Athearn Blue Box with DCC

[spike]

I have mostly Blue Box Athearn engins which I bought over the last 20 years. I liked them because they were well done, cheap, and not much detail. I have detailed them, and some have Rail Power bodies. Most still have the stock motors, but tuned up drives.
The other day I was working with another modeler. He said that they would burn ut the decoders. I thought that everything would be fine, as long as I used a properly rated decoder. Do you think that it is worth remotoring about 25 engines?

[CP_8530]

As long as you have a properly rated decoder they should be fine. In the end when they're all converted, it'll be worth it There are those with hundreds and hundreds of locos to convert, consider yourself lucky.

Problem is, it might be a bit of work converting them all (isolating the motor, wiring, the usual stuff). But once you do a few, you'll get the hang of it and the rest will go quicker.

[Raeder]

One way to check is to amp test the motor, if you're familiar with that. Another method is to simply run the loco on a test track chasing its tail. Stop every few loops and feel the decoder. Then run more loops. I can speak to the durability of the Digitrax decoders, I don't have much experience with other brands. The Digitrax will hold out under a heavy load...

for a little while...

That being the key. A decoder that is pushing too much power to the motor will get hot, and you will feel this. In normal operation, the decoder can be held without a problem. Overloaded decoders get hot, and you can't hold it because it *will* burn you.

If your motors are pulling too much, you won't be able to hold the decoders. If they are within the decoder's amperage ratings, then you'll be able to hold the decoder without burning yourself.

After you have run a few test laps, start running a longer period. If you can run a train around your layout without having the decoder go into thermal shutdown, you're probably safe. The safest way, though, is just to amp-test the loco. Most anything I've run from Blue Box stuff has been within the limits of the decoders I've worked with.

Kevin

[CIOR]

As someone that has done this type install a hundred times over this is what I will say.
1.) have the proper rated decoder!
2.) Isolate everything up! (coat the contact area below the motor with black paint and then use tape, also when you pull the strip off the bottom of the motor, clip or bend the little tabs up)
3.) HARDWIRE everything. I didn't use the Digitrax ATH kit, I just did it myself (most before they had them) its not hard, just do it right.

I HIGHLY suggest testing the motor for stall current before hand. ESPECIALLY if its a early 80's and before model. Those motor draw high, and it might be worth your time to replace the motor with a new Athearn motor (had cheap on Ebay).

I would just take your time and do it right. I also don't suggest putting a HIGH END decoder in a older BB Athearn. Just my preference anyway.

[diesel]

The reason your friend was saying this is because the older Athearn motor does draw more apmerage, but like everyone here says, if you hook up a T1 ect. it'll work just fine. I have decided to repower all my Athearn blue box. This has led me to look for inexpensive motors, ie. estate sales, closeouts... since I have as many as you do.

Jay I had no idea that decoder was so inexpensive! I'm on it!

[spike]

Thank you! Part of his point was that I could buy a lower powered system, and still run many units. On the other hand, some of the cheaper systems don't have the expandability which I want. I have purchased these engines since the late 1980's, but mostly while I was in college in the early 1990's.
I do the toothpaste, adjust the spring tension on the brushes, etc. Most run really well.

[riss2509]

I can attest to what Jay is saying, I did alot of research into decoders throughout the past year. basically it came down to cost, function, and voltage. For me, the NCE won hands down. I use a dealer in New York state, Empire northern models for my decoders. All my units have the D13SR series decoder, all 9 pin, 2 8 pin, and 1 NCE DASR. And all my engines are Athearn, and run phenomally! Everyone has there favorate decoders, look into them all, and find out whats right for you!

Also, if you need some NCE harnesses, shoot me a PM, we can work something out!

[spike]

Thanks again for all input!
I have a new question. It has to do with accessory outputs. Most sets have a wire for the front headlight, the rear, and ditch lights. Do some have another circuit for rear ditch lights? I need them on some of the Geeps, which often run solo in both directions.

[smokie]

not trying to hijack here, but how do you amp test a motor? i've tried to find it on the search & came up with nothing.

[geepfan]

not trying to hijack here, but how do you amp test a motor? i've tried to find it on the search & came up with nothing.

hook a volt meter up to the tracks and start the unit moving, then crank up the power to max and hold the unit in place unit the motor can't spin anymore, let go of it as soon as you get a reading as doing this too long will damage things. this is the stall current, the maximum amount of current a motor can draw.

I'm not sure how to place the voltmeter but someone should know


P.S. my first post!