Which one goes where?

[CoalBelt]

Thanks to your help I found the right type of lighting for my needs. I went with Richmond controls golden white leds for all of the lights on my locomotive. Everything on the model is done and im ready to install the leds. As a preface I have my digitrax 123 decoder set up so that f1 controls the front lamps and f3 controls the rear lamps. F0 no longer does anything, in other words, the ligths are controled only by these functions and not direction or anything else. The decoder was set up this way when I installed it into the model directly from the box. Now that the model has been painted, decaled, weathered, and is ready to go I am installing one led for each lamp on the loco totalling 8 (with ditch lights). I hooked the positive lead on the led to the red wire which i believe to be positive and the negative lead to the black wire. I am using a 1/2 watt 470 ohm resistor and I have the two positives from each led hooked together then to the resistor and the same with the negative except to the black wire. I hooked up the two front lamps to test them and make sure everything worked ok, the front lamps were on. But they wont respond to the function commands anymore. They are just on and if I reverse the loco the lights stay un they just dim way down. I am completely confused. I havent changed any decoder settings. Why the heck would this happen and what do I do to fix it?

Don

[dtinut]

First off - the Digitrax series which ends with 3 is junk.
I would suggest getting a NCE D13SR series decoder and it will work as programmed to. (How you want it to)

There is a software programming glitch in the Digitrax xx3 decoders, and you'll have nothing but issues with it forever.

Sorry!
Brian

[CoalBelt]

My explanation is pretty confusing, i guess a much more simple question would be to just ask how the i wire the leds. I want to control the leds with function commands and I need to know how to wire the leds so that they only respond to function commands.

[CIOR]

This will help you with wiring
www.digitrax.com/v1/ftp/dh123d.pdf

My suggestion is to use a VOM (Volt meter) and test which functions trigger. Once you have this done, then wire everything up.

I'm not a digitrax decoder fan, I use TCS for everything that isn't sound anymore!

Also, here you go, if you want to know anything on the decoder, then this will help you out for reference.
www.digitrax.com/v1/ftp/Decoder%20Manual.pdf

[CoalBelt]

hmmm, thanks for the info but its starting to look like a change of decoder maybe in order. I have asked the same question on a different board and the one thing that remains constant is that digitrax isnt all that great. I think I may have the the wire location figured out but now im searching for a different decoder to put in this loco and eventually the rest of them. A little research has led me to the lenz decoders.

Thanks for the help

Don

[CIOR]

Don, I suggest TCS, as it has everything and then some and a goof proof warranty umatched.
Others suggest NCE.

Just remember to wire up the common side of the leds and go from there.

[Kiro]

It is simple.... white front lights, yellow back lights, blue common. Some have the extra function cables to connect dicth lights, etc. You will need to change the CVs to control all the lights with one function, no matter if front, rear or ditch. Digitraxx is difficult to configure, NCE easier. Check the configuration of functions, will take some time until you are familiar with programming CVs but it can be done. My suggestion...... try NCE´s

[CoalBelt]

I want to add sound to my locos and I was planning on doing a sound installation at a later date. But, ive put so much work into this thing at this point and I already have it apart so I am thinking I will just add the sound now and do the same with the other when i get to detailing each one. Soundtraxx is the only thing I would want to install, would the wiring be the same considering the tsunami is an all-in-one type decoder? I would assume the wire coloring is an nmra standard.

Also, while I am at it I have a few capacitor questions: 1.) does the AT1000 tsunami have a capacitor built in somewhere? 2.) I want a 2200 uF capacitor or a few small capacitors if the 2.2k wont fit, is this even worth it and where on the board do they attach.

Keep in mind this is my first layout with a lot of experimentation. The trackwork on future layouts will be a smooth and as electrically bulletproof as I can make it but the current trackwork is lacking in a few spots.

[CIOR]

I don't mess with the capacitors on the decoders.
Yes, the soundtraxx decoder is standard, all is the same!

The capacitor is built in on the Tsunami's that I've installed.

If you make the track solid electrically, then you won't need the bigger capacitor. Besides, you add larger capacitors and you have the issue with being able to restart the railroad, even with the circuit breakers.

My suggest is just do the Tsunami decoders and be done with it.

[CoalBelt]

well I will take it from the voice of experience about the capacitor idea. My track work was pretty rushed and isnt of the best quality, I put it in 4 years ago when i was 18 and just getting into the hobby. I will just get some magnet wire and wire up all the rails on my switches, yard tracks and spurs. Small layout so it shouldnt take long. I ordered the soundtraxx with the emd 645 for my GP40. Im itching to get this together and see the finished product. See if my first venture into this sort of thing was a success or not!

Thanks or all the help!

[CIOR]

Wish you the best of luck and hope it turns out just like you want it to!