Post by rdg5310 on Apr 3, 2009 0:50:30 GMT -5
Thanks to all for the comments. Finally, I'm adding some updates to this project. I added detail part numbers for those thinking about doing this build. Listed below are the parts in this pic.
Cannon & Company
2155 Air reservoirs
1301 Inertial filter
1352 Inertial hatch
1704 Radiator grille
Details Associates
2402 EMD exhaust
Details West
198 Prime 1 air filter
For the rear
Conductors side
You can see I added fuel cutoff valves. I did this using .020 x .020 styrene. I used liquid cement to weld these to the body. I then used DA 1507 Mu receptacle blanks to make the outer plate of the cutoff switch. I will drill a small hole in each one to look like the kill button.
Cab View
I'm just showing that you have to use .040 styrene to fill the gap before installing the Cannon assembly.
Under the deck
I used various strips of styrene to support the Cannon air tanks. I wanted to make sure they held up to someone gripping and squeezing the sides. I'm sure your all aware of how abusive others are. I also added styrene strips to the top where the non-dynamic is. This helped me keep the parts aligned while welding the half's together. I used an old Athearn GP38-2 hatch. The one that came with this model must of been the first run for Athearn. It was horrible looking. I do believe these are much nicer now. It was much easier to detail the Athearn over the RPP. You don't have to grind off grilles or open the radiator fan holes. I have more updates following.
Cannon & Company
2155 Air reservoirs
1301 Inertial filter
1352 Inertial hatch
1704 Radiator grille
Details Associates
2402 EMD exhaust
Details West
198 Prime 1 air filter
For the rear
Conductors side
You can see I added fuel cutoff valves. I did this using .020 x .020 styrene. I used liquid cement to weld these to the body. I then used DA 1507 Mu receptacle blanks to make the outer plate of the cutoff switch. I will drill a small hole in each one to look like the kill button.
Cab View
I'm just showing that you have to use .040 styrene to fill the gap before installing the Cannon assembly.
Under the deck
I used various strips of styrene to support the Cannon air tanks. I wanted to make sure they held up to someone gripping and squeezing the sides. I'm sure your all aware of how abusive others are. I also added styrene strips to the top where the non-dynamic is. This helped me keep the parts aligned while welding the half's together. I used an old Athearn GP38-2 hatch. The one that came with this model must of been the first run for Athearn. It was horrible looking. I do believe these are much nicer now. It was much easier to detail the Athearn over the RPP. You don't have to grind off grilles or open the radiator fan holes. I have more updates following.