CP 3026 & 1126 GP38 & GP35 cab unit

[ironstef70]

The project is about a pair of switchers which usually operates together. 1126 is an ex-GP35 now control cab (slug), which has been repainted in 2014 at CAD in Montreal. My intention is to redo it in it's early 2014 state, heavily weathered as here:

I was lucky to find these two units last year and despite the GP35 was broke down in parts, nothing was missing. I then found all required parts, which for most are made my Miniatures By Eric. I really like what this guy does. All parts are quality cast brass and once you get used to his websiite, he usually ships within a week. I do appreciate the fact of being able to find Canadian diesels parts without having to organize a pilgrimage in major hobby shops for chasing parts. Although I usually find most of my bulk brass material (K&S Engineering) at Hobby Junction in Montreal. 

CP1126 (Aug 2014)

These engines are typically over 20 years old, and gearboxes are usually dry, so lubrificating is the starting point for me as standard procedure. I use Labelle 106 grease for that matter, then i use a lighter oil for the truck frames suspension and axel's bearings.

In the making, I broke down all parts and repainted them individually as I usually do. The frame and body needs major modifications and detailing, before going to the paint shop.

This weekend, I soldered the CP plows to the frames, changed the bells, then started working on the cabs. I replaced exhaust stacks on the GP38, then drilled all light holes in both units. I unsoldered many parts on th GP35, some which I will reuse on a future project: an Ontario Northland SD40. Major works had to be done on the tank, as I filled it with solid iron for better traction after I soldered it and the air tanks to the frame.














To be continued ...

Stephane

[m a y o r 79]

Any updates? Its been over a week

[ironstef70]

Well here is a list of the modifications to date, so far (besides the usual required steps for brass loco rebuild: lubrification, motor insulation, wheels and separate parts repaint, straightening and reinforcing shafts and truck frames, cleaning flywheels from paint or glue drops, pre-drilling wire holes for LEDS wiring...):

CP3026 GP40: replaced exhaust stacks by CP ones, changed bell, added winterization hatch, remodeled the hand rails, added & wired ditch lights, rebuilt front anticlimber+add MU hose support, redesigned all 4 stairs, relocated headlights, instaled CP plows both ends + pair of grab irons, rebuit PAF box, replaced hoses (two pairs of three as prototypes), replaced and relocated horn & built horn support, added Sinclair antennas, relocated mirrors, removed sun shades.

CP1126 GP35: changed bell, removed and plated rear fans, remodeled hand rails, added & wired ditch lights, rebuilt all 4 stairs, relocated headlights, installed CP plows & grab irons both ends, replaced dynamic brakes grille by plate, replaced hoses (two pairs of three as prototypes), relocated horn, added Sinclair antennas, added second brake cylinder to all 4 trucks, added iron to fuel tank for increased weight and lower gravity center, removed sun shades, added mirrors, did I miss something?

Next steps (next weekend if time allows) will be paint shop for the cabs, testing the motors, and had painting consoles inner cab details.

The most obvious skill mastered during this project was how soldering or dismantling brass components using a torch, and steel blocks or plates as shields for protecting surrounding parts from falling apart. I am slowly gaining confidence in preparation of a future dream project: scratch building a brass whale tanker such as this one:

DUPX 29713


Stephane

[spike]

The GP35 likely isn't a slug. There were some one unit jobs, and they had to run reverse for a significant distance. As a result, some GP35, C424, and RS18 units were turned into cab cars.

Before the AC fleet became prevalent in the east, we used to get sets of SD40s. Once they mixed a SD40/C424 cab car in my consist.

[ironstef70]

Hmm, interesting, so can you explain how a "cab car" differs from a standard unit?

Does it still has an engine (then why has several roof fans been plated) ?

Thanks in advance

Stephane

[m a y o r 79]

Typically no engine, sometimes everything is removed and plated over and sometimes the engine block is left in place as weight. Basically all that is left functional inside is the cab with the controls.

Crews usually like them because they're much quieter than standard locos.

[spike]

Some left the guts, or some guts in for ballast. This is so they are heavy enough not to be string lined. Since the springs are designed for the weight, without they would ride rough, since there wouldn't be enough weight to deflect the springs.

They may have had some slugs, but as I have said, we had a bulletin about the conversation to cab cars. They had a extra cable from the mother's battery/aux gen. This was to supply enough power to run the heat, hot plate, and refrigerator.

I could be wrong, but as a CP employee, I only knew of the cab cars. The only slug that I saw was a SW slug, with a GP9 mother.

The time I had the cab car, it was one made from an Alco Century. That night we were in a siding for quite a while. This gave me time to snoop. The 251 was still there. There was a stencil on the tank about not filling it, as it had been purged, and steam cleaned.

[m a y o r 79]

I think the difference between a slug and cab car would be traction motors. Slugs would draw electrical power off of the "mother" unit to power traction motors. They just didn't have an engine to generate the power. Cab cars are just control platforms.

Amtrak converted a bunch of old F40PH's into cab control cars, they removed the engine blocks, cooling systems, traction motors, etc. To replace the weight the fuel tanks were filled with concrete and I believe a large concrete block was put in place of the engine. They could control the other loco in the train though. (typically used for push-pull operations).

I would imagine that's what the CP did. The cab cars likely had no power plant and had to be mated with anther loco to be used.

[spike]

The Alco had dummy wheel sets (no traction motors).

[ironstef70]

This is all interesting information for a non RR worker as I am, and will be of good help in the making if this project.
Thanks to all of you for the comments.
I am taking my time on these ones, as I want to make sure I don't miss anything. I have just re done the GP38's PAF box, as I was not satisfied wit the first attempt.
I basically went through the same process as I did for CP4524: I machined a steel part which I glued with epoxy.
The result is much sharper than the bent brass sheet I used previously.

Now I may paint the cabs soon, but probably next week as I am not home this weekend.

Pictures will follow as I am progressing.

Stephane

[CanadianRails43]

CP 1126 is most commonly known as a Control Cab, unpowered, but mated with a powered "Mother" locomotive (CP 3026) and is used as a secondary control platform for the mother unit depending on how the duo is aligned for the movement. That way, the crews can have the best visibility in both directions and stay comfortable in a proper cab.
1126 was built as GP35 CP 8202 in 1964, getting renumbered to 5002 shortly after. It was converted to a control cab in 1996. That saw the removal of all traction motors, engine, and other components except for lights and cab controls. Therefore it's not a slug despite looking like one. Some Control Cabs may have the gutted engine block left in the hood as a weight, but that would be about all.
As spike mentioned, CP has had slugs, most if not all are retired by now. However they were numbered as 1000-1002, 1010-1025 (except 1017). Most were all aging SWs.

This should be an interesting build! Look forward to seeing future progress!

[ironstef70]

Well, another guess was invited to join the party: CP 1428 MP15AC.
I bought it as a Milwaukee Road custom project, which paint job was just average to say the least. But I stripped the paint out, tuned the shafts and gearboxes & insulated the motor as usual, then made a few mods such as plating the side cab windows (as STD CP MP15s) and adding a real strobe+LED to the roof (in lieu of the original cast brass version). This has delayed the current project a little bit, but it will make better sense process wise, as the same paint colors are required.

I am also in need of good switchers, as I have recently experimented interesting operation sessions at other RR clubs and looking forward for more for 2017. This will make two pairs of CP switchers for some yard fun to come.

I may have a couple pictures before X-mas.

Stephane

[spike]

We can't wait to see the MP15, and the GP38 and cab car.

The cab car program was foolish, in my opinion. After the retirement of the Alcos, where the C424, and RS18s were the last, they were short of 4 axle power. They got the ex Boston and Maine GP40-2, and some others. The GP35s could have easily been made into GP38 clones. They likely have many spare 645E blocks around, and could have updated the poor GP35 transition circuit, especially since they would now have less power.

[ironstef70]

Well in the state 1126 was in August 2014, it's still great that they have maintained it in good shape. At this point, I am hesitant between that beaten look it had in early 2014, and the brand new color scheme (the shiny look of freshly painted cabs makes me wonder).

CP1126 (Aug 2014)

Oh well, the first idea is always the best, and it sounds like an interesting weathering challenge.  If that works great, it will draw attention in future operation sessions.
Not visible on the pictures: I thinned the paint enough for the winter hatch grille so the fan remains visible though it. I will then hand paint the fans so they show even more. 

The door plan for the MP15 was successful: we have an opening door with real hinge. The downfall is they are somewhat bold, a compromise I was willing to make since they won't be much visible if the door is left opened. I thought about soldering the hinges from the inside, but it may not have open properly. And I wanted the door to be tight in a closed position, which it is. I will show detailed pictures once the whole project is completed.

I may put decals this weekend, but then take a pause for a week due to holidays. But I will keep this tread alive as I am progressing.

Stephane

[ironstef70]

Little progress, but all cabs are almost completed.

Most recent works were mostly on the cabs: decals+sealed (you can actually compare CP 1126 to my avatar...), hand painted details (including fans), wired LEDs in then tested, also insulated all motors, then strengthened shafts& validated their lengths.

I then polished the flywheels and re-soldered wires to electrical pickups, which were also re-shaped.

Next steps are weathering (and painting top) of cabs, then adding windows, painting cab interiors.

Frames need additional details (ditch lights, handrails), then completing frames paint+ decals sealing, hand painting consoles and seats, installing decoders, wiring and connecting ditch lights.

S.

[ironstef70]

So here is a little more progress on the frames.
I decided to redo the vertical steps (I believe they're called Canadian steps*), not being satisfied with he previous attempt.

I used .020" brass sheet for the scratchbuild. The most critical area was to make sure the square holes are all properly aligned with the original steps, as these were soldered over them. The eight steps for both units took me over a day, but at last they are as prototypes.
The GP35 handrails suffered the handling in the making, but have been soldered back in position since, in a stronger fashion.

* It would be interesting to know the purpose of these over the standard ones. I am guessing it is related to safety vs snow and ice, this design being vertical and requiring less maintenance... If someone knows, please confirm.





In the meantime, I also had to do maintenance on an AJIN Dash-8 gearbox. CN2111 Dash8-40CM could not barely pull in reverse position due to something that felt like gear slippage from the front end main gearbox. I figured out that one plastic connector to the main shafts (far left on picture) has worn on the top gear shaft (second part from left).
 
I machined the small shaft end, then added epoxy for the fix and it runs like new. The plastic part is usually the weakest link, just as the cutter pins in a snowblower. If things go wrong, you rather want this part be breaking than the gearbox.

[m a y o r 79]

I would guess the Canadian steps were meant to keep snow and ice from building up on the step treads but that's just a guess on my part.

[ironstef70]

A quick update here.
CP3126 and 1428 are gone to a friend for the programming of the decoders (Loksound). All they will need then are minor touch ups and a speed matching session.

In the meantime, I have been working on this unit. Test run was successful with all lights functioning and no shorts issue. It will also need to be speed matched to other units of my fleet eventually.
More paint fading is needed, then additional weathering details but the most is done.

I should be able to post good pictures and make a video within two weeks or so.

Stephane

[spike]

The project really came out well. Good job!

[simulatortrain]

That looks great!