BNSF Orange problems

[santafedan]

I'M AT MY WITS END HERE! I took a P2K GP30 and turned it into a GP39M. I want to finish it in the BNSF "New Image" scheme. My problem is I can't get Floquil (BNSF), Tamiya (F6) or Scalecoat (BNSF) to give me a good orange color. Whether I thin it or not the Floquil and the Tamiya tend to pull away from door details and the primer bleeds through even after a second coat. The Scalecoat obscures the door details. I have never liked using Modelflex paint because of inconsistent finishes. I'm now stripping this loco for the second time and am about ready to just paint it in BNSF green & black patch. If that doesn't work I'll throw up. That might cover it!

Any BNSF painters out there who might have a suggestion?

SantaFeDan

[Randy Earle]

I've heard of guys putting a few drops of alcohol in modelflex to make it vaporize quicker. I pretty much use enamel still.

[Smoke]

The lighter colors of modelflex are really hard to paint with. I just painted a white frame stripe and it took me forever. I think that the whites and such are too thin and when you spray them on they barely cover anything, which is probably the problem the Dan was talking about.

What are you thinning your Floquil, Tamiya and Scalecoat with?

[liengineerbob]

You will also find that if you paint light colors (white, yellow, orange or reds) over bare plastic it will be next to impossible to get good coverage. I always prime the body shell first with a coat of Tamiya grey or white primer.

It is a semi-lacquer based primer and covers excellent, and works even better when you have many types of "media" (plastic/brass/resin, etc) on your model. It is available in a bottle or a spray can.

When I do light colors, I ALWAYS place a light coat of white (or use the white primer) under reds/yellow and oranges. The results will be remarkably more successful and different.

[RunningExtra]

I use bright silver as a primer on any area that is getting Katy yellow, works much better than grey primer, might give that a try for painting the orange area.

[santafedan]

Thanks for the suggestions, guys! But, I think this project is going to be shelved for awhile. It's too frustrating and it's keeping me from other projects. I'll keep these in mind when I get back to it. Again, thanks!

SantaFeDan

[antlorch]

I use the Polyscale orange without having any coverage problems and I thin it with distilled water.....but I alwya put a base coat on usually light grey but i think I am going to use a off white this time.I have never heard of the silver thing but I am interested in trying that also.......

[icghogger]

I have to echo the primer advice. White primers work the best for me when shooting light colors (however, I have not tried the bright silver, Scott, I may try it next time I shoot yellow or red). The benefit of using white or light gray is that you can see the coverage as it goes on, especially in tight spots. Always plan on shooting more than one coat of light colors, as pigments vary from color to color. Plus, it is better to lay down two or more coats (with sufficient drying time between coats) than trying to do it in one heavy coat. As Jay mentioned, check your pressure and test your pattern on some primed scrap.

[nhjj4]

What I have used in the past is a light coat of pactra or some silver paint thinned well. It covers well & doesnt cover up the detail. If Kit bashing it will show you where you need to fill / sand or work harder to get right B4 the top coat goes on. And that means less paint= better detail showing through.
Jim

[mrlfan]

I have used Scalecoat 2 BNSF orange on at least 25 engines. I have never had any issues with it. I have always shot it over a gray primer on each engine. I thin it with Scalecoat 2 thinner also. I am now using plain old laquer thinner from Wal Mart to thin all of my paints and with great success. I haven't had any customers complain yet. I usually shoot it in 3 thin coats. Good luck. Glenn