NCCR SW9 56

[NCCR 2580]

I recently added some new photos of this model which is a Proto 2000 SW9. A few small parts added or replaced such as the head light/number boards housing and grab irons. The over all P2K model out of the box is quite nice, But I'm not happy with the windows not being flush on the P2Ks. But, too late now. I'm currently working on another P2K switcher that will feature new grill assemblies and new cab.




Also recently I added the white reflective side sill striping and enhanced the weathering on the side frames.

[sarge]

David, nice work and welome aboard

One trick I learned here for windows is to use AMB windows. I have some for my F45 projects, but I don't know what they have for your swithcher though.

[NCCR 2580]

Thank you very much for the comment. You know, I have not thought of those! I for got all about those guys & windows. I know they make a set to fit Athern's SW7s, But I don't know if they would fit the P2K. I have a old junk Athern shell I use for test weathing. So I can compare the messurements from that. I would have to scrap the windshild wipers most likely and replace them if I go that route. I assume we critisize our own work more! The 56 was kinda a rushed job from the beginning.

[liquidfantasy]

good work! all over outstanding

[icghogger]

Excellent Work, David. How did you make your "awning" on the right-hand side?

[NCCR 2580]

Dec 29, 2008 11:42:09 GMT -5 icghogger said:

Excellent Work, David. How did you make your "awning" on the right-hand side?

Thanks so much for the comments there Denis and Robert.
For the canvas sun shade, I used a piece of masking tape and 0.010" brass wire. On the proto types they retract up wards. Once you have your desired size made out, You can assemble this. Masking tap works good and gives the canvas look. But it's very fragile... It doesn't brake off by looking at it, But you get the point. Just don't bump it hard. At the top edge of the tape, I made a sharp crease towards the bottom then used a piece of scrap styrene (out of sight) and CAed it to the cab side. The under side of the tape is cut so that it is not as wide as what is visible. This way the styrene can make contact with the cab side at the sides. Once it's secured to the cab side, then place your brass wire in your desired position. Pull the tape over it and mark where you will cut the excess tape. I left a bit of slack as canvas droops a bit. Once cut at the bottom by the brass wire, wrap the excess up and under out of sight and a little super glue to the touch won't hurt.