dtinut
Chairman
Modeling the DT&I of the 60's & 70's
Posts: 661
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Post by dtinut on Dec 18, 2008 10:32:19 GMT -5
I finally got these photos uploaded to photobucket. Tony Sisson took the pics of the un painted models last spring at the NC RPM Meet. I made a lot of modifications to the model: Milled the frame so I could build the channel frame squared the fuel tank made new mount for the horn added correct horizontal healight with visors added correct access door on engineers side of cab added all lift lugs, door handles and grab irons from wire added the access doors on rear of hood detailed the trucks - should probably buy the newer frames from Atlas with the seperate details for the brake cylinders... redetailed the pilots - this was the biggest challenge I think, because I started with the old Japan version of model, which had the couplers mounted to the pilots/walway, which made them kind of weak. I milled some pieces od steel so the couplers could be frame mounted. - I also built custom coupler boxes which hold the buffers for the couplers - I really did not like the blob of material that Atlas used to represent this, and there is so much detail around these when looking at photos. Lots of little pieces went into these, but I like the end results. The only real issue is the handrails are oversized, and I just haven't gotten around to drilling them out to make new ones from brass wire. I don't know if the newer models have finer handrails than the originals, maybe if so, I'll just order a set of the newer handrails some day. I will post more photos of the model soon, as I need to weather it before trying to take any pics of the model since the black hides all the details. Regards, Brian
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Post by redp on Dec 18, 2008 11:06:52 GMT -5
Hey, thats looking good. It gives me some ideas for the 2 c425s I have sitting on a shelf. P
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Post by Randy Earle on Dec 18, 2008 12:25:10 GMT -5
Really nice Brian, all it needs it that brake chain tube.
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dtinut
Chairman
Modeling the DT&I of the 60's & 70's
Posts: 661
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Post by dtinut on Dec 18, 2008 13:32:48 GMT -5
Randy, it is there... I added it last, just before painting - very fragile item. The trucks have wheel slip modulators on all exles on firemans side, and a speed recorder on the engineers side. I will do the weathering on this soon, and post some more pics of it. Here is a close up shot showing the frame and coupler pocket a bit better. Regards, Brian
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Post by Randy Earle on Dec 18, 2008 18:37:30 GMT -5
Can't wait to see it.
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Post by NCCR 2580 on Dec 18, 2008 20:19:40 GMT -5
This should turn out to be a great looking model! Great job so far I should say! Very nice work! David
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dtinut
Chairman
Modeling the DT&I of the 60's & 70's
Posts: 661
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Post by dtinut on Dec 19, 2008 1:36:01 GMT -5
Stephen, Not too many of the C425's got the Red P, the few that were in this series did not. I am actually speaking more about the particular phase of unit this one is, vs the class. Tom Haagt did a really nice PC unit of same phase numbere 2417, which didn't have any makings on the hood sides. As they say - work from photos. I decided to take a few more pics tonight, so here they are... Brian
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dtinut
Chairman
Modeling the DT&I of the 60's & 70's
Posts: 661
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Post by dtinut on Dec 19, 2008 1:37:27 GMT -5
Hmm, just noticed I have yet to add the windshield wipers... Need to do that before I weather it.
B-)
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Post by NCCR 2580 on Dec 19, 2008 1:54:26 GMT -5
Very nice job! Those grab irons look good... I really like how you built up the coupler pockets. That makes the pilots! Need more shots after you weather this thing... David S.
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Post by Randy Earle on Dec 19, 2008 1:56:56 GMT -5
Very nice build Brian. I've gotta add that brake tube on my projects also, I did buy some brass tube for it.
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Post by ricnok on Dec 19, 2008 8:34:18 GMT -5
It is amazing what you notice taking photos and then looking at the model that way. Nice work Brian
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Post by liquidfantasy on Dec 29, 2008 9:10:44 GMT -5
sweet unit! very good looking
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CIOR
Chairman
Posts: 2,046
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Post by CIOR on Dec 30, 2008 12:06:22 GMT -5
Nice job Brian.
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bcrmlw
Superintendent
Posts: 186
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Post by bcrmlw on Jan 30, 2009 17:02:21 GMT -5
Brian, Nice work! What did you use for the air filter? I'm gonna guess you turned it out of styrene or something....
-Trevor
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Post by Randy Earle on Mar 12, 2009 23:50:18 GMT -5
Brian, did you finally finish this one with wipers?
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dtinut
Chairman
Modeling the DT&I of the 60's & 70's
Posts: 661
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Post by dtinut on Mar 14, 2009 0:31:15 GMT -5
Hi Trevor,
>Nice work! Thanks...
> What did you use for the air filter? I'm gonna guess you turned it out of styrene or something.... Actually, that is a DW part - it's an early EMD airfilter like what you'd find on a 30/35. I have also made these by turning a piece of leftover sprue, when I ran out of the part.
Brian
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dtinut
Chairman
Modeling the DT&I of the 60's & 70's
Posts: 661
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Post by dtinut on Mar 14, 2009 0:46:00 GMT -5
Randy,
Yeah, I know you want me to show you how to make the brake cable tube... I just am not working on anything right now that requires one.
What I would suggest: For durability - look to see if you can find brass tubing of the appropriate size. Maybe the ink tube from a pen or such... Use some .019" brass wire - and drill a couple holes thru the tube at the top (where it will be near the bottom of the side sill on the loco) Solder the wire to the tube. File and smooth the joint if it shows on the front side that will face out. On the bask side of the tube, drill a small hole near the end of the tub where the chain will hang out. Find some multi-strand wire, and strip of the insulation. You are looking fire wire in the .005-.008" size.
Using your favorite hobby chain, take a length, and loop some of the wire thru the last loop of the chain, then feed it thru the end of the tube and out the hole (well, maybe easier to go the other way...) - this is what keeps the chain to the end of the tube.
Figure out where you want the tube to be located, and drill a couple holes in the frame, that you can then glue the wires you soldered to the tube into. You can then figure out how to place the tube (wire allows you to bend it to the right position looking at it from the side.
Once you have it looking good from the side, look at it from the bottom, to see if it is in line with the outer edge of the sill.
Once you are happy, apply glue to wires into the frame to lock it in place.
Install the trucks now. Drill a small hole in the rear brake lever on the truck. Use the same wire you used to attach the chain to the tube to attach the chain to the truck. Check the truck for swing. Trim chain to correct length, and twist the connection wire a couple time, and trim it off with sprue nippers on both ends of the chain.
Paint it black.
That's basically how I did it.
Brian
PS - Nope, haven't touched this model since I took photos of it. Painting several cabs for a friend, and working on other things has kept me from getting back to it. Still needs the wipers (several models do actually) and weathering....
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Post by redp on Mar 14, 2009 7:32:55 GMT -5
I have a couple of 425s I havnt gotten to yet. Thanks for the idea about the chains. P
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Post by Randy Earle on Mar 14, 2009 23:08:41 GMT -5
Thanks Brian! I've got the tubing. If ya look at the pic below you might see the problem I have. The way I built the engine I can't mount the tube to the shell and I cut off the top of the Atlas frame to make room for the I Beams. I found an article where somebody builds a Reading C424 in Model Railroader a few years back and the builder used 1/16 brass tubing. I bought the tubing but trying to figure out how to mount it to the chassis I built for my C430 is the stumbling block I've run into. I'll figure it out, but it may take a while. Your information helped me a lot. I have tubing and parts sitting in my work area. I made those Reading Gutters today and got sidetracked. It just looks naked without the brake stuff doesn't it?
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Post by rdg5310 on Mar 14, 2009 23:55:35 GMT -5
Yup!!
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