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Post by milw on Aug 25, 2010 8:46:29 GMT -5
I´m working on another project for a friend, a GMD-1. The model is from New Jersey Custom Brass and was made by KMT. It was planned to paint it and add a decoder, but when i test-ran the model it ran horrible. My first idea was to replace the old motor, so i modified it to accept an Athearn RTR motor. However, it didn´t ran better after that. The all-metal trucks have so much play that the truck attachment screws become loose due to vibrations after a few meters on the track. So the decision was made to repower the model completely. Since the trucks are the same than on the SW1500, i was able to get an old SW1500 frame and drive. I cut out the truck mounting area from the SW, modified the brass frame of the GMD and glued the truck mounts into the frame with two-componet adhesive. I had a lot of Athearn drive components and combined them to splines and couplings. A first test run was very good, although the model has no flywheels. I´m sure it will run even better when a decoder is installed. The model after the paint was stripped:  The old metal tower drive trucks:  The frame with the new mounts and trucks installed:  Close up view of one truck with the new mount:  The complete drive with wire for test run attached:  Next step will be painting of the shell and installation of flashing ditch lights, i will update this thread as soon as work proceeds. |
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Post by icghogger on Aug 25, 2010 10:28:05 GMT -5
Excellent fix for those old KMT drives, Michael! I have one that will need a similar modification eventually  |
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Post by samoa switcher on Aug 26, 2010 0:54:09 GMT -5
Interesting fix for an old KMT drive. Thanks for posting photos. Can't wait for this one to be finished.
Cyrus
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Post by milw on Aug 26, 2010 8:54:06 GMT -5
Currently i´m looking for the correct parts. Can anyone tell me which handrail stanchions would be correct? And what about the tank? The original looks like a shortened GE tank?
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Post by icghogger on Aug 27, 2010 8:42:40 GMT -5
Michael, Jim is correct. It is best to get a smooth running mechanism before you change over to DCC. And if you decide to step up to a can motor, find one with a low profile so you can get the drive shafts as nearly perpendicular to the frame as possible. There is less resistance (and a smoother drive system) when the motor shafts and gear boxes are in a straight line. Also, look at adding flywheels to each motor shaft. They offer the advantage of mechanical inertia to overcome electrical contact problems, plus they add weight for good wheel to rail contact.
As for my old KMT-equipped Alco Models SW1, I want to use a can motor with flywheels, but will have to modify the frame to lower the motor to align with the gear box shafts. That's why I was intrigued by your use of the Athearn trucks/gear boxes, as it looks like a good way to solve my drive problems, too!
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Post by m636 on Aug 29, 2010 23:23:51 GMT -5
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Post by icghogger on Aug 30, 2010 9:24:34 GMT -5
WOW, thanks, M636, those are excellent detail shots (and the dimensional sketch is great info, too) !! We could start our own photo reference page with more like this!
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kcs1967
Chairman
SWLA-SETX PINE SCENTED
Posts: 1,726
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Post by kcs1967 on Oct 3, 2010 8:35:21 GMT -5
Wow, that is awesome reference, superb truck upgrade. i
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DRLOCO
Chairman
We can Railroad, Yes we can!
Posts: 237
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Post by DRLOCO on Oct 22, 2010 10:22:47 GMT -5
A quick note--the ditch lights don't flash on Canadian (and western US) locomotives.
ANd thanks for the detail shots--I am still on the lookout for one of those pointe one models from a few years ago
(or a kaslo shell)
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Post by cnrglen on Nov 6, 2010 14:31:54 GMT -5
Thanks for the pictures and the detail that they provide. I plan to kitbash a passable GMD-1 one day using SW1000 shells, unless I just happen to find a smokin deal on a brass one!
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Post by milw on Feb 20, 2011 15:07:31 GMT -5
After a long time i could work again on this model. Got stanchions from Smokey Valley which were installed, together with a Digitrax DH163, which sits under the fuel tank:  |
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Post by milw on Mar 13, 2011 10:19:37 GMT -5
Today i assembled the model and am done now....  |
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Post by ranchwagon on Mar 13, 2011 15:51:31 GMT -5
Michael, another great job! Excellent!
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Post by railfan on Mar 14, 2011 10:43:48 GMT -5
Looking good! Just one question: Does SRY really have these engines?
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Post by milw on Mar 14, 2011 13:56:56 GMT -5
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Post by railfan on Mar 15, 2011 11:23:23 GMT -5
Huh. I had no idea. Thanks.
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Post by m a y o r 79 on Mar 18, 2011 12:24:30 GMT -5
Turned out nice. GMD-1's seem to be popular in this group  |
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dtinut
Chairman
Modeling the DT&I of the 60's & 70's
Posts: 661
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Post by dtinut on Mar 23, 2011 21:00:39 GMT -5
How come you did not remove the body railings?
Otherwise - looks great.
I rebuilt a similar model made by KMT for Prcision Scale Models, it did not have body railings, by had regular handrails like you added to your model. I cut/shortened/spliced an Atlas RS32 mechanism for the model.
(it was what the customer provided to me)
It does run superb!.
I removed the footboards, and built a more typical fuel tank for it, but it rides on AAR-B trucks, which apparently the customer was fine with. It looks pretty good. Maybe I'll snag a shot or two, and post it, but I am shipping it back to customer this week.
Regards,
Brian
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Post by milw on Mar 26, 2011 10:42:01 GMT -5
How come you did not remove the body railings? That seemed to eb too much work for me...  |
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dtinut
Chairman
Modeling the DT&I of the 60's & 70's
Posts: 661
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Post by dtinut on Mar 26, 2011 14:14:21 GMT -5
I can understand that... Here are a couple pics of the NJ Custom Brass model I built an Atlas drive for. They aren't the best shots, because it's gloss black paint.... but it does run very well, like an Atlas!    Regards, Brian |
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