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Post by spud7378 on Dec 11, 2010 11:54:23 GMT -5
ok im having a problem trying to figure out my track wiring. i have a point to point layout. no i want to add staging, but to do this i can put the staging on one end but, i would like to bring both ends in the staging my point to point kinda ends together (see pics) so its kinda a reverse loop, any way i cant find any diagram or maybe im just trying to think about it too hard take a look and tell me your thoughts. the pic is rough but you get the point do i make the whole layout the reverse loop or can i make just the staging yard like a wye?
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dtinut
Chairman
Modeling the DT&I of the 60's & 70's
Posts: 661
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Post by dtinut on Dec 11, 2010 13:17:32 GMT -5
wire everything as normal - then use a double pole double trhow switch to set the polarity of the wiring for the section shown in the image
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Post by spud7378 on Dec 11, 2010 15:21:05 GMT -5
now the insulated section should it be as long as my longest train? or does the fact my cars have metel wheels matter? would they short across the insulated gaps?
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CIOR
Chairman
Posts: 2,046
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Post by CIOR on Dec 11, 2010 16:01:00 GMT -5
Only has to be the size of the longest consist. HOWEVER, as someone who has a wye with reversers.....let me say this.
The segment that you have the arrow pointed, isolated it there, then up that line to where it curves onto the other track, isolate it there. Make that segment the reversing section first.
Use a quality auto reverser to save yourself a nightmare!
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CIOR
Chairman
Posts: 2,046
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Post by CIOR on Dec 11, 2010 16:02:01 GMT -5
Sorry, I missed DTINuts comments. Yes, insulate as he has it. There is no issues outside your engine. Even with a signal system and resistor wheels, there isn't an issue.
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Post by spud7378 on Dec 11, 2010 17:11:54 GMT -5
what about the mrc auto reverser?
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CIOR
Chairman
Posts: 2,046
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Post by CIOR on Dec 11, 2010 19:25:06 GMT -5
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Post by spud7378 on Dec 11, 2010 19:41:20 GMT -5
ok thanks!
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Post by Raeder on Dec 12, 2010 0:14:34 GMT -5
I second the recommendation for an auto reverse module. They are very handy and once installed you never have to think about the polarity on your track.
Another idea to consider would be this:
Somehow or another, mark, wrap, do SOMETHING to indicate that the wires feeding the reversing section are different from your track bus elsewhere, so you are not tempted to tie into those wires when working under the layout.
We just chased a set of feeders off of one of the club reverse loops that shouldn't have been wired in where they were. Basically it "locks" the reverser into one polarity, and automatically shorts out when things are flipped. If the wires are marked differently, then you will know in the future not to connect to those particular wires, and save yourself the headache of figuring out why your reversing section has suddenly stopped working.
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Post by spud7378 on Dec 12, 2010 1:02:08 GMT -5
great idea kevin then you can make it easier for trouble shooting down the road as well!
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Post by diesel on Dec 12, 2010 16:35:55 GMT -5
We have 3 auto reverse units on our layout. While you might think you only need to make the reversing section long enough for your loco consist, I have noticed that when cars with metal wheels cross the gap there is a tiny short.
Most of the time it's only an annoyance but it has stopped trains. So, I recommend that you stagger the gaps in the rail by 1/4" to avoid that.
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Post by spud7378 on Dec 12, 2010 16:52:20 GMT -5
dan would there be any point in double insulating say maybe 1/2'' apart and stagger the joints as well, to maybe stop that or is not enough to worry about?
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CIOR
Chairman
Posts: 2,046
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Post by CIOR on Dec 12, 2010 20:07:42 GMT -5
dan would there be any point in double insulating say maybe 1/2'' apart and stagger the joints as well, to maybe stop that or is not enough to worry about? The only issue can be arching and that will happen with metal wheels over any insulated joint. I've always staggered at least 2 ties. Should have mentioned this. But I've never had an issue with the auto reverse and metal wheels.
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Post by diesel on Dec 12, 2010 20:35:11 GMT -5
ya, as long as the wheel isn't able to touch both sides at once you should be ok. Like I said, usually this isn't a problem, but if you have say enough space between the 2 rails at the joiner to slip in a piece of card stock it becomes a problem. The larger that gap is the bigger the problem because the wheel will sit in a pothole so to speak for a second. If your rails are butted up tight, you might not see any issue at all. But it's still not a bad idea to stagger, like Matt says, 2 ties is good.
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Post by spud7378 on Dec 12, 2010 20:45:20 GMT -5
thanks guys i will keep that in mind when im laying the track!
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Post by espeestacktrain on Dec 25, 2010 20:41:54 GMT -5
Kevin, that is an interesting track plan you have there. I like it!!! If I may offer my two cents worth here. My layout is a full loop and divided into 4 separate power districts. One of the things that I was afraid of was that being a full circle (granted it doesn't look like a full circle, but to simplify things it does make one lol), is that when a train returned to its origination point due to the way I wired up the layout from district to district that the polarity would be reversed. Now I am not sure what system you are using, I personally prefer Digitrax, and I am running the Super Chief system (DCS100) with 3 DB150 boosters. In order to combat my own fears (and in all honesty it doesn't hurt anything, or confuse the system in any way), I simply set up each DB150 as an auto reverse booster even if it didn't need to be set up that way!! Anyhow, sorry for that long drawn out explanation. Where I am going with this is, what you may want to do is simply double gab both tracks coming into your staging area, make it a separate power district, and set the booster for it up as an auto reverser. That way you wont get confused later on down the line if you want to expand or add anything. And if anything does happen to go wrong, your entire layout wont shut down. It will also greatly simplify the wiring, as the only wiring you will need to do is from the booster to the staging tracks themselves, then just connect your loconet cables!!! Hope this helps bud! John ;D
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