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Post by Kiro on Apr 22, 2014 13:31:33 GMT -5
Anyone can provide some guidance about where to connect lights AUX 1 (green), AUX 2 (purple) and Common (blue) from a Loksound 8 pin decoder in an Athearn RTR DCC board?
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Post by Mark R. on Apr 22, 2014 15:10:24 GMT -5
Unless you are using the original 1.5 volt bulbs in your engine, you will need to replace that board or modify it. As you can see on the edge, it says DCC/LAMP BD - this board is regulated for their 1.5 volt bulbs and will not work with LEDS. The purple wire on the Loksound decoder will be at track voltage and is not regulated - same with the green wire. When using the 8-pin plug, I find it much easier to snip the green wire from the plug and wire it direct as with the purple wire. If you want to use LEDs or 12 volt bulbs with the white and yellow pads, you will have to modify the board. Instructions can be found here .... home.comcast.net/~mjmx/athearn.htmPersonally, I find it much simpler to scrap that board altogether and hardwire everything in place. Getting rid of the factory board also frees up some valuable space as well. Mark.
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Post by Kiro on Apr 23, 2014 12:52:14 GMT -5
Thank you
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Post by followingdadssteps on Jan 8, 2016 15:50:59 GMT -5
Unless you are using the original 1.5 volt bulbs in your engine, you will need to replace that board or modify it. As you can see on the edge, it says DCC/LAMP BD - this board is regulated for their 1.5 volt bulbs and will not work with LEDS. The purple wire on the Loksound decoder will be at track voltage and is not regulated - same with the green wire. When using the 8-pin plug, I find it much easier to snip the green wire from the plug and wire it direct as with the purple wire. If you want to use LEDs or 12 volt bulbs with the white and yellow pads, you will have to modify the board. Instructions can be found here .... home.comcast.net/~mjmx/athearn.htmPersonally, I find it much simpler to scrap that board altogether and hardwire everything in place. Getting rid of the factory board also frees up some valuable space as well. Mark. Mark im also interested in putting leds as ditch lights, i have tried the link but does not work (404 ERROR message) is there another link that you can provide. Also im pretty good at soldering what resistors would i have to remove, im assuming the little black ones on the far edges next were we plug in the lights. is this correct? Thanks for your help Andrew
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Post by followingdadssteps on Jan 8, 2016 15:54:13 GMT -5
Mark or is it the R6 and R7 on the top edges
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Post by Mark R. on Jan 9, 2016 9:57:58 GMT -5
The R6 and R7 resistors are used as a dummy load for the two bridge rectifiers located at each end (comprised of the four black diodes) which gives the Athearn bulbs a steady diet of 1.4 volts regardless of track voltage. If you are still using any of the original Athearn bulbs, do not remove / modify any of these components. You will note the two soldering holes located next to the green and purple wire of the 9-pin socket are not not connected to anything on the board itself - they are strictly a soldering point for external wiring. Look at the included photo. The "green" and "Violet" function wire connections are the small solder points in the red circles. The "blue" (or + wire for LEDs) is the + in the RED circle, NOT the blue circle. Also, these connections give full voltage so you need to add resistors. Mark.
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Post by followingdadssteps on Jan 9, 2016 13:54:04 GMT -5
Thank You so much Mark I appreciate it a lot.
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Post by CanadianRails43 on Jan 10, 2016 17:25:38 GMT -5
I try to stay away from the RTR light boards since they are just simply not made to light LEDs. I'll throw in a Kato board instead, since they are LED friendly and have the proper resistors built in. Only if I'm using an 8-pin or 9-pin(with a JST to 8-pin adapter) decoder. Just my preference
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