|
Post by wvsecondary on Aug 30, 2009 9:09:05 GMT -5
Have you ever had a loco that no matter how many times you wire it and fiddle with it no matter what you do I will not work right? I have an Overland C39-8 that I have added working ditchlights and DCC to. I am no on my 3rd TCS A6X decoder and like my 15th 1.5v bulb. 1st decoder I wrapped the bottom of the decoder with Kapton tape wired everything, checked it on track before putting completely back together and everything worked just fine. I then put everything back together and 10 seconds on the track and psst! I did not even think about the top of the decoder making contact with the brass shell. Duh! So second try I wrap the entire decoder in Kapton tape after wiring and checking. Again everything looks great and put it together and nothing at all when I put on track. After many attempts of resetting I finally determine decoder is dead. I am know ready to try again but I am so frazzled and my paint has chipped in places from having the shell off and on again and again. I love this locomotive but not sure if I will ever have it be anything other then an accessory.
|
|
|
Post by santafedan on Aug 30, 2009 15:21:06 GMT -5
How about as a boat anchor? ;D
|
|
|
Post by MONONC420 on Aug 30, 2009 20:41:13 GMT -5
Well, Michael, if it becomes too much of a hassle, I will definetley take it off of your hands. Just let me know!
Christian
|
|
|
Post by Raeder on Sept 1, 2009 21:43:01 GMT -5
Hmmm...don't know what to tell you, other than to not short things like that! (But I'm pretty sure you've already figured it out)
I would recommend switching decoders, if you aren't too attached to TCS for one reason or another. I know Digitrax decoder come pre-wrapped with heat-shrink tubing so you would have that step taken care of for you. I would also recommend going with LED's in place of the 1.5v bulbs, as the LED's will handle a mild overload before blowing. They also start acting funny and shining fairly blue if overloaded, so just looking at the light will tell you if you've got problems. If you want some help selecting LED's I have been through Digi-key's catalog a good number of times and can help you with that.
One other thing to check is to make sure you have the voltage you think you have, coming off of your DCC system. If you've done your calculations for 14VAC and you have 16, that could be a problem. I thought I'd read somewhere the TCS decoders had voltage regulators, but I don't know for sure. Even if they do have a regulator, it wouldn't hurt to install resistors with the lights, as they will keep a surge from getting through, or reduce the voltage if the regulator isn't working right.
The last thing I would recommend is to make certain your motor can rock and twist to touch the frame. I blew a decoder when the lower motor lead touched the frame. I didn't think you could blow a decoder like that, but apparently you can.
As for your paint, a light touch with an airbrush and you can probably cure that. if not, I'm sure somebody here on the board would be willing to help you with it.
Good luck,
Kevin
|
|
CIOR
Chairman
Posts: 2,046
|
Post by CIOR on Sept 3, 2009 8:24:25 GMT -5
I wouldn't go back to Digitrax.....yuk... Sorry, I'm a loyal system user and use to use their decoders in everything, but will no longer. They started putting cheap components in there and its just killed the decoder.
The TCS decoders are the best on the market right now for overall use.
I would certainly use a wrap tube in a brass engine, no biggie, just order some wrap from Digikey or Jameco. I keep a mess of it in a box for just this type application.
Also, test the voltage off the board. I've had all brands that use 1.5v outs measure higher on some decoders. As Christian knows, I had MAJOR pains with a Soundtraxx Tsunami in this circumstance and once it was traced, i just went the 14v route!
But yes, it sucks.
|
|
|
Post by graftonterminalrr on Sept 3, 2009 9:47:49 GMT -5
I've been told that NCE is the way to go, but as of yet I'm not DCC.
|
|
|
Post by wvsecondary on Sept 3, 2009 16:00:54 GMT -5
I have installed over 100 decoders and I no longer use digitrax decoders in my units. Have there system and love it but decoders are junk. My real point in this was just to say don't we all have one of those installs that just drive you crazy. And this loco through some twist of fate decided to leapt from my workbench(or maybe it was just there to long and recieved the accidental bump) and now requires major work. Ugh
|
|
CIOR
Chairman
Posts: 2,046
|
Post by CIOR on Sept 4, 2009 20:21:13 GMT -5
I've been told that NCE is the way to go, but as of yet I'm not DCC. Its a crap shoot. For as many good things, I've heard as many bad things. my experience wasn't stellar and I won't go that route. In all honesty, I've found that TCS decoders are top notch. Before I made the switch to Tsunami's, I was going the TCS route.
|
|
|
Post by Raeder on Sept 5, 2009 0:24:48 GMT -5
Hmmm...I'm kinda glad to hear your guys experience with these decoders. My LHS only stocks Digitrax, Soundtrax, and LokSound. He hasn't restocked the fleet decoder I've been needing, so I've been ordering from Tony's Train Exchange. Hate to pass by on my LHS, but if he won't order stock in, I can't buy it from him. I'm actually giving some NCE units a try on this next set of installs, both on some of my own units and a unit for another guy. That's assuming they show up sometime soon...
Sorry to hear that unit took a fall, that's never a pleasant occasion. I had a U30C hit the floor last year, blew the cab in two, cracked the shell and broke the handrails. I hadn't planned on modifying that unit just then, but it ended up in the production queue to become a U30C booster then. Turned out alright, needs some more work, but it looks good so far. Perhaps this will be a turning point for your project unit as well?
Kevin
|
|