kcs1967
Chairman
SWLA-SETX PINE SCENTED
Posts: 1,726
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Post by kcs1967 on May 27, 2011 9:02:25 GMT -5
now do not let it be said that I could have you avoid painting the cab, I am the guy after all, that takes an "Add a horn and blower housing project" and makes it a move this, resize this detail part, haha.
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Post by torikoos on May 27, 2011 13:14:38 GMT -5
If it helps at all, the Athearn CF7 is basically an updated Railpower shell. You could have a look on the interweb if someone has an old Railpower CF7 shell with round cab for you, evil bay or something may be worth a go. I'm also working on a CF7 myself, which is an old Railpower shell and chassis, I had it gathering dust for a long time, but finally (and slowly ) making some progress. :-)
Koos
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Post by liquidfantasy on May 30, 2011 7:05:30 GMT -5
Thanks guys! I have the next challenge with the 1506 from Cannon: The two extra windows with the round corners do not have the window glazing included. Has anyone yet used the 1506 and what did you use as window glazing for the extra windows with the round corners? Thanks and have a great memorial day
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Post by cf7 on May 30, 2011 9:07:15 GMT -5
Using the Cannon 1506 is a good idea, but with the length and height of the cab being so different, I think it would be easier to replace the whole cab side with styrene sheet, then cut and file the window openings. If the 1506 is used, you will have a lot of seams to fill.
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Post by liquidfantasy on May 31, 2011 8:29:14 GMT -5
I still think it's easier to use the 1506 instead of plain styrene? The Cannon part has the window openings already in place which is better then filing them, it'll never look as good. Plus, I will only exchange the window section as I can't repaint the entire side (For the York rail CF7 it'll be the black painted part to be replaced only)
But where do I get the window glazing from, for 1506?
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Post by liquidfantasy on May 31, 2011 10:18:18 GMT -5
thanks, that should be all I need to know then to place my order :-)
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Post by liquidfantasy on Jun 14, 2011 1:12:19 GMT -5
Thanks, I got the Cannon parts meanwhile and I think I can kit bash something out of it, doesn't look too complicated ...
My headache now comes from the under frame ... I had them given to a buddy for some milling work on it at the tank section. Still, I can't make anything out of it with the high-tech detail parts looking like the real thing ... The Tank is too wide, need to narrow it, an the entire casting from the under frame at the tank section is way to big. I took the decision today to mill the entire tank section away and re-build everything from scratch. The weight I will loose I have to compensate somehow and not to mention what to do with the motor, I somehow need to make it sit in the place...
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Post by liquidfantasy on Nov 17, 2011 9:29:31 GMT -5
Gents, I'm still gathering detail parts for the two units. I don't know why I haven't recognized it earlier, but #1500 has spark arrestors and 1504 doesn't. If you look at this video minute 1:15, you'll see them.
Has anybody an idea which aftermarket part comes closest to the ones on #1500?
Thanks
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c415rock
Moderator
"Linking the East with the West"
Posts: 1,044
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Post by c415rock on Nov 17, 2011 10:45:31 GMT -5
Looking at photo's on line and your video link, I don't think there is a part made like that. They look to be a home built arrestor. It appears that they a bit taller exhaust stack than standard with a home made screen fabricated to fit inside.
That's what it looks like to me
Erik
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Post by liquidfantasy on Sept 26, 2012 11:27:07 GMT -5
Guys, I did it! expect for the coupler lift bars I have the units completed. I'm writing a build report and will share with you soon.
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Post by liquidfantasy on Sept 27, 2012 10:05:02 GMT -5
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c415rock
Moderator
"Linking the East with the West"
Posts: 1,044
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Post by c415rock on Sept 27, 2012 11:29:19 GMT -5
Hi liquidfantasy,
The unit is looking good, nice job.
Erik
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EMDX6043
Chairman
Future ex-modeler
Posts: 837
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Post by EMDX6043 on Sept 27, 2012 12:22:41 GMT -5
Great clean job piecing that cab together!
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sgoti
Chairman
Posts: 459
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Post by sgoti on Sept 27, 2012 13:51:10 GMT -5
Impressive work!
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Post by liquidfantasy on Sept 28, 2012 4:22:02 GMT -5
Thanks for the feedback, let's continue! Chapter 2: Modifying the bodyAthearn used the old railpower shell which has the long and short hood attached to the sidewalks. Not the perfect world, but not a showstopper either (after the cab issue was solved). I started rebuilding the steps. The molded on steps are a pain in the eye and it took me quite some time to find a solution. A Line has photo etched Dash 8-44CW steps which can be used after trimming into size. They don't fit in perfectly, but you won't recognize it later. Let's get moving: The results look pretty good. Take note of the walkways, crew members would slip to death! I addressed this hazard with Archer Fine Transfers. The H0 scale tread plate was cut into size and applied like a microscale decal After a black coat it looks really neat. Another modification seen in this picture is the fuel fill which was scratch built. Let’s work on the 2nd shell. The exhaust stacks needed to go, so did the complete print on the side. I compared it with the prototype and figured out that it was extreme off, like wrong fonts, wrong graphic and pointing into the wrong direction! The print was removed using typical techniques like a rubber and Q-tips with alcohol. The exhaust stack were filed off The new exhaust stacks were scratch built with evergreen material. In order to match the worn out print on the long hood, I used microscale fonts watching the prototype lettering and added only the fonts which would be still visible later. The others I added with a bit of red and a brush (weathering later will make that disappear almost completely). Plus some additional small details were added using styrene parts. Next step was the fade. I usually fade using my airbrush with thinned white. I couldn’t do so here, because the black was not faded at an equal level than the yellow. I saw that many here use oils to fade, so I went for this solution: White oil color water based, thinned with water and carefully working only the yellow section. After painting the exhaust stacks black, the entire shell got a glossy cover for decals and the wash. The reflective stripes are from highball decals. Wash is simple as I always do it: Gouache thinned with water and a bit of dish washing soap. Once dry I remove the excess with Q-tips and water. I add a bit of alcohol to the water to ease up the game. Then comes what most here know how to do: Weathering! I didn’t do anything special, just a bit of oils for streaks and powders for dirt and rust. The magic is the dry brush which adds a lot to the general appearance. On the right lower corner you can see that I also added air hoses at some point. I used the high-tech details rubber air hoses.
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Post by icghogger on Sept 28, 2012 8:37:08 GMT -5
Very Nice, those steps look Great and your weathering is spot-on!!
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Post by liquidfantasy on Oct 1, 2012 2:25:55 GMT -5
Chapter 3: Frame, tanks and trucksAnother big challenge was the frame, to be more precise the fuel tank & battery boxes. Whatever Athearn put underneath the frame was only to add weight, but not really close to what is under a real CF7. It took me some researching on options till I decided to order parts from High-Tech details. I asked a buddy to mill off the complete tank and battery boxes Athearn put in place and replaced it with the parts I ordered. Unfortunately the tank was too wide to fit under the CF7 and I had to mill off the part in the middle. After the surgery, parts were glued together and with sandpaper smoothened. It looks much better now. I used epoxy based two component glue to attach it to the frame. Support beams are evergreen. Fitting perfectly. It didn’t take me long to figure out that I would get into trouble with the space under the hood, if I don’t find a solution to lower the motor as low as possible. So I milled some space with the Dremel. After the black primer was sprayed on, the frame is ready. I modified the power pickup and soldered wires to the trucks. I simply don’t like the way the wires are hold in place with the “snap on” technique. If I do such work, it is obvious to also re-power the loco. A simple genesis motor (actually a Roco motor) was glued in place, using the two component epoxy glue. I put a layer of double sided tape under the motor before gluing in place. In case of repair and can remove the motor. As final step I started some basic weathering on the truck side frames. I attach them with double sided tape to a piece of wood, use black primer from the spray can, and go with a first layer of powders. The powders are very bright right now, but it will darken after a layer of matte varnish and other grime layers.
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Post by Randy Earle on Oct 1, 2012 13:22:56 GMT -5
This build is going great Denis. Very nice!
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Post by liquidfantasy on Oct 1, 2012 14:42:44 GMT -5
Thanks, I got the ladies up to 95%, so my motivation was that good, that I found a work around to solve the coupler lift bars issue and are just in the progress to completing them to 100%. Will keep you guys posted.
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Post by diesel on Oct 4, 2012 23:14:52 GMT -5
this really is coming along nice! i like the exhaust mods you made on the one unit, are those scratchmade funnels from styrene tube? -if you wrote that up i didn't see as i was looking only at pics. ; )
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