Post by Packer on Apr 24, 2012 18:19:34 GMT -5
IDK if this is the right place for this kind of thing, but here goes.
I've been experimenting with a cheap fade coat. I got the combined the ideas from a couple of people on the MRR forum. One was using thinned flat white as a base coat before hitting the car with various rust and grime aspects. Another was using big jars of paint that cost less than the model paint.
I went out and bought a can of rustoleum flat white and a big can of paint thinner. I've used rustoleum on car parts, and occasionally on trains, before and had good results. So I figured this might come out alright:
Here's one of my better jobs (I'm still getting used to using an airbrush for weathering. So on some others the passes arent even, there are lines, etc.) when using this fade coat. I usually follow up with a coat of Valspar clear flat immediately after I am happy with the results.
This is a car after a wash of cheap acrylic paint and alcohol. I also did some rust on the roof, sides, and trucks using cheap acrylics and a foam brush. (still practicing with that one)
The pros of this cheaper fade coat is it costs less than 12 bucks, and can probably cover hundreds of HO scale cars. I figure I've done roughly 20 and have barely used 10%. Another plus is that after it fully dries and cures, it's very resilient. I can scratch it and it won't come off.
The cons are that it takes FOREVER to dry and cure thoroughly. Varying on the weather and humidity (painted outside and dries in a garage) it can take days. I've been giving cars 3-5 days before handling them and applying more weathering stuff to them (rust, dirt, etc). It can seem dry but if not fully cured it can come off by a brush just pressing down on it.
I'm hoping for a critique on this idea. IMO it works alright, but I'd like to know what others think and if they have any suggestions to further refine this idea.
I've been experimenting with a cheap fade coat. I got the combined the ideas from a couple of people on the MRR forum. One was using thinned flat white as a base coat before hitting the car with various rust and grime aspects. Another was using big jars of paint that cost less than the model paint.
I went out and bought a can of rustoleum flat white and a big can of paint thinner. I've used rustoleum on car parts, and occasionally on trains, before and had good results. So I figured this might come out alright:
Here's one of my better jobs (I'm still getting used to using an airbrush for weathering. So on some others the passes arent even, there are lines, etc.) when using this fade coat. I usually follow up with a coat of Valspar clear flat immediately after I am happy with the results.
This is a car after a wash of cheap acrylic paint and alcohol. I also did some rust on the roof, sides, and trucks using cheap acrylics and a foam brush. (still practicing with that one)
The pros of this cheaper fade coat is it costs less than 12 bucks, and can probably cover hundreds of HO scale cars. I figure I've done roughly 20 and have barely used 10%. Another plus is that after it fully dries and cures, it's very resilient. I can scratch it and it won't come off.
The cons are that it takes FOREVER to dry and cure thoroughly. Varying on the weather and humidity (painted outside and dries in a garage) it can take days. I've been giving cars 3-5 days before handling them and applying more weathering stuff to them (rust, dirt, etc). It can seem dry but if not fully cured it can come off by a brush just pressing down on it.
I'm hoping for a critique on this idea. IMO it works alright, but I'd like to know what others think and if they have any suggestions to further refine this idea.
