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Post by icghogger on Sept 29, 2009 13:31:52 GMT -5
This thread was in the Railflyer Products, but it probably belongs here. To make a Sergent coupler work in an RFMP coupler plate, here's what I do. First, I cut the coupler as shown and assemble it as usual. (careful with the super glue at this point!) Assemble the RFMP coupler plate, center punch 5/64" from inside edge, then drill #63 and tap for 00-90 Assembled coupler Spacer plates, made from .025 styrene stock, for top and bottom, drilled #55 (to clear 00-90) and cemeted to coupler plate Assembled coupler and coupler plate Coupler plate attached to GP10 (rescue build) to show position of screw (spacer plates are not yet installed in the GP10 coupler plate)
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Post by Randy Earle on Sept 29, 2009 13:54:19 GMT -5
How are you adjusting for coupler height?
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Post by icghogger on Sept 29, 2009 14:01:08 GMT -5
Coupler height is adjusted when the coupler plate is installed on the locomotive. I use a surface gage on a piece of marble flooring with the locomotive and coupler gage set up on a length of track on the marble plate. Spacer plates are used to make the fine adjustment.
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sd50f
Superintendent
Posts: 189
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Post by sd50f on Sept 29, 2009 15:00:39 GMT -5
Very cool. I might have to try that with Kadee 58's...
Timothy Dineen
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Post by icghogger on Sept 29, 2009 16:08:41 GMT -5
It should work with Kadees. The spacers inside the coupler plate help set the coupler height, so you need to mike the KD shank to get the right thickness of spacer for your application.
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Post by icghogger on Sept 30, 2009 12:10:49 GMT -5
You are right, Stan, I do not advocate this method for a Railflyer component build either. There is not enough strength in the plastic-to-metal bond to give reliable performance when pulling a heavy train. This was only an attempt to solve an immediate problem I had in my "rescue build"of the Kaslo GP10. Initially, I cemented pieces of styrene stock to either side of the RFMP coupler plate in order to fill the opening in the pilot plate and get a more prototypical look to the "face" of the locomotive. Plus, I added styrene stock on the back side to get more reinforcement. The spacers inside the shank opening add a little strength to the coupler plate to keep the screw in place, but I have not put any of this experiment to a real "smoke test". I may lung one on the first train I try to pull!
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