Mars Light Detail

[wabash2800]

See the attached photo. I plan on modeling the Mars light with a Detail Associates PN 1008 for the housing and MV lenses PN 24 and 25 and glueing clear surface mount LEDs on the back side of the lenses with holes drilled out in the housing. The wires are already attached to the golden white surface mount Richmond Controls LEDs and I am going to use a Tsunami decoder with the appropriate reisistor for the LEDs.

Will this work OK? Also, should I scratch off the entire backing on the lenses or just a bit in the center and drill out?I understand the Mars was a figure 8 pattern but this is impossible in model form but the Tsunami will make it pulsate nicely.

I plan on doing the same for the bottom Pyle Housing with clear lenses and also the Pyle on the back side of the unit.

Thanks in advance.

[icghogger]

Your plan should work. Because of the size of the lenses, I would suggest placing the lens face-down on a piece of double-stick tape and lift off all of the reflective coating on the lens using a #11 blade. If you start at the edge, it should peel off without too much trouble. I would then glue the lens/LED in place using watch crystal cement or a similar clear cement (not ACC). For my own stuff, and to save the trouble of wiring another light, I do not have the red light working, as it only came on automatically in penalty air brake applications, or when the hogger turned it on manually for other emergencies on the prototype. In normal operation, when the red mars light came on, the white mars light went out.

[wabash2800]

Thanks for the info. I was planning on using canopy glue provided by Richmond Controls, the same stuff used to glue on the surface mount LEDs.

I knew about the application of the red mars in emergency etc. but thought I would make it operable for a twist in an operating session. So if my train goes into emergency and another operator goes by my train while the red mars is working, he/she may get some time off....<G> I have observed some red mars light in operation on the net and it appears that though the overall glow is red, there is noticable lighter area that moves around in the lense field. It is not as pronounced as the clear mars but is noticable. I am not sure if I can recreate that.

[Mark R.]

Instead of using MV Lens', might I suggest you turn down some 3mm or 5mm LEDs to fit the opening ? Doing this would not only give you the lens on the tip, but also maximize your light output !

Here's a great tuitorial on turning down your own LEDs ....

web.me.com/unionpacific/The_Roundhouse/LED_Headlights.html


Mark.

[c415rock]

Thanks Mark,

What a cool way to make headlights.
Now I am off to Target to see if I can find some before the football and hockey games come on. Go Red Wings, Colts and Seahawks!

Erik

[wabash2800]

Thanks Mark. I went to the website but getting the two LEDS close together in that thin walled Mars fixture at the top of the hood is going to be tough if not impossible. Yes, I know that he does it on a regular dual headlights. Surface mount LEDs should work well with the MV lenses and be plenty bright. The MV lenses are rounded on the surface just like the Mars lights in the casing so should look nice.

[Mark R.]

I know this is going in an entirely different direction, but have you considered using 1.2mm bulbs from Miniatronics instead ? The first benefit would be that they would fit within the tight confines of the housing and provide the required "lens". Second benefit is that bulbs react better to lighting effects like the Mars lighting than LEDs.

Bulbs warm up and cool down naturally giving a better effect where-as LEDs are by nature either on or off and have to replicate the ramp up and down effect electronically.


Mark.

[wabash2800]

Yes, I've considered it but the LEDS are pretty much permanent compared to a light bulb and may outlive the locomotive. I've found some video on line of installations with LEDs and they look fine to me.

But I have to do two locomotives. Maybe I'll try the bulbs on the other locomotive and see how I like it?

[Mark R.]

I wouldn't necessarily write off the bulbs due to life-span .... if you buy quality bulbs, they will last a long time. I know guys that have been running the same bulbs for years ! The cheapie bulbs Athearn uses in their engines are rated in minutes !!! The miniatronics bulbs (albeit a bit pricey) are good quality and if they are driven at slightly less than their rated current will last a long time.


Mark.