RPP GP35 shell on P2K GP30 chassis

[acollins]

Hey folks,

While brain storming and looking at the prices of KATO GP35s on ebay I came up with the thought of using a Kato or Athearn RTR GP35 shell on a P2K GP30 chassis.

While I can't seem to locate any of the mentioned shells, I did stumble across some RPP shells. They are a bit out dated but I feel that with some cannon and other parts I could turn my badly beat up P2K GP30s into good looking GP35s.

Any thoughts or comments are welcome.

Thanks,

Alex

[Packer]

The RTR GP35 shell will fit on the proto frame without the weight. some grinding will have to be done to use the weight. I've experimented with it, but never went through with it. Yet

Maybe I should make an ex-frisco GP35 out of my beat up RTR GP35 shell and P2K GP30 frame with AAR trucks.

[deez]

From what I've seen on eBay, the Kato GP35's seem to be the more reasonably priced Kato diesels. You simply can't go wrong buying a Kato GP35. Recently, I had to use two Kato GP35 phase IIc shells with Atlas "SDP" steam equipment ends to make two UP SDP35's. Idk how Atlas missed the late phase radiator grills on UP & L&N SDP's. So the Kato shells stepped in and their drives went under P2K GP30's. For what you would pay to buy then soup up an RPP shell you could buy a decent used Kato GP35 and have a quality drive also. I think the Kato RS2 trucks or just the sideframes will swap with their GP35's trucks for the AAR setup.

[acollins]

Deez,

I was just looking for a way to replace the beat up shells on my GP30s. I bought 3 of them for $75 and the shells leave alot to desire.

I looked on ebay and the cheapest GP35 I was about to find was $70. While a good price I'm still wanting to use up what I have already before I add more.

Could you explain a bit more on the SDP35s grills? I just picked up a SCL and a UP one to paint into my fictional EOQ paint.

Thanks,

Alex

[deez]

Alex, Atlas made a great SDP35 if you model the pre'65 versions. While they do make their SD35's with late phase radiator grills they failed to make their SDP35's with the same late grills. UP and L&N bought late phase SDP35's. The easiest way for me to remake the late phase units is to take Kato GP35 phase IIc shells that also have the late rad. grills and add the steam equipment rear from the Atlas SDP shell. SD35's have a stretched radiator section while the SDP version is the same as a GP35 hood with the steam equipment added to the rear. That's how they fit on the same length frame. The hand rail spacing also changed. Your SCL unit should be fine but the UP is different according to its phase.

You would probably have better luck finding P2K GP30 shells to replace yours over waiting for Kato 35's shells to show up for sale at a good price. They seem to be getting more rare and costly these days.

[acollins]

Interesting info. I had purchased them to make them into ECO rebuilds with HEP so the grills don't really bother me. But that is fascinating none the less.

Could you possibly give some good tips on doing that sort of fine cut and adding back on? I'm planning on using GP30 walkways to make two of my GP20s ex SP that have the GP30 style sill notch.

Thanks

Alex

[deez]

I have to correct myself on the Kato shell phase. It's a phase Ic not IIc.
As far as making my better cuts or making accurate cuts, I do not do them with a hobby saw. I score my line with the typical hobby knife blade but then I use a large flat blade. Like a no. 17 or 18. I push down into the score pull up and move down the score line pushing into the plastic. kato plastic shells are tough too. Be patient and use a new blade for sure lol. Anyways I work down the score line and shortly the blade works its way through and into a wood block I have place up inside the shell. This method has worked very well for me and I just clean up any imperfections on the separated piece with a sanding stick. Here is an UP SD40-2SS I did this type of cutting on. The shell is. Kato SD40-2 with an Athearn SD50 top. Lengthened C&C radiator grills and -2 end. The 8th door is also pieces cut from a Kato shell.

[deez]

Hey Alex, I was also at one time considering doing one of the late phase GP18's which have that same GP30/35 sill. This conversion can be done fairly easily but one thing you have to modify is the steps. While the GP30/35 steps are angled on one side of the steps. The GP18/20 got the notch but still used the older straight sided steps like all earlier phases and earlier models i.e. GP7/9's. I have some Kato GP35 sills to experiment with.

[acollins]

Craig,

That is wonderful info. Great job on the UP SD by the way.

What I had envisioned in my head was using the GP20 sill and cutting the piece out of the GP30 to graft on the GP20 sill. The GP20s are brand new and the GP30 sills I have the steps are write offs.

I think your score method will work better than the saw idea I had. The only issue I see is when I go to cut the side of the sill. It's going to flex but I suppose if I keep the pressure to a minimum and patience like you suggested I think it will work.

Thanks again!

Alex

[deez]

You know what. I bet you could cut the steps off of the GP20. Like right at the beginning of the sill on each side. Do the same on the GP30's but you absolutely have to do this one end at a time. Mate the GP20 steps to the GP30 sills. Doing one end at a time will keep the sills straight. Plus when you put the GP20 shell on, each end will sit in its correct opening and you'll know you got it right when the shell sits over the opening correctly. If you take a look at my GM&O 950 SD40X build I did the same conversion using Kato SD40 steps on an Atlas Master SD35 sill. I even did this with my KCS SD40X and NW SD50S sills by using Athearn SD50 steps mated to Kato SD40-2 sills. It's easier than you might think, comes out correct and looks really good.

[acollins]

That would work but then there are the blower ducts on each side of the long hood, plus the battery box and cab base locations would need to be addressed. I think it would be simpler to just do using the gp20 sill mostly. Great idea though. I have a few GP38-2s that need steps as well. Might try that with them.

Alex

[deez]

You're right the GP30's do have the blower ducts on both sides. Forgot that one. The battery boxes are mounted to the sill on all P2k models also I'm pretty sure. Bummer that's way more work. I have a Diesel Era book on the SD24 and GP20. There is HO scale drawings of the late phase GP20's in there. It's a wonderful book too. One could make a template of the sills for that cut also. I want to use the drawings for making fish belly frames too. GP20/18's are the last GP models with 31' bolster centers. The GP30/35 have 32' bolster centers so the fish belly part is a little longer. The locomotive encyclopedia book I have has the GP30 drawings. Adding the sill center shouldn't be complicated either. It'll be a cool conversion. 

[acollins]

I just picked up a copy of the Diesel Era book myself. Haven't had a chance to read it yet. I will be starting on the first sill this weekend, looking forward to it.

Thanks for the advice and input on it Craig.

Alex