GP30 CSX Slug

[dieselera]

Hi Everyone, I am wanting to make a GP30 slug for CSX. I was thinking that to start I should use a kato GP35 motor/frame and a Proto 2000 GP30 shell. Any ideas on details, sanding and even putty would be Appreciated. Thank You. P.S. How do any of you strip a proto 2000 shell?

[MONONC420]

For stripping P2k units, I always use 91% isypropyl alcohol, but there are afew other products out there that work just as well/better. When I was contemplating doing a GP30 slug, it seemed to me that the best way to do it was to cut out most of the long hood and replace it with sheet styrene. Add the two doors on the rear with cannon and co products. You may be able to do C&C #1154, it is intended for Dash 2 units but might work.

[ssgburme]

Looks like they had both phase1 and 2 for cabs.
Karl

[dieselera]

What phase is the P2K model and how do you tell them apart?

[MONONC420]

Believe the phase 2 is the version with the longer cab on the conductors side, on the Phase 1 both sides are equal in length. Another way to tell is to look at the handrails behind the cab on the conductors side, if there is a stantion close its a phase 1 if there is a significant distance then its a Phase 2.

[sgoti]

Jan 15, 2011 23:04:01 GMT -5 dieselera said:

What phase is the P2K model and how do you tell them apart?

Proto2000 did both phases, see if the box label identifies which one you have.

For spotting details, see this link.

In a nutshell, phase ones had cab sides of equal length and nine handrail stanchions on the conductor's (left) side. Phase twos had a cab that was extended on the conductor's side and eight handrail stanchions.

<edit> Yeah, what he said above! ;D

[cf7]

Here is a Phase 2 that I did a few years ago using the P2K unit...

[dieselera]

WoW looks great CF7! Did you sand down the long hood or use new sheet styrene? If so what kind?
Was there any tips or new tricks that you learned doing this project? Thank You all for sharing!!

[cf7]

Thanks! Here is a photo of the long hood after I finished cutting the sides off. I replaced them with styrene, removed a few hood doors from the cut-off pieces, cut a few holes in the new sides and glued them in place.



It is much easier than it looks!

[IORY87]

Here a few that I did a few years ago, 2 CSX Phase 2 Proto 2000 GP30 slug'S & 1 Atlas GP38/40 Road slug. On all mine I just sanded the long hood doors off excpet the last 2 doors on the long hood, a friend of mine who works for CSX said my Slugs looked better than the real units as he said mine the long hood are way more straighter!







IORY87

[icghogger]

Those are Way Cool, Very Nice Work!!

[dieselera]

iroy87 what an inspiration!!!!! How and what did you use to sand down the long doors?

[IORY87]

To get the doors sanded to nothing I used a small piece of 80 grit sand paper & then used some modeling putty spread down the long hood to fill in the door gaps & any sand scatches that accured during the door removal, I then sanded the long hood with putty on it with 180-220 grit sand paper & added putty where it needed it until it was smooth & then gave a coat of gray "primer" then sanded it with 400-600 grit sand paper until it had a smooth look the re primed it to cover any putty that was visible

Another of my slug scan be seen here:

www.dcctrain.com/shop/custom.asp?recid=23

[dieselera]

Iory87 Sorry but the link at dcctrain does not work.:(Sure would like to see that picture. Thank You very much for contributing!

[IORY87]

It works when I click on it, if it still doesnt just go to www.dcctrain.com & look at the custom painting page at the top

IORY87

[dieselera]

Iroy87 2256 is stunning!!!! Thats what I am going for! What was your trick for making the rear number broads disappear? Thanks for sending the pic links.

[IORY87]

To make the rear number boards disappear I, first off use an exacto knife & cut off the rear headlight as well as the raised edge around the numberboards then I take the rear numberborads them selves & cut off the headlight part and put itback on the hood & then add putty around where the numberboards are & just sand & add putty as needed until the numberboards disapear, aslo by doing it this way it gives you a good base for using the body filler/putty that and it takes much less time & filler to do it this way. I plan on doing another one sometime sonn just not sure when I will get around to it.

I have also done an NS Road Slug, right after NS 700 came out of Juniata I did this.....

[dieselera]

All I write iory87 is ... Nice very nice!!!! Thanks for sharing.