Mathew
Chairman
Kentucky & Tennessee Railway
Posts: 616
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Post by Mathew on Dec 29, 2010 3:44:01 GMT -5
Im at it again, attempting another 2'x10' shelf layout, this time using Seivers Benchwork. Most of the assembly is complete, just need to add the top which I plan to use 4" foam to keep things light weight and easy to move.
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Post by spud7378 on Dec 29, 2010 11:36:36 GMT -5
i think foam is the way to go, my next layout i plan to use foam for as much as i can!
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Mathew
Chairman
Kentucky & Tennessee Railway
Posts: 616
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Post by Mathew on Dec 29, 2010 16:11:35 GMT -5
Went and picked up the foam and plywood a few minutes ago. Talk about outragous prices. Picked up 2 sheets of 3/8 BC plywood ($23.56 a sheet) and had to get 6 sheets of 3/4" foam ($7.30 a sheet) as thats the thickest sheets of foam they had. I got the 6 sheets of foam (about 4" thick when added together) so I could accomodate installing a bridge. I decided to put a thin sheet of plywood on so the foam won't get damaged from the underside, the other sheet Ill use for making a back board to attach the background to. My next step is to get the sheets cut to size but with the weather that puts that on hold.
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Mathew
Chairman
Kentucky & Tennessee Railway
Posts: 616
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Post by Mathew on Jan 26, 2011 18:25:16 GMT -5
I know theres no updates on this, I blame the weather, its been too cold, raining or snowing to go outside and cut the peices I need. I did however get the track orderd, everything to do the yard portion of the layout, except the cork road bed, which I forgot.. Its a small yard, nothing fancy. I decided to use the track plan from one of MRR featured layouts. My plan is to build on to the yard as space allows, until I get the entire layout done.
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Post by torikoos on Jan 27, 2011 1:43:25 GMT -5
Having the plywood underneath is also handy to mount things onto, such as terminal strips, turnout motors etc etc. I forgot that on my layout, so whenever I need to install something like that, I have to glue a piece of wood to the underside against the foam in the location needed...
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Post by m a y o r 79 on Jan 27, 2011 13:25:54 GMT -5
My club's modules are built similar. We only put plywood under areas that have track to keep the weight down. There is still plenty of spaces below to mount things to on the joists, or if you have a lot you can always put small plywood or masonite panels on the underside.
One guy in our club put a whole sheet of 3/4" plywood down on his modules and they are very noticably heavier than the rest. I'd recommend not doing that unless you absolutely have to.
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Mathew
Chairman
Kentucky & Tennessee Railway
Posts: 616
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Post by Mathew on Jan 27, 2011 17:08:28 GMT -5
I had in mind using the foam to keep things on the lighter side but I noticed the foam I got seemd to be to brittle to use alone. so I used the thinnest sheet of plywood I could find.
A quick update on this, I decided to bite the bullet, and brave the cold to get these peices cut so now I have them cut and fixing to put them in place.
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Mathew
Chairman
Kentucky & Tennessee Railway
Posts: 616
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Post by Mathew on Jan 28, 2011 16:28:21 GMT -5
I had gotten the white bead board as thats just about the only thing my lumber king carries except for the other insulation board that has a plastic sheeting over it. We dont have the pink or blue foam. They only have a couple of racks of this stuff so its not hard to miss. I had originally wanted to use the foam to add height to the "ground" so i could add a bridge but have since decided to go a diffrent route, no bridge.
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Blackie
Engineer
Clinton Valley Railroad
Posts: 25
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Post by Blackie on Jan 29, 2011 6:03:40 GMT -5
Hi Matt, Use the Woodland Scenics hot wire cutter to cut the foam. With that you could cut the foam in your living room and not make any mess. You won't need a shop vac if you use the wire cutter. I have one and it the best tool you will ever use for foam. Also use Weldwood water based contact cement to glue the foam pieces together. I also build my mods with foam and I use 1/8" Luann plywood on top of the frame work then put the foam on that. I also make the frame out of 3/4" plywood, the frame pieces are 4"x3/4"x8'-0", then there are 2'-0" members on 24" centers. This is very strong, you can walk on it if you wanted. This way it's very solid and no twisting. Go to my photobucket and you can see one of the modules I have been working on. Link: s3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/rjb54us/Blackie
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