Post by jbretz68 on Jan 25, 2010 16:52:25 GMT -5
I model the Penn Central, and have collected quite a collection of locomotives and freight cars build some nice PC trains. However, I have always had an affection for another railroad that operated during the same time and in much of the same areas as the Penn Central. I love the Lehigh Valley, and if I could do it all over again, I would model the LV versus the PC (just much too invested at this point). My love for the PC is strong but how can anybody resist the LV, their various paint schemes applied over the years and the variety of locomotives that they ran. One such locomotive is the GP18, of which the LV had 4, along with 2 GP9's. The GP18 of interest for this project is LV #304, the only low nosed GP18 the LV had rostered.
History:
The history of this unit is interesting, as it came to the Valley as a typical high hooded GP18 (classed as ERSM18 on the LV) unit brand new, order number 7587 in the mid 60's using the FT's as trade in credit. However, she was damaged in late 1971 while it was pushing on a train. The damage was fairly extensive, which in turn damaged the front end (high hood) crushing not only the hood but it also damaged the cab to some extent. This type of damage, however, was too extensive for Lehigh Valley shop forces at Sayer to handle in house so it needed to be sent out for repairs. The Valley found a very capable rebuilding facility, one in which had done this same type of modification multiple times to it's own GP7's and 9's, located in Paducha, Kentucky. Yes, the Valley sent #304 to be rebuilt into a Paducha Geep by the Illinois Central Gulf Railroad. With it's new chopped nose and the then current LV paint scheme, #304 was returned to the Valley in June of 1972 to carry out it's normal duties.
Model:
The choice to mode LV #304 was easy, since it was unique and would make a nice addition to my collection and could also be used for transfer runs between the PC and the LV yards on my layout. Proto 2000 produced the GP18 and the parts for the kit bash were readily available. I was lucky to have gotten my hands on an undecorated GP18 and that is where I started (this could be done with a decorated unit, but stripping it is recommenced to keep the clarity of details as crisp as possible). My next step was to gather as many photos of this unit, from every angle I could possibly think of (front, top, both sides and even one of the rear end). This helped me decide which parts to purchase for the transformation:
The final detail for the model was the air horn since it was a non-typical arrangement for the Valley nor a commercially available part. However, Details Associates makes a plastic air horn kit that for now will fill in. However, my goal is to get my hands on one of the brass kits from Custom Finishing and use that kit.
Painting and Decals:
Painting this unit is a challenge and photos ( as many as you can get your hands on) really help to match. However, no matter how diligent one might be in trying to match, perfection is always a bit off. So my LV GP18 is a bit on the reddish side, however, with a bit of weathering nobody will ever know. I am a big fan of using Scalecoat II paint, and they make a very reliable and easy to spray paint. My particular mix a 2:1 ratio, with 2 parts SF red to 1 part LV “Cornell” red (although, the new Cornell red is slightly different then that I used some years ago to paint my LV GP38-2) . That being said, I am happy with how my unit turned out and she fits in with my GP38-2, C420's and U23B's nicely.
Decals are available for this unit from Microscale Decals, with only the pilot offering some difficulties (you can see this in the photos). However, after having major issues with the front pilot, I found that removing all pilot details after painting so do not glue any parts on, then apply the stripes this works out so much better than applying over glued on parts like I did on the front...such is life.
Nose Modifications:
For the chopped nose for my unit, I used and Atlas GP7 short high hood to replace the sloped low nose of the P2K model. By doing this, I was able to save quite a bit of time on this portion of the model since the hood already had locations for grab irons and molded on classification lights. After cutting the nose to fit all of the running gear, and several test fits with the new nose, I realized that the depth of the nose was not quite right (the nose needed to be pushed towards the front of the unit) so I took .010 styrene attached it to the nose, carved, filled and sanded the profile to match that of the Atlas nose. Next, I needed to carve off all details, fill the location of the headlight and number boards which was done using the light board casting from the Atlas shell. I add filler putty and sanded the nose smooth (see above picture). Also, to match the LV unit, I needed to extend the front battery box compartment in front of the engineer. This too was salvaged from the same Atlas shell I cut up for the nose, and with a filler strip of .015 styrene my unit was almost ready. I added new sand filler hatches to this unit from Details Associates, and then used Details West formed wire grab irons which I installed after the unit was painted and decal ed which helped make the decal work much easier. One final detail was the see through step on the front of the battery box on the engineers side. This step would be a typical step found on any high hood “Geep”, this was done using Aline's etched brass parts and a few eye bolts to secure the step to the front of the battery box.
On the fireman's side, only minor modifications needed to be made. First some scrap .015 styrene was used to fill under the step to represent the actual formed box type step. I added the small front portion of the step from the Atlas Geep and glued it to the front batter box on this side as well, which matches the prototype unit. Then, just as I did on the engineer's side I added some filler styrene to fill the slight gap between the new nose and the battery boxes. The final step was to try to match the diamond tread plating on the walk ways. The best I could do was to use some Aline's brass walk way material cut to fit the locations shown in the photograph. One note on this step, it is much easier and you gain better adhesion of these parts if you drill holes through the walkway so there is someplace for the glue to go other than out the sides. Once painted this detail blends much better than when the unit was under construction.
All the hand rail castings were the stock handrails with exception for on the fireman's side of the unit since I had handrails for a high hood unit I was force to make this part (however, I think if one were to start with the low nose GP18, this would railing would work). I used .015 bass rod and the delrin stanchions from my spare handrail. Using photos and the model as a guide I hand bend the railings and glued them in position with AC cement.
Cab & Roof Modification:
Next came the addition of details to the cab and roof. First, I filled in the large slots for the P2K supplied cab sunshades opting for the Aline brass sunshades instead. Looking back on it now (and this detail was added) I really suggest adding a piece of styrene above the sunshade to represent the track or the sunshade track could be used from any of the Cannon & Co. cab kits (this is exactly what I used and it looks much better and matches the prototype).
Also added to the cab was a new headlight casting, I used the Details Associates part since this gave a better overall look as opposed to the cast on headlight.
The bell took some additional time to work on. I constructed mine using the Details Associates under frame bell, with all brackets removed, and a piece of brass rod inserted to the underside of the bell. The air supply line was thin (.012 or .010 will work) brass rod bent to match prototype photos I had (see above photo for bell). Next I added Details West 48” fans, which at the time were the only ones available. Also all lift rings were put into place, and for this unit there were only 6 locations that required this detail. I use Details Associates formed wire lift rings since they give a truer dimension once paint is applied versus the ones supplied with the locomotive. The Details Associates winterization hatch was added but I left this detail unglued until after painting.
The modification to the ox yolk filter hatch was interesting since the Details West part was originally designed to be put on the old Athearn GP9 unit. Then, all of the parts were reassembled using AC and the gaps filled with body filler and sanded smooth. This part is now commercially available from Warren's Custom finishing, part #260 “Horst air filter GP7-9”...if only I knew about this at the time.
During the construction of this model, I ran into a road block because I could not decide how to construct the center split in the P2K solid center window. My first thought was to use this part from a Cannon cab, but that really is too much work. After some years (it took 2 years to finally find the part).
To build my air filter, I started with centering the filter and making rough marks where the end of the body was. I then cut off each side of the filter. After repeated test fittings, cutting and continual filing down of the center part of the casting, I was able to get the correct dimensions for this filter. The parts were attached together and to the unit with AC cement, then, using a bit of body filler and some additional sanding my ox yolk filter was complete.
Parts List: DA = Details Associates
DW = Details West
Proto 2000 powered GP 18
Atlas GP7/9 body shell (for short hood & battery box) #
Atlas GP7/9 light bar #
Athearn # 42009 Blomberg B trucks side frame
Evergreen stock styrene .188 or thinner for filler pieces
Aline sunshades # 29210
Aline etched steps # 29239
Cannon walkway tread # ST2016
MV class light lenses # LS300
Kadee # 58 (or 158) scale couplers
DesPlains Hobby # 190-419 windhield split ??
DW # 292 Roof top bell
DW # AH 328 Plastic air horn kit
DW # SF 201 EMD GP7-20 Sand filler hatch
DW #CF 144 48” Cooling fan
DW # ? Ox yolk air filter (also Warren's Custom finishing, part #260 “Horst air filter GP7-9”)
DW #328 Airhorn
DA # 1508 MU hoses
DA # 1501 MU stand
DA # 2014 Winterization hatch
DA # 2206 Formed wire lift rings
DA # 2202 Formed wire grab irons
DA # 1401 Drop step early EMD
DA # WR2504 (0.12 dia. brass wire)
Scalecoat II Lehigh Valley Cornell Red # S 2062
Scalecoat II Santa Fe Red # S 2026
Polyscale SP Daylight red (“safety orange”) # F414183
Microscale decals # 87-861 LV Late Cornell Red Scheme
History:
The history of this unit is interesting, as it came to the Valley as a typical high hooded GP18 (classed as ERSM18 on the LV) unit brand new, order number 7587 in the mid 60's using the FT's as trade in credit. However, she was damaged in late 1971 while it was pushing on a train. The damage was fairly extensive, which in turn damaged the front end (high hood) crushing not only the hood but it also damaged the cab to some extent. This type of damage, however, was too extensive for Lehigh Valley shop forces at Sayer to handle in house so it needed to be sent out for repairs. The Valley found a very capable rebuilding facility, one in which had done this same type of modification multiple times to it's own GP7's and 9's, located in Paducha, Kentucky. Yes, the Valley sent #304 to be rebuilt into a Paducha Geep by the Illinois Central Gulf Railroad. With it's new chopped nose and the then current LV paint scheme, #304 was returned to the Valley in June of 1972 to carry out it's normal duties.
Model:
The choice to mode LV #304 was easy, since it was unique and would make a nice addition to my collection and could also be used for transfer runs between the PC and the LV yards on my layout. Proto 2000 produced the GP18 and the parts for the kit bash were readily available. I was lucky to have gotten my hands on an undecorated GP18 and that is where I started (this could be done with a decorated unit, but stripping it is recommenced to keep the clarity of details as crisp as possible). My next step was to gather as many photos of this unit, from every angle I could possibly think of (front, top, both sides and even one of the rear end). This helped me decide which parts to purchase for the transformation:
The final detail for the model was the air horn since it was a non-typical arrangement for the Valley nor a commercially available part. However, Details Associates makes a plastic air horn kit that for now will fill in. However, my goal is to get my hands on one of the brass kits from Custom Finishing and use that kit.
Painting and Decals:
Painting this unit is a challenge and photos ( as many as you can get your hands on) really help to match. However, no matter how diligent one might be in trying to match, perfection is always a bit off. So my LV GP18 is a bit on the reddish side, however, with a bit of weathering nobody will ever know. I am a big fan of using Scalecoat II paint, and they make a very reliable and easy to spray paint. My particular mix a 2:1 ratio, with 2 parts SF red to 1 part LV “Cornell” red (although, the new Cornell red is slightly different then that I used some years ago to paint my LV GP38-2) . That being said, I am happy with how my unit turned out and she fits in with my GP38-2, C420's and U23B's nicely.
Decals are available for this unit from Microscale Decals, with only the pilot offering some difficulties (you can see this in the photos). However, after having major issues with the front pilot, I found that removing all pilot details after painting so do not glue any parts on, then apply the stripes this works out so much better than applying over glued on parts like I did on the front...such is life.
Nose Modifications:
For the chopped nose for my unit, I used and Atlas GP7 short high hood to replace the sloped low nose of the P2K model. By doing this, I was able to save quite a bit of time on this portion of the model since the hood already had locations for grab irons and molded on classification lights. After cutting the nose to fit all of the running gear, and several test fits with the new nose, I realized that the depth of the nose was not quite right (the nose needed to be pushed towards the front of the unit) so I took .010 styrene attached it to the nose, carved, filled and sanded the profile to match that of the Atlas nose. Next, I needed to carve off all details, fill the location of the headlight and number boards which was done using the light board casting from the Atlas shell. I add filler putty and sanded the nose smooth (see above picture). Also, to match the LV unit, I needed to extend the front battery box compartment in front of the engineer. This too was salvaged from the same Atlas shell I cut up for the nose, and with a filler strip of .015 styrene my unit was almost ready. I added new sand filler hatches to this unit from Details Associates, and then used Details West formed wire grab irons which I installed after the unit was painted and decal ed which helped make the decal work much easier. One final detail was the see through step on the front of the battery box on the engineers side. This step would be a typical step found on any high hood “Geep”, this was done using Aline's etched brass parts and a few eye bolts to secure the step to the front of the battery box.
On the fireman's side, only minor modifications needed to be made. First some scrap .015 styrene was used to fill under the step to represent the actual formed box type step. I added the small front portion of the step from the Atlas Geep and glued it to the front batter box on this side as well, which matches the prototype unit. Then, just as I did on the engineer's side I added some filler styrene to fill the slight gap between the new nose and the battery boxes. The final step was to try to match the diamond tread plating on the walk ways. The best I could do was to use some Aline's brass walk way material cut to fit the locations shown in the photograph. One note on this step, it is much easier and you gain better adhesion of these parts if you drill holes through the walkway so there is someplace for the glue to go other than out the sides. Once painted this detail blends much better than when the unit was under construction.
All the hand rail castings were the stock handrails with exception for on the fireman's side of the unit since I had handrails for a high hood unit I was force to make this part (however, I think if one were to start with the low nose GP18, this would railing would work). I used .015 bass rod and the delrin stanchions from my spare handrail. Using photos and the model as a guide I hand bend the railings and glued them in position with AC cement.
Cab & Roof Modification:
Next came the addition of details to the cab and roof. First, I filled in the large slots for the P2K supplied cab sunshades opting for the Aline brass sunshades instead. Looking back on it now (and this detail was added) I really suggest adding a piece of styrene above the sunshade to represent the track or the sunshade track could be used from any of the Cannon & Co. cab kits (this is exactly what I used and it looks much better and matches the prototype).
Also added to the cab was a new headlight casting, I used the Details Associates part since this gave a better overall look as opposed to the cast on headlight.
The bell took some additional time to work on. I constructed mine using the Details Associates under frame bell, with all brackets removed, and a piece of brass rod inserted to the underside of the bell. The air supply line was thin (.012 or .010 will work) brass rod bent to match prototype photos I had (see above photo for bell). Next I added Details West 48” fans, which at the time were the only ones available. Also all lift rings were put into place, and for this unit there were only 6 locations that required this detail. I use Details Associates formed wire lift rings since they give a truer dimension once paint is applied versus the ones supplied with the locomotive. The Details Associates winterization hatch was added but I left this detail unglued until after painting.
The modification to the ox yolk filter hatch was interesting since the Details West part was originally designed to be put on the old Athearn GP9 unit. Then, all of the parts were reassembled using AC and the gaps filled with body filler and sanded smooth. This part is now commercially available from Warren's Custom finishing, part #260 “Horst air filter GP7-9”...if only I knew about this at the time.
During the construction of this model, I ran into a road block because I could not decide how to construct the center split in the P2K solid center window. My first thought was to use this part from a Cannon cab, but that really is too much work. After some years (it took 2 years to finally find the part).
To build my air filter, I started with centering the filter and making rough marks where the end of the body was. I then cut off each side of the filter. After repeated test fittings, cutting and continual filing down of the center part of the casting, I was able to get the correct dimensions for this filter. The parts were attached together and to the unit with AC cement, then, using a bit of body filler and some additional sanding my ox yolk filter was complete.
Parts List: DA = Details Associates
DW = Details West
Proto 2000 powered GP 18
Atlas GP7/9 body shell (for short hood & battery box) #
Atlas GP7/9 light bar #
Athearn # 42009 Blomberg B trucks side frame
Evergreen stock styrene .188 or thinner for filler pieces
Aline sunshades # 29210
Aline etched steps # 29239
Cannon walkway tread # ST2016
MV class light lenses # LS300
Kadee # 58 (or 158) scale couplers
DesPlains Hobby # 190-419 windhield split ??
DW # 292 Roof top bell
DW # AH 328 Plastic air horn kit
DW # SF 201 EMD GP7-20 Sand filler hatch
DW #CF 144 48” Cooling fan
DW # ? Ox yolk air filter (also Warren's Custom finishing, part #260 “Horst air filter GP7-9”)
DW #328 Airhorn
DA # 1508 MU hoses
DA # 1501 MU stand
DA # 2014 Winterization hatch
DA # 2206 Formed wire lift rings
DA # 2202 Formed wire grab irons
DA # 1401 Drop step early EMD
DA # WR2504 (0.12 dia. brass wire)
Scalecoat II Lehigh Valley Cornell Red # S 2062
Scalecoat II Santa Fe Red # S 2026
Polyscale SP Daylight red (“safety orange”) # F414183
Microscale decals # 87-861 LV Late Cornell Red Scheme
The run-down on your techniques really tell us about your efforts and they have paid off in spades. Can't wait to see it painted!
