modellbau is a German detail parts supplier which offers plenty of photo etched and brass parts plus conversion kits for various German and European models. The windshield wipers are actually for Bus models, but as you can see with a little of scratch build talent one can get them appear to be like the originals ... at least much better then the Atlas ones. Quick how2:I normally disassemble the whole model and work on the single parts as it is much easier to handle... as usual I apply most detail parts at the beginning, some special parts like the windshield wipers, wheelslip modulation cables , ans so on are applied to the reassembled model to avoid them getting damaged during the more rough working steps in between. The general weathering process includes as basic the wash. As a second step I used my airbrush and white thinned with water to archive the fading look of the original paint scheme. Once the result comes close to the prototype picture, It get's it's first matte varnish layer as base for the weathering powders. Applying the powders is done by tone and in layer with each of it getting sealed by matte varnish (in VERY tiny layers!) I always have color printouts of the prototype engine in front of me to see exactly where which tone of dirt has to be applied. Decals get applied depending in which layer of the work progress they should be (if covered by dust it happens earlier, if they stay more clean like on this model, it happens after most powders have been applied) I use airbrush + a glossy varnish to give the decals a ground - I only apply the varnish in a very thin layer in the area where the decals will be added to! Once the decals are applied to the model the whole thing gets another matte varnish layer to protect the decals. Next step is the drybrush with white, one of the key effects in my opinion! Last before reassembly is a stronger matte varnish layer to have the object sealed and protected. After reassembly the last detail parts (the sensitive ones) get applied to it and that's it ... Please ask whatever you want to know cheers,
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c420
Road Foreman
Posts: 75
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Post by c420 on Nov 2, 2008 19:46:03 GMT -5
Very nice work.  |
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Post by cheapgeep on Nov 26, 2008 11:21:51 GMT -5
Way cool, I really like the early Conrail paint and them C-420`s . I`m going to add a low and a high-nose to my fleet in the near future...........CHEAPGEEP
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Post by liquidfantasy on Nov 29, 2008 19:36:47 GMT -5
cheapgeep - LOOOL  |
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Post by liquidfantasy on Mar 24, 2009 7:54:34 GMT -5
I will have to change the horn, the "plastic" one just fell into 3 parts, the brass one is in preparation. I also changed the sound decoder - the QSI is gone and a brand new TSUNAMI sits inside the loco!!! I'm definitely becoming an ALCoholic! The sound is superb and reminds me of the real thing I only know from the Pentraxx DVD's "those incredible ALCo's" I own ... If I find the time, I will upload 2 short vodeos, one from the QSI sound system and the other from the Tsunami |
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Post by graftonterminalrr on Mar 24, 2009 9:04:01 GMT -5
Do you still have the QSI sound board? I'd like to "sound-ify" my P2K RS27.
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Post by icghogger on Mar 25, 2009 10:44:26 GMT -5
Excellent Work, Denis, and the faded paint weathering is perfect  The "bus wipers" really look nice. It is amazing that when you go from kit-bashing to cross-kitting to scratchbuilding, you can come up with some great ideas. |
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Post by liquidfantasy on Mar 31, 2009 6:58:36 GMT -5
@ graftonterminalrr: I responded to your PM :-)
@ Robert, thanks, you are right, sometimes the outcome is quite convincing ;-)
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Post by liquidfantasy on Apr 14, 2009 3:25:07 GMT -5
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Post by liquidfantasy on Apr 14, 2009 5:43:06 GMT -5
and it really sounds way better than in the video since I adjusted the equalizer!!!
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nysw240
Chairman
Modeling the Delaware Valley
Posts: 297
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Post by nysw240 on Apr 14, 2009 8:54:40 GMT -5
Soundtrax makes the best alco sound . Cant wait to order 3 for my RS1s
click the link below this post next to my name
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Post by liquidfantasy on Apr 14, 2009 13:22:45 GMT -5
made another record which is way better:
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