What is required?

[montyvox]

Good afternoon everyone-

I have a Kato SD80MAC for NS, and I am looking to put a Tsunami decoder in it.

I am new to the whole DCC thing, and besisdes the decoder, what else do I need?

I don't know if the decoder comes with a speaker or not, I'm assuming it doesn't but I wanted to ask.

Thanks for your help-
Matt

[CIOR]

Matt,
You will need the decoder, 1/16" or smaller heat shrink tube (unless going with the board replacement tsunami) you will want a solid speaker (most prefer the Railmaster Hobby Bass Reflex) and depending on the size (your case you want a DSM-Medium) and then you will want a solid bulb. I use Model Power 14V bulbs, its all ready to go.

Then just follow the directions.

Its really not that hard to do it at all! have fun.

[montyvox]

Thanks Matt for help.

Is the DSM-Medium the speaker? Sometimes with DCC I feel lost!

I looked at Railmaster's speaker, and they have a wide and a narrow, so I don't know which one will be better.

Thanks again-
Matt

[CIOR]

You will want the DSM-8.
You might need to clip off the 'ears' at each end, I do this anyway with a pair of flush cut nips. Just be careful around the speaker wires.

Don't get lost, just take your time, ask questions and research it.

I've been doing DCC installs since the late 90's. I got in it early, back when hard wired was the only installation method. I believe I've installed almost all types of decoders there are. LOL.
I use to do it as a business, but gave it up.

[montyvox]

Thanks Matt for the information.

I did pick it up. Now all I need is the decoder, and then I'm in business.

Thanks again-
Matt

[CIOR]

Questions, just ask.
If you get the drop in decoder, it won't take but around 20-30 minutes to do it.

The catch comes when fitting the speaker. I've found that most Kato's have to have that bit above the truck that protects the drive, you have to cut it off to find clearance. I've not fitted sound in a SD80 so I'm not sure how you will have to do it.

Currently I have both a SD40 Kato and a U30B Atlas that I have to perform "Dremel" work on.

[Raeder]

I like the idea of a drop in decoder, that sounds like the easiest way to go. The LED's could be unsoldered from the board and reused, with appropriate resistors. The power capacitor could fit most anywhere in the shell.

As for the speaker, I'm thinking you could fit a fairly good sized on in the radiator fan area. That huge "wing" could take up to 1.1" across, if you modified the inside properly. It looks like one solid piece, but teh outside wings are hollow, and press-fitted onto the shell. The fans/fanhatch casting is one solid piece, and drops down into the shell to be removed.

When all of that is removed, cutting out sufficient room in the shell walls can be done with a Dremel and see-through fans or fan grills installed to let the sound out. Cut the sides off the fan hatch while you're attacking it with the Dremel, and reinstall it after getting it thinned down. The speaker can be installed, the "wings" modified to fit around it, and then reworking the reverse headlight, probably a surface mount LED would be your best bet here.

A good sized one would be easy to glue to the chopped-off end of the light bar, and wire back to the decoder with appropriate resistor or voltage regulator. Then wire up your speaker and test everything!

In the middle of all of this I would seriously suggest getting some Digikey A460-ND SIP pin sockets. They make great plug-and-socket harnesses for removing the shell in the future.

This is how I would approach the project, though I'm a fan of doing it the hard way if I can cram in a bigger speaker. I personally feel the high bass speakers that are available today are worth the extra work to get them in. As was already mentioned, you may be looking at some cutting and grinding to get the speaker to fit over the weight in the rear.

Here is a link to a page where somebody installed sound in their SD90. Maybe this will give you ideas on how you want to to do it.

www.trainbuddy.com/Reference/Decoding%20Engines/Sound/Kato%20SD90.htm

Good luck on your project and keep us posted on it!

Kevin

[montyvox]

Thanks for the information Kevin- that really helps out a lot.

I did get the speaker, and there will be some cutting to the housing for the fans. What's nice is that Kato made it so that cutting off a lot of the plastic for the housing of the fans and the fans will still snap fit into the shell itself.

I am going to have to replace the fans from the stock ones from Kato, since they are enclosed. I'm not sure what fan to use, but either Cannon or someone else.

Evidently Soundtraxx is coming out with a different decoder for the 710, at least that's what my favorite LHS told me the other day.

So once that's in, the more and more I look at it, it shouldn't be that bad of a job to do. Kato deos make a great model and it was easy to put a majority of the details on it.

Now I just need the decoder. Once that's done, I'll test drive it, and then I'll get some pictures up of it here and give everyone a look at it.

Thanks again-
Matt

[montyvox]

Actually, I do have one question.

In the link, the person stated that he needed to use a 510-ohm, ¼ watt resistor.

The only question is, where do I find a place to get one or two? Radio Shack, LHS?

That might be a little bit of a challenge.

Thanks
Matt

[CIOR]

I use Jameco and Mouser for my electronic sources... Radio Shack is my LAST RESORT.....

Jameco has a great catologue that they send out and you I believe can request for free, and their website is good as well...

[CIOR]

Oct 21, 2009 10:27:17 GMT -5 @laughinghippie said:

Oct 21, 2009 10:13:46 GMT -5 CIOR said:

I use Jameco and Mouser for my electronic sources... Radio Shack is my LAST RESORT.....

Jameco has a great catologue that they send out and you I believe can request for free, and their website is good as well...

Yep. And there's also the fact that a 100-pack of 1/4W resistors will only run you about $1.50 or so. And it never hurts to have resistors on hand.

LOL, I've got a drawer full of resistors. I've got another drawer of "grab bag" resistors, I have to use my ohm meter to figure them out, but hey!
Same with LED's, I bought a grab bag way back when. Got all sorts of sizes and shapes.

I love Jameco for that reason. I've used several companies over the years, but them, Mouser and Digi-Key are the best in my opinion. I even used Newark too in the past.