atlas kato rs11

[trev]

I have one of these which is a very good runner. However, the front two lugs which connect the body to the chassis have broken off, as a consequence the body rides too high.  Is there anything that I can do to correct this? I have looked around for a spare body but cannot seem to locate any.

Thanks

[hansenrp]

I've run into this a couple of times. It's not all that difficult to remedy if you studythe remaining lugs. You can duplicate these fairly easily with a bit of styrene clued the the inside of the shell and built out to match the original plane of the missing lug.Failing that, you can watch eBay for a spare shell. Atlas does not listthe RS11 shell as being available, but you can call them to see if they have any laying around. I have been pleasantly surprised a couple of times when I've called looking for parts not listed on their website.http://www.atlasrr.com/hoparts.htm
good luck.
Richard

[iomalley]

The body shouldn't ride high if there is a tab(s) missing. check the alignment tabs that are supposed to go into slots beside the motor cradle. They sometimes fold over and prohibit the shell from nestling in proper.

I have another suggestion for mounting your body that I do all the time. The purpose for the body and deck being separate pieces, is merely for moulding purposes. There's no need for each to remain a separate piece. I glue the deck to the body to form one piece, and cut all the body lugs off. Installing the couplers is now the only thing that holds the shell on, and makes it much easier to service, and doesn't put your handrails at risk when you attempt to remove the shell.

Of course I must qualify, that I hold and carry ALL my locos by craddling the fuel tank, as excessive handling by the body results in finger oil contamination (of custom paint) and wearing of paint/weathering away from the top of the hood or dyn brake bulge. I would suggest making this a habit!

[hansenrp]

Sean, what you say is true for the newer Atlas "China" RS11's, however older Atlas/Kato model has the couplers mounted to the walkway only. Removing the tabs from the Atlas/Kato model will leave the shell unconnected from the chassis. It shouldn't be a big deal, as long as you are mindful when picking it up! I like the idea of gluing the body and walkway together - those handrails, oh those handrails!

[trev]

Thanks fellas, I'll give atlas a call and if unsuccessful will try the other methods suggested

[iomalley]

Feb 12, 2015 14:58:19 GMT -5 hansenrp said:

Sean, what you say is true for the newer Atlas "China" RS11's, however older Atlas/Kato model has the couplers mounted to the walkway only. Removing the tabs from the Atlas/Kato model will leave the shell unconnected from the chassis. It shouldn't be a big deal, as long as you are mindful when picking it up! I like the idea of gluing the body and walkway together - those handrails, oh those handrails!

IIRC, the 'ol Japan RS11 would still keep the shell on with the deck mounted couplers, although you have to put a small block of styrene on the end of the chassis to take up the gap as you could lift the deck up 1/4" until the Kadee 5 coupler boxes contacted the frame.  If you bent the deck up with couplers on, it would come off (but sometimes broke if you bent too much)

In reality, for a proper RS11, you should be using an RS32/36 deck and frame, as the early Atlas Japan RS11s used a too short RS3 chassis.  The rule of thumb is if the leaf springs on the trucks line up with the jack pads on the sill, its Made in Japan (like the Deep Purple album) if the leaf springs are ahead of the pads (under the cab) then its a later made in china, and has been corrected.

[trev]

Okay, have checked the lugs on the motor cradle and they are fine. The model states "made in Japan" but the jacking pads line up with the truck leaf springs. I am beginning the think that its the metal chassis that is at fault as when everything is back together again , unlike the rear end where the chassis is practically invisible looking sideways on, the front appears to get progressively lower from the fuel tank to the pilot. At the pilot end I can definitely see about 3mm of the frame exposed.

[trev]

Problem appears to be solved at long last. I glued the body to the plastic walkway, when it was all dry I placed the body on the chassis back to front, still had a problem getting it to sit even, then I had a inspiration(?), I removed the weights.......and hey presto everything hunkey dorey. Might have been the weights all along not sitting properly. As I have a very small layout (not yet finished) the lack of loco weight isnt too much of a problem.

Anyway, thanks for your input and help chaps.....