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Post by jbconn on Jul 29, 2012 21:37:06 GMT -5
I'm rescuing an Atlas GP40-2W I bought on eBay. When it arrived, it looked as if it was painted with finger paint using a q-tip, After I stripped all the paint (much touger than finger paint, whatever it was), I had to chisel off the gobs of airplane glue. The chiseling, unfortunately left fine gouges on the cab roof and blower housing. They weren't too noticeable until I put a coat of primer on.
Before priming, I tried filling them with white squadron putty, but it sanded right back out. Any suggestions on how to fill them? Is there a finer-textured filler anyone can recommend?
The blower housing is going to get a nice decal, unfortunately right next to the scratches, so it will draw attention.
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Post by shoofly on Jul 30, 2012 0:01:37 GMT -5
Gunze Mr. Surfacer work GREAT for small and fine surface blemishes
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zakc
Chairman
Friends don't let Friends run steam
Posts: 229
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Post by zakc on Jul 30, 2012 19:59:04 GMT -5
Gunze Mr. Surfacer 500 for small and fine surface blemishes then prime with Mr. Surfacer 1200 this stuff works great but it is not cheap a rattle can of 1200 will set you back about 12.00.
Try a well stocked figure painting supply like Michigan toy soldier shop
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Post by iomalley on Jul 31, 2012 8:57:39 GMT -5
I second the mr. surfacer line of products. In fact any Gunze product is top notch...I wish model railroading had a paint stewart like Gunze! Tamiya putty is also good for filling gouges. it adhere's to primer better and doesn't shrink like squadron putty does. I do use squadron rarely, as it has some shrinking qualities that can be advantageous, like filling in windows on loco cabs to simulate windows plated over. the shrinkage is equal to the thickness of the cab wall steel in scale...  |
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Post by icghogger on Jul 31, 2012 13:15:15 GMT -5
Right you are, Sean, Gunze is my go-to for all surface finishing.
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Post by jbconn on Aug 2, 2012 14:49:29 GMT -5
Thanks to all for their excellent suggestions. I tried the Bondo Spot and Glazing Putty (it was easier to find, and cheaper too) and although I still need to sand the second thin coat, it seems to be doing the trick.
FYI, 3M has reportedly stopped making the product, so if you want some, better head out to the auto parts store now.
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Post by Arved on Sept 8, 2013 8:11:15 GMT -5
Thanks to all for their excellent suggestions. I tried the Bondo Spot and Glazing Putty (it was easier to find, and cheaper too) and although I still need to sand the second thin coat, it seems to be doing the trick. FYI, 3M has reportedly stopped making the product, so if you want some, better head out to the auto parts store now. Still quite commonly available. The market is too big to be abandoned. Even my local Walmart carries it. Cheaper by the pound, though. If you run out of that... For fine scratches, I agree with using Mr. Surfacer 500. Don't shake up the bottle, but scoop it out with a toothpick. Those flat toothpicks can double as a mini spatula to help spread and squeeze the Mr. Surfacer into the crack. I've also glued 0.005" (Evergreen) styrene down, and then sanded it down.   Note 0.060" extension of Athearn nose. This brings it to the proper length. More info here. You can see the Bondo spot/glazing putty being used there, too. And if you have trouble locating Mr. Surfacer 500:  File this under "desperate people do desperate things."  |
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Post by lajmdlr on Sept 8, 2013 13:33:19 GMT -5
Sean Is that UP Y131 a RCL radio "slug". When living in Downey CA saw them a couple of times on the Patata job. We also called them "baby b boats". |
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Post by santafemikie on Sept 8, 2013 19:08:34 GMT -5
Talk about poor folks ways. One night I didn't have anything else handy. I pulled out my thick CA and filled the scratch using a piece of wire. I hit it with accelerator and was sanding right after I dried things off. The CA is an acrylic similar to the plastic and will fill anything actually. I like being able to sand and file right away.
Cheers, Mikie
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Post by brgp302300 on Sept 16, 2013 17:45:36 GMT -5
Talk about poor folks ways. One night I didn't have anything else handy. I pulled out my thick CA and filled the scratch using a piece of wire. I hit it with accelerator and was sanding right after I dried things off. The CA is an acrylic similar to the plastic and will fill anything actually. I like being able to sand and file right away. Cheers, Mikie That was actually suggested by Jeff Wilson in a diesel detailing book he did a few years back......I too do the same thing. |
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