b757223
Probationary Member
Posts: 2
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Post by b757223 on Mar 9, 2017 0:12:51 GMT -5
Hello all,
I'm an HO scale modeler with an interest in SP/SSW during the 1970s to 1980s period. I was inactive for awhile but all the latest offerings from different manufacturers has rekindled my interest in the hobby once again. My current ongoing project is updating/upgrading quite a few older Athearn blue box models and bringing them all into the 21st century. Seeing everyone's work on here gives me inspiration and ideas on reaching my own goal.
Thanks for having me, Rob
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Post by m a y o r 79 on Mar 9, 2017 9:23:04 GMT -5
Welcome aboard Rob! This place is a great resource, take advantage of it when you start tackling those Athearn BB projects. They can make some outstanding models with a little work (check out my Milwaukee Road TR4 build in the switchers section for an example, one of them is a very old Athearn ..... metal side frame outside bearing trucks and all).
Share some of your work when you can.
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fr8kar
Chairman
Little man raise the cotton, beer joints get the money
Posts: 309
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Post by fr8kar on Mar 9, 2017 10:04:51 GMT -5
Welcome, Rob. I'm looking forward to seeing the progress you make with your models. What will you be working on first? What models do you have planned?
I'm modeling the railroads of the Dallas-Fort Worth area in the mid to late 80s, and that includes SP and Cotton Belt power. I'm on my fourth SP/SSW model, so I'm definitely still learning. Lots of MP, BN and Santa Fe models under my belt though. Anyway, I'd love to see what you have.
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Post by icghogger on Mar 10, 2017 9:02:47 GMT -5
Welcome to the Double D, Rob, and be sure to share your progress with us when you can!!
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b757223
Probationary Member
Posts: 2
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Post by b757223 on Mar 10, 2017 14:03:19 GMT -5
Welcome, Rob. I'm looking forward to seeing the progress you make with your models. What will you be working on first? What models do you have planned? I'm modeling the railroads of the Dallas-Fort Worth area in the mid to late 80s, and that includes SP and Cotton Belt power. I'm on my fourth SP/SSW model, so I'm definitely still learning. Lots of MP, BN and Santa Fe models under my belt though. Anyway, I'd love to see what you have. I would definitely love to see your work fr8kar. Having been a young railfan growing up in the Metroplex during the 1980s I'm always interested in what is out there. Currently I'm working on an SP SD40T-2 I purchased at a train show many years ago. I plan to restore the full nose light with LEDs, plow, correct horn, tank details, handrails, and a repaint/relettering. The most time consuming portion of this job is the installation of the nose lights. Chopping into the nose terrifies me so I started with a unit that came from Athearn with the light package already molded to serve as a guide. I have an old Atlas SP SD35 that I really like but needs the correct nose light. Since that will be my first real attempt at light installation it will be the one I tackle after a lot of practice. I also have a Mopac and Frisco SD40-2 waiting to be updated, an undecorated GP40-2 I may turn into a rebuilt Helm GP38-2 with three radiator fans, and an SP 1984 Olympics SD40-2 that needs to become an SD40R.
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fr8kar
Chairman
Little man raise the cotton, beer joints get the money
Posts: 309
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Post by fr8kar on Mar 11, 2017 4:28:26 GMT -5
Cool. Sounds like we grew up in the same place around the same time. So much railroad to see back then and such a variety. Now it's either UP or BNSF with some shortlines thrown in for good measure. Looks like you're off to a good start on that SD40T-2. Doing surgery on the nose like that is much more difficult on a shell that's thick like that Athearn shell compared to cutting through a Cannon & Company nose. One benefit of the Cannon & Co. parts is you can do the work on the unassembled parts, which are much easier to handle than a complete shell. But if you want to work with an existing shell it's not that difficult. Just use a sharp blade and make very thin cuts. It takes little effort and the material comes off quickly. If you try to take off a lot of material at once, you run the risk of injuring yourself or damaging the model (I've done both). The same is true of using a dull or just an older blade. Too much pressure can cause the blade to break or cause you to lose control of the blade and cut yourself (again, I've done both). If I'm removing a large part of a shell such as a grille, I'll drill a series of small holes inside the perimeter of the area I want to remove and use a sharp blade to connect the dots to remove the majority of the part. Then I'll clean up around the opening with the blade and finish with small files or sanding sticks. Here's a link to my photo gallery: www.pbase.com/mecrharris/trainsI have everything in there from photos of the prototype to my models to RPM and Free-mo event coverage and I'm constantly updating it. There are lots of others here who are both talented and prolific modelers. It's hard not to be inspired by the models that get posted.
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Post by m a y o r 79 on Mar 11, 2017 8:14:35 GMT -5
Looking good so far Rob. That first cut is always the hardest!
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