INDR SD18s with ALCo trucks

[Indy-City]

My INDR SD10 project is waiting for detailing parts, so i want to use the time to start searching for documents for my next project:

An old C&O SD18s with ALCo trucks, which has been used by INDR too.

I'm looking for the following articles:

Mainline Modeler December 1990
C&O SD18 - unique on its ALCO trucks

Mainline Modeler August 1991
EMD SD18, Part 1 - rebuilding the SD9

Mainlie Modeler September 1991
EMD SD18 Modeling, Part 2

Who can help with scans ?

Thank you all for help.

[mosteam3985]

This is off topic but I like your avatar. I just finished an INDR SD90mac for a buddy. It was a fun build.

[Indy-City]

An INRD SD90-43MAC - what a dream.
Sometimes i'll have to let it become true.

But the Kato-model ist rar and expencive in Germany. So i'll build a SD10 and a SD18 first.

Didi you use the highball graphics decals for the model ?

Can you please post a pic of that model. I`m not sure which parts of the roof have to be gray.

[DRLOCO]

By the way, INRD are the proper reporting marks for the Indiana Rail Road (Rail and Road being 2 words because a remnant of the Indiana Railroad, an electric interurban, was still around when the INRD was founded in 1986).
I had that article, but I don't anymore...changing modeling locales and a basement flood did them in. You might try contacting the magazine themselves to see if they would give you a copy--sometimes they will even photocopy the article for you for a small fee!

I believe they used Bowser MFG sideframes on Kato RSC-2 trucks underneath a Proto SD9 that had been updated to an SD18...
But now I think you could just place Stewart Mfg. Alco Trimount trucks underneath the Proto SD18 sideframe....
Still be an interesting build!

You may have an easier time doing INRD's SD10's that they purchased from DME and were originally Milwaukee Road SD9's that had their noses chopped...that's a pretty easy kitbash using a Cannon cab/nose and a Proto SD9.

[mosteam3985]

My buddy had a kato CEFX sd90 and wanted it repainted to INRD. Actually the cool thing is that I repainted it to the actual number that the real CEFX unit was repainted to. Actually I used the microscale decal set. I wasn't aware that there were other ones available. My friend lives in chicago and I live in Minnesota so getting pictures of it will be tough to do but I will see if he can take a pic and send it to me. By the way, the roof panels I painted were black.

Try this, rrpicturearchives has some great pics of the macs.

www.rrpicturearchives.net/locoList.aspx?id=INRD

[Indy-City]

@kris
The problem is, that Mainline Modeler is gone since a few years.

mosteam3985
for the next model: www.mgdecals.com/indiana_railroad.htm
For the roof, reefer gray will be the right choose.

My current problem is to find a source for the low nose of the SD18. At first I thought to use a P2K GP18 or GP20 nose, but I was told that there are differences between GP and SD noses. Unfortunately they don't told me where these differences are.

[wjwilcox]

I have the Mainline Modeler December 1990 article on the C&O SD18's. If you PM me with an email address I can send you a scan.

[MONONC420]

Joerg, if you can get an Atlas SD24/26 shell, you should be able to use the nose from it. As was recommended, I would probably try and build one of the SD10s, but I think that it's cool that you are taking on this challenge. It's really cool to find more Indiana Railroad modelers out there. If you can ever make it to the states, come on over to Indiana and I will give ya the full tour! Good Luck!

Christian

[Indy-City]

I wonder what will be the better starting model for a SD18 ?

a SD9 or a SD24 ?

The SD24 has one advantage: It's an Atlas model. It might be easier to install the RSD5 trucks, from Atlas too.

[MONONC420]

I'd probably start with an SD9. The proto units normally run pretty well. I think, IMHO, that the detail changes required for the SD24 would be greater than the SD9. You could graft an atlas SD24 nose and cab onto the Proto 2000 shell.

Christian

[Indy-City]

Ok, Christian,

the next SD9 on E... will be mine. The order for Atlas parts is out.

Give me a little time, than i come back with the first pictures.

Thanks to all for their help.

Happy Holiday

[deez]

joerg810, cant wait to see the progress! The Proto SD9 w/ Atlas SD24 front should work fine. I'm not too sure if the doors below the radiator are the same from SD9's to SD18's.

What I have to do is the oposite of the C&O phase (II?) SD18's.




I have to use the Altlas SD24 with the Proto SD9 hood. BUT, when you figure out what to use to make the late phase radiator grills. Please share them with me! I havent read any of the MM SD18 articles so I dont know what they might be using either.

[mosteam3985]

Hey Joerg! Hows the progress going on this build? I would love to see some of your INRD units! My buddy in Chicago is sending me another SD90 to do for him and I was inspired by you to do it for him! I can't wait to dive in and I can't wait to see your units coming along!

[Indy-City]

Give me a little more time.
It takes longer to get all needed parts to Germany.
And I don't have a big budget for my hobby.

The INRD SD10 #2000 project will start in a few day.
All parts will be here within the next 2 weeks. This project has been started much earlier.

[deez]

Jeorge, from what I've learned about building a CORRECT SD18's is that using an SD24/SD9 combo is just the beginning. I'm pretty sure most SD18's were factory low nose so the BEST starting point is an Atlas SD24. The SD18 and 24 both share the same radiator door configuration (you want to remove the louvers from the last radiator door for SD18's too). These doors are actually taller than the radiator doors on an SD9. The SD24 does however have a longer radiator so you need to use the radiator of the SD9.
Moving along, the engine and electrical compartment doors are the same as the SD9 but since there is no late phase SD9 available, the two first doors behind the cab have to be modified to extend to the bottom like the rest of the doors.
Now, the hardest part might just be the dynamic breaks. They're not exactly the same as an SD9. While the front and body of the SD9 dynamics are fine, the rear bulge is different for an SD18. If you look at the SD9 dynamic break section, both bulges taper to the center of the top of the long hood. The Dynamic breaks actually are higher than the radiator. Since the SD18 uses taller radiator doors (like the SD24) the radiator of course sits higher and the rear of the dynamic breaks also tapers up higher to meet flush with the top of the radiator. (I have no idea how to make this rear bulge on the dynamics).
Well thats the basics. I'll post drawings in a little bit of each loco, SD9, 18, 24 for better reference.

[Indy-City]

deez,

thank you for you infos.

Sounds i have to wait for an SD24 at Ebay Germany

Ok, also that time will come.

[deez]

Ok gentlemen,
Here is your average SD9.
Note the dynamic breaks sit the highest with both end bulges tapering to the center at the top of the long roof.



Here is the SD24.
Notice the height difference between the SD9's radiator doors and the SD24's. The door configuration is different also.



Now here is the SD18.
Since the radiator doors are the higher type and configuration as on the SD24 the back dynamic bulge tapers to the top flush with the higher SD9 (shorter than the SD24's) radiator.



Even for an EMD diesel this should be a fun and distinct project, especially with the alco trucks and later phase radiator grills!

[Indy-City]

Thank you for these drawings.

If you change fast between these pics you can see very clear, which part you can use from the SD9 and which from the SD24.

I think, i'll take a SD9 and a shell and cab of a SD24 as the main parts.

[Freightrain]

I'm starting to get a hankerin for this loco ;D

What in the world gave that Chessie unit eye lashes around the class light on the nose

[deez]

Another thing I noticed is that behind the cab the sides and top are actually straight, then transition to the rounded top. Here is a photo showing it.