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Post by liquidfantasy on Oct 30, 2008 8:23:38 GMT -5
Jeff!
First look is very good! It is very difficult to rate your own work, I know this. The feedback from others is an essential part and no matter how tough it sometimes is: Take it as a suggestion how it could be done better, and from project to project you'll notch it up a bit.
When I look a bit more into the details, it appears that it only got washes of different colors. But it lacks of intense grime or rust on certain locations, especially on the hood.
I like the idea of the covered parts, this looks VERY good! What did you use?
And also the closed windows with wood - good idea!
Did you try to apply a drybrush yet?
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Post by graftonterminalrr on Oct 30, 2008 8:43:29 GMT -5
Wow! Very nice job to an old Atlas RS11 shell. I love how you covered the rear end with that tarp... it hides the notched edges of the original shell quite nicely without having to fill them in as per MLW's practices.
Looks like a quick and easy job and an excuse to showcase your weathering talents on a non-moving model. You could place this in the foreground of any scene and it would immediately be the topic of discussion. Now I know what to do with those spare P2K Geep shell parts I have lying around. Great work!
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Post by liquidfantasy on Oct 30, 2008 11:21:06 GMT -5
don't worry about the dry brush, it's only time consuming, not difficult at all, as long as you follow some basic rules! First I suggest you to watch the video this guy posted, then I will point out some differences from his example to H0 scale locomotives: www.gamerabaenre.com/dry_brushing.htmTake a special look at the brush it self! I usually use a normal brush and cut off 50% to 60%. A brush with normal length won't allow you to archive good results! Second I suggest to use acrylic paints. You can thin them with water, clean up your brush and airbrush simple with water, and it's better for your health. Another advantage: Once you overdo something, you easily take a q-tip and some alcohol to remove it without being to aggressive to the original paint scheme. In our case, when we don't want to get a "metal" effect, we have to use much less paint then the guy!!! Use a tissue to brush off about 95% of the color you have in the brush! then slightly brush over the model and check your results. I use white for all dry brushing, but be careful with it, it is very intense! I thin it up with 50% water, this way it doesn't get too strong. If the model got a matte varnish before, the dry brush can be applied easier. Take an old non used model and practice a bit. ;-) |
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Post by cnrglen on Nov 28, 2008 22:57:01 GMT -5
It's a great model and a really good weathering job. I'd drybrush or wash some oil coming out of the louvers though, Alcos (or MLWs) teneded to blow alot of oil (and smoke) at the end of their lives.
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CIOR
Chairman
Posts: 2,046
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Post by CIOR on Dec 12, 2008 10:49:39 GMT -5
I like it, looks very convincing to me.
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Post by NCCR 2580 on Dec 14, 2008 6:55:45 GMT -5
I think it looks pretty darn good my self!  What did you use for the pastic tarps? These look really nice. I want to see some more shots of it when your done... I think we seem to critisize our own work way more than others do. I know I catch my self doing it all the time and complaining about the imperfections that show up thta may be only I reconize in photos that I did not see before. David |
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Colin
Trainmaster
Posts: 107
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Post by Colin on Jan 7, 2009 22:21:07 GMT -5
Jeff it does look good,I think I would make it look like it had been in a derailment,caught on fire,body parts missing,mount it on a flat car and headed to the main shops for repairs.
Just another dimensional load now.
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What did you use for the pastic tarps? These look really nice. I want to see some more shots of it when your done... I think we seem to critisize our own work way more than others do. I know I catch my self doing it all the time and complaining about the imperfections that show up thta may be only I reconize in photos that I did not see before. 
