Atlas U36B

[scl1523]

List,
I recently completed building a project U36B that will ultimately become SCL 1799. The model's major modifications have been made and all that now needs be done is the painting and final detailing. The short list of major modifications include:

- Modify the long hood to correct height
- Replace nose with U30C hardware
- Install Pyle National head lamp on nose
- Drill for nose grab
- Install separate nose sand fill hatch
- Install correct horn (albeit DW AH-327 is more correct)
- Install number board grab
- Install brake wheel
- Fill void for step well
- Install Firecracker antenna
- Install all appropriate under frame plumbing
- Install wheel slip modulation device on correct axle
- Replace old U23B trucks with new ones with separate details
- Sand all pilot faces flush
- Remove cast on air hose brackets
- Drill for train lines
- Install custom bent nose grabs
- Modify radiator to include grating, grab iron
- Install separate long hood sand fill hatch
- Create step contour from cab to long hood
- Fill all voids in pilots not used on prototype
- Remove, sand, fill rear brackets on long hood end (specific only to a select group of U34CHs, U33/36Cs)

All that remains to be done includes:
- Rear grabs (not installed due to decaling)
- Side grabs (not installed due to decaling)
- Flag holders on cab roof (nothing to date that can accurately reflect these details)
- Modify last battery box with two latches in place of one latch
- Cut lever brackets, cut levers installed
- Modify brake lines

Here is a link to the model photos:
rides.webshots.com/album/578173095MCKMgf

SCL1523

[scl1523]

No MATE is in the plans. I've wrapped up this unit and she's headed northbound to the Savannah shops for a painting. I will now begin concentrating on my earlier projects for the Georgia group roads. I have WoA 501, a F3A rebuilt into F7A specs being built from the Highliners kit on the bench along with a sound install P2K GP7 with torpedo tubes to accompany it. The torpedo tube Geep will become Georgia 1034. Of course, if I tire of these, the Georgia group rostered 18 GP40s that I can always toil with too.

[scl1523]

The construction phase is rather simple in that it is a fair amount of razor saw to plastic and although straight forward, ensuring square cuts is key. The U36B is an easy kit bash, and truly one of the simplest out there insofar as mixing and matching Atlas Uboat components.

Here is the link to construction photos -
rides.webshots.com/album/578173095MCKMgf

If and when I ever need to kit bash another, it will be built from an Atlas U30B utilizing the radiator section of the U33/U36. The cabs Atlas has used through the years have changed for the better, and the U30 series cab is the best out there. Unfortunately, no cab glass is available, and the AMB windows aren't an option as on other Atlas locomotives.

[empirenorthern]

Very interesting, I am getting started on a pair of Penn Central U33B's. I am starting with the Atlas U30B and adding in part of the long hood from the U33C from Atlas. PC was pretty plain, so there are no nose light to add. This is HO BTW.

I have done some research on the U23C as PC had a few. The HO U30C is very close, only the height of a few long hood doors is different. There is a company that does GE parts out of Canada like Cannon, I will see if I can dig up some information.

Tim

[empirenorthern]

I think I have a couple Georgia GP40-2 shells somewhere if any wants them.

Tim

[Arved]

Jul 20, 2010 7:27:46 GMT -5 @nbec said:

That does look to be straight forward. I wonder if a Atlas U23B and U30C would make a good stand in for a U23C.

Have you investigated the Frateschi U23C? Might be easier than you think. The drive may not be as good as Atlas. Perhaps try ordering the shell, and put it on an Atlas U-XX-C drive?

www.frateschi.com.br/produtos/u23c_eng.php

Hope this helps,
- Arved

[carlmarsico]

Jul 22, 2010 8:53:51 GMT -5 empirenorthern said:

Very interesting, I am getting started on a pair of Penn Central U33B's. I am starting with the Atlas U30B and adding in part of the long hood from the U33C from Atlas. PC was pretty plain, so there are no nose light to add. This is HO BTW.

I have done some research on the U23C as PC had a few. The HO U30C is very close, only the height of a few long hood doors is different. There is a company that does GE parts out of Canada like Cannon, I will see if I can dig up some information.

Tim

For the PC units, I'd go with an Atlas U33C/U36C sill/walkway and handrails, which are a different configuration than the Phase 2 U30C and the Phase 3 U30C

The long hood is pretty easy to kitbash from a U23B and U30C. Note that the Atlas U23B is a slightly later phase than the PC U23C, and you'll have to add the horizontal drip rail on the radiator section. I thought about kitbashing one of these from some parts that were leftover from my CSX U36C (basically U36C short hood and long hood on Phase 3 U30C to get correct walkway/sill), but for the fact that I don't know how I'd justify a CR U23C...

www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1855047

[carlmarsico]

Oct 30, 2011 10:01:23 GMT -5 Arved said:

Jul 20, 2010 7:27:46 GMT -5 @nbec said:

That does look to be straight forward. I wonder if a Atlas U23B and U30C would make a good stand in for a U23C.

Have you investigated the Frateschi U23C? Might be easier than you think. The drive may not be as good as Atlas. Perhaps try ordering the shell, and put it on an Atlas U-XX-C drive?

www.frateschi.com.br/produtos/u23c_eng.php

Hope this helps,
- Arved

Walkway/sill would be incorrect for PC U23C, sill for Atlas U33C/U36C would be correct as it has one extra box that isn't present on the Frateschi U23C or Atlas Phase 3 U30C

CJM