Learned a new lesson in decals today....

[markdeimling]

don't mask over them with tape until they are sealed. Just pulled the decals off of the passenger car I am working on . I am so close to finishing it too. Oh well, just ordered another set of decals.

Well lesson learned, at least it was a cheap mistake.

[SP_Modeler]

OUCH Mark!
I make it a habit of NEVER masking over decals if at all possible...
If you have to, to say, do the burnt area under a DB grill etc.. try using post -it notes, they are super low tack and much easier on decals and paint... I've also used typing paper cut to shape and then wet in ordinary water.. the water makes the paper stick to the paint, but doesn't pull up set and clear coated decals.
Wish you the best on your repair, I'm sure it will come out fine in the end.
Paul

[m a y o r 79]

Good tip on the post-it notes.

I've got a pair of locos that need to be fairly heavily weathered, but were renumbered so the space under the cab needs to look like fresh paint. That being the case they're already decaled (and sealed). I'll have to give the post-its a try.

[SP_Modeler]

Glad to help ;D
Also to expound on the wet typing paper thing... really light weight NOT heavy duty typing paper will not leave a distinct edge. If you want a ragged edge.. you can try wetting the paper then tearing small chunks out of your top edge to make your pattern random . For example, if you're going to try and represent either burnt or worn paint ( lettering under the DB grills in my case for SP) .. Next, take the wet paper and lay it where you want it...dab off any excess water. Feather in your paint ( browns, grays,etc. ) with your airbrush. Then remove your wet mask by pulling DOWN and AWAY from your wet painted area..and you're done. Works like a charm and no over spray.

Paul