Replacement #80s

[EMDX6043]

Maybe it's common knowlege but I just figured this out...

Out of #80s? Broke the last one at 10pm on a Sunday? Use a sewing needle-just clip the end off (eyelet?) and chuck it tightly in a pin vise with maybe 1/8" left to work with. It will produce a decent friction fit for grab irons and eyebolts. I'm using standard Tichy 18" drop-type grabs and DA eyebolts.

I am however working on an older Athearn with molded-on grabs, so once they've been chiseled off, the slight 'mound' of plastic from the needle isn't very noticeable. It might not be so inconspicuous on other units with drilling dimples, but I was in a tight spot and this method gave me decent results.

Be governed accordingly...

[icghogger]

Good Idea, Mike!! I've done the same with a piece of piano wire (after I broke my last #76 bit).

[zakc]

It also works with a .015 piano wire

[stevef45]

i know its a stretch, but are there high quality #80 bits out there?

[NS91]

Jan 1, 2013 20:37:34 GMT -5 stevef45 said:

i know its a stretch, but are there high quality #80 bits out there?

I don't think so. They're so fragile between my dad and I we've broken at least 10 in the last two years. I usually use a #78 or #79 to drill for grabs.

[stevef45]

10 in 2 years? dam, I've done close to that in a month.

[santafemikie]

Hi Guys!

While all of these methods are ways of dealing with the problem. They are not a solution. There are a few different ways to break a bit. Most have to do with speed and side loading. Always use an awl or needle point to mark to the hole location. I use a multi speed Dremel with a Micro Mark three jaw chuck. The secret is the Dremel speed control box which I set so that the slowest Dremel tool speed is slow enough to watch the flutes go around. At this speed, you can gently slow down the chuck with your finger tip for further control. Make sure you keep backing out the drill to keep the bit clear. Use one bit for plastic only so it stays sharp. You will find that this works well with #78 bits also. I have had extremely good luck since I got the control box.

Good Luck, Mike

[Arved]

Jan 2, 2013 18:09:03 GMT -5 santafemikie said:

Hi Guys!

While all of these methods are ways of dealing with the problem. They are not a solution. There are a few different ways to break a bit. Most have to do with speed and side loading. Always use an awl or needle point to mark to the hole location. I use a multi speed Dremel with a Micro Mark three jaw chuck. The secret is the Dremel speed control box which I set so that the slowest Dremel tool speed is slow enough to watch the flutes go around. At this speed, you can gently slow down the chuck with your finger tip for further control. Make sure you keep backing out the drill to keep the bit clear. Use one bit for plastic only so it stays sharp. You will find that this works well with #78 bits also. I have had extremely good luck since I got the control box.

Good Luck, Mike

That's how Dave Hussey taught me to do it 20 years ago. I hate name dropping, but I have to give credit where credit is due.

For a nearly indestructible drill bit, try the carbide drills from Drill Bit City. I'll save a bit (no pun intended) and buy the resharpened bits. These bits are a lot less fiddly than jobber bits.



Standard disclaimer: I have no financial interest in Drill Bit City other than as a satisfied customer of over 20 years.

[lajmdlr]

BLMA sells #80 bits & they are supposed to be very strong.

[m a y o r 79]

Jan 2, 2013 17:37:06 GMT -5 stevef45 said:

10 in 2 years? dam, I've done close to that in a month.

LOL I've done that on one car before!  Granted that was my signal that it was time to put the car down. 

I've used the ones from Drill Bit City and they tend to last a while.  I think its more just being really careful with them because they are so thin and fragile.