New Jersey Transit Arrow III EMU

[cab4]

I have a single and married pair set of IHP's Arrow III multiple unit cars.

So far, i've got the single car coming together. I plan to install interior lighting, passengers, and other cool details. I might also try fiber optics for the lighting.

For now, here is my progress.







This is one of three NJ transit models i'm working on, Including a

ALP46

dieseldetailer.proboards53.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=ot&thread=734&page=1

and a PL42AC

dieseldetailer.proboards53.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=ot&thread=736&page=1

[cab4]

Well, i've got my Arrow IIIs painted, and i've since put on some of the decals. I also am working on scratch building the correct pantographs.

[antlorch]

Thats pretty cool,I have never really seen anyone build something like that...Your doing great can't wait to see it finished......especially the scratchbuilding.......

[cab4]

Oct 13, 2008 17:52:19 GMT -5 @nbec said:

Wow, how long does it take to build a pantograph?

It really depends. It probably takes an hour if you have all the parts ready. The problem is getting the arms to match perfectly so that it extends and folds correctly.

I mean, all you're doing is essentially bending wire, and drilling holes in tubes, then glueing/soldering it all together. the shoe is held in by bends in the wire. making the correct bends and then making the base are probably the most time consuming parts of the project.

[cab4]

well, i just painted the single car using Alclad chrome on the sides, and Pollyscale stainless steel on the ends. It looks really good, except for the dust that has accumulated on the alclad's mirror finish.

The alclad actually is probably the best paint for ANY silver passenger car. I've started a Metroliner Cab Car, and i've used the Alclad on it as well, and it looks absolutely prototypical. When you take it outside, it shines just like the real thing, and reflects the sky like the real thing.

In fact, that might be it's downfall, since in reality, stainless steel equipment reflects it's surroundings, and in most layouts, the surroundings are basement, lol. You'll neet good light and a good back drop (at least sky blue walls), otherwise it will just look really silver.

I really need to find a way to take a picture with it reflecting something. anyways, here it is with my horrible lighting-





This in progress shot and metroliner cab might give you a better idea of the shinyness. This is prototypical though, believe it or not.

[icghogger]

Cab4, Great Work! Love them juice jacks!!

[cab4]

Here is an updated picture of the Arrow III. its moving along, i have it running under DCC, but i need to add the lighting and internal details before i add the pilots and seal the thing in.

[cab4]

Before Anyone Groans that i resurrected an old thread, Its pretty much the same models involved, although now i've set my sights even older, as NJ DOT units.

The unit pictured above has already been stripped, and its waiting for another day of painting. The old paint job wasn't horrendous, but it did have dust in it that made it look bad (again... see above). I've since painted other MU cars without dust and so I went ahead and stripped this model.

I also have about 14 more cars to do, Arrow III Married pairs. These things are INTENSE to build. There can be no mistakes, since you can't get them anymore. These are nearly my entire 1970s era commuter fleet, and i'm lucky to have the units i do (I got them more or less for free in a trade. MSRP for a pair is $180).

I'm a little apprehensive, but we'll see how it goes.

Work includes constructing Stemman Pantographs from scratch, Special Lighting, Grab irons and doorway chains. I'm still trying to find some 1970s roof pictures. i'm sure they're very similar to today's roofs, but the Arrow IIIs were rebuilt in the 1990s so not all the details are the same.

Some pictures-

The black unit is the single from above. This is the undercoat for the metallic paint. The silver ones on the left were my other "original" bunch of Arrow IIIs. the rest are new.





A very nice Line-up, though exaggerated since half of them are to be connected back to back.




Working Stemman Pantograph



The trickiest part is the stabilizer bar, pictured here. this keeps the pantograph from folding cock-eyed. It needs to be just right or the pantograph won't extend right and will not run against wire properly.