Decals!!

[Smoke]

So lately I have been having trouble with decals settling down into cracks, over door hinges, and other small parts on a locomotive. I am doing a Southern engine and the last time I put down a stripe once the setting solution dried I had alot of air bubbles, but I also had some "spider veins". They form little lines, that are raised above the surface. I have been using Solvaset thinned 5/50 with distilled water with some alcohol mixed in. I have also tried Champs decal set and I came up with the same results. My model has received a coat of gloss. the only thing that I can think of that would be messing the process up is that I am putting the decal along the bottom of the shell. My only thought is that the solution is "escaping" from underneatht the decal and causing this. Anybody have any suggestions?

-Andrew

[johnnetzlof]

I've had people contact me with this issue before, seems the ink on the decal may not want to settle in as nicely as the film does, usually happening with stripes settling over raised details such as hinges. One solution I've heard of, but haven't personally tried, is while the setting solution is on the stripe, take a a wooden pencil with a clean erasor and VERY gently "massage" the stripe over the hinge.

Again, I've never tried this, nor have I every thinned out my solvaset, are there advantages to that, Andrew?

[wvsecondary]

I have found sometimes when this happens to use micro sol and gently dab the decal with clean cloth. This can take nerves of steel as you can not wait to long to do this or decal will disintegrate. I would not recommend with solvaset as decal gets to soft to fast.

[Smoke]

Thanks for the thought guys. I am going to try a couple different things and see what works.

Thanks again!!
-Andrew

[hotshot3305]

Mar 26, 2009 10:55:58 GMT -5 Smoke said:

So lately I have been having trouble with decals settling down into cracks, over door hinges, and other small parts on a locomotive. I am doing a Southern engine and the last time I put down a stripe once the setting solution dried I had alot of air bubbles, but I also had some "spider veins". They form little lines, that are raised above the surface. I have been using Solvaset thinned 5/50 with distilled water with some alcohol mixed in. I have also tried Champs decal set and I came up with the same results. My model has received a coat of gloss. the only thing that I can think of that would be messing the process up is that I am putting the decal along the bottom of the shell. My only thought is that the solution is "escaping" from underneatht the decal and causing this. Anybody have any suggestions?

-Andrew

Andrew, you're headed in the right direction by using the method that you describe. I use the same method and have decaled a complete Southern model without having to prick the first air bubble.

I always start with a glossy model by using Floquil Glaze thinned about 30%. When this has had time to dry, mix a one or two ounce bottle of Solvaset thinned 50 % with distilled water. To this mix add a tablespoon of 70% alcohol, no more.

If decaling a Southern model, cut the clear film under the stripe that goes over the blower housing as close to the decal color as possible. This eliminates having to push the decal down to the walkway and taking a chance of destroying the decal stripe.

Next, be sure to use distilled water to soak your decals in. You can purchase distilled water at most any grocery store.

Place the decal in the distilled water and allow to soak until the decal is almost ready to release from it's paper backing. When it's ready to remove, flood the area where the decal will sit on your model (it's good to have a good photo of the prototype in front of you so you can see where the decal goes).

Remove the decal from the water and set it on the model. Position in place and then remove the excess solution using the corner of a paper towel. Now make sure the decal is exactly where it's supposed to sit and if it is, leave it alone for at least an hour. It it need to be repositioned, add a little of the solution and reposition to where it should be, being very careful not to tear the decal.

Once the decal is dry and should you happen to see bubbles, use a NEW # 11 X-ACTO blade to prick the decal very carefully. Add another application of the Solvaset/water solution and allow it to soften and remove the bubble.

You may also encounter what we call "silvering" which is or are spots where the decal did not adhere to the model. Carefully prick the decal and then add more solution until you see the "silvering" disappear.

I like to apply several applications of the solution after the decals are in place. When applying the solution, always brush from the center of the decal to the edges and never from the edge to the center. Once you are satisfied with the decal and that it looks good, apply a couple applications of full strength Solvaset to all of the decals on your model.

After the decals are dry, carefully wash the model using warm water and dish washing liquid to remove any spots left from the decal adhesive. Either allow the model to air dry or use a hair dryer to dry the model. Apply your favorite flat coat over the entire model and allow to dry completely.

Mission accomplished.

Questions are welcomed.