|
Post by brickbuilder711 on Jan 26, 2010 22:02:49 GMT -5
My first attempt at repainting Athearn's prototypically obsolete YN2 6126 into YN3 went ok, I guess. I know it would look better with different treatment and a pricy airbrush, but here's "Draft 1": When I get to use airbrush methods and flat brushes in the not too distant future, the final product will look incredible... I can feel it, but when the judgement attests to before and after, here's before!
|
|
|
Post by riss2509 on Jan 26, 2010 23:51:55 GMT -5
there is always a beginning right? Keep on truckin buddy, your doin good so far!
|
|
|
Post by brickbuilder711 on Jan 28, 2010 21:36:52 GMT -5
Thank you! I will definitely continue working on this unit when I have the chance.
|
|
|
Post by riss2509 on Jan 28, 2010 22:37:55 GMT -5
Just an idea, try using the rattle cans ( spray cans ) first. Practice doing single color schemes. Plus practice using an airbrush on items that ya wont have to worry about, or put investment into. Im planning to use more time with an airbrush this spring. I have a cheap testors airbrush im going to use to start weathering. Ive gotten pretty good and doing paint with spray cans, but, do need to graduate up in the future!
|
|
|
Post by MONONC420 on Jan 28, 2010 22:45:05 GMT -5
An airbrush is one of the best investments you can make. I got a Pasche H Set airbrush for Christmas, believe the cost was around $50 or so. Then you just have to buy a compressor for it. It will give you nice, smooth paint coverage. Painting with an airbrush, especially on an engine like that, is pretty easy. But, I guess I'm used to painting Norfolk Southern units! lol
Christian
|
|
|
Post by diesel on Jan 29, 2010 1:46:13 GMT -5
Agreed, there's always a starting place. When I started out, I used a $15 airbrush and the canned air. Ya, that's not the same as using an air-compressor. But, it's a fast way to get started and at least get over the $ hurdle for the moment.
The real gem here is that you WANT to do this kind of work, and also that you found a great place to talk about and share your work.
|
|
|
Post by CP_8530 on Jan 29, 2010 15:26:13 GMT -5
Practice practice practice.
The thing about becoming good with an airbrush is that you won't be limited to buying whatever models are painted in the road you like anymore; You can pick up whatever model and paint it in the scheme of your choice.
|
|
|
Post by Matthew on Jan 29, 2010 17:25:54 GMT -5
Even if you wish to brush paint, there is no reason that masking tape cannot be used. With some practice and a little knowledge an adequate finish IS achievable using a brush. An airbrush is nice, but not the only way to apply paint. Matthew
|
|
|
Post by brickbuilder711 on Jan 29, 2010 22:07:12 GMT -5
Thanks guys... An airbrush is on my wishlist because of the prevailing need to weather, but there are works that are great that do not use airbrush methods, like from my buddy KCSRailfan on the forums... He said he pulled his units off with brush, I personally learned flat brushes will do it, I am taking a painting class at school now and got to know the various brushes and their characteristics.... I tried taping the sil by the way where the dark blue section is in the long hood but as you can see it did not quite work...
|
|
|
Post by Matthew on Jan 29, 2010 23:04:03 GMT -5
It has probably been said before but I find coating the masking tape with the same colour again or a clear before the change of colour minimises bleed, particularly when brush painting. Matthew
|
|
|
Post by brickbuilder711 on Feb 11, 2010 22:55:57 GMT -5
Well I got some news... I will be getting some spray paint under the Color Place brand... Heard it is a good match of YN3 as is the Floquil, but the Spray is a hands down preference since it is easier to apply.
|
|
cbq2bn
Chairman
The Zephyr - The only way to Travel
Posts: 727
|
Post by cbq2bn on Feb 12, 2010 10:24:51 GMT -5
I know some guys use dull coat before masking off and painting a second color on their stuff, this helps so the taoe doesn;t pullthe underpaint off, same with applying multioal decals,
One of these days I'll be tring my hand at a custon paint job on a gray painted Dash 9 I got off ebay or someplace cheap..... Not sure what way I'll go yet, but will be a fallen flag either in old colors on a Dash or todays colors with fallen flag name.....
|
|
|
Post by brickbuilder711 on Feb 15, 2010 21:24:10 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by brickbuilder711 on Feb 15, 2010 22:45:25 GMT -5
...and
|
|
|
Post by Matthew on Feb 16, 2010 5:33:47 GMT -5
Hello If it were me, I would prime with a light colour, warm the spray can in water, shake for at least two minutes, and spray light mist coats from further away. Matthew
|
|
|
Post by conrailjon on Feb 16, 2010 15:13:32 GMT -5
I agree with Matthew, if you stand farther away and spray lighter coats I think you'll like the results.
|
|
|
Post by brickbuilder711 on Feb 16, 2010 15:45:17 GMT -5
Thanks for the tips guys, it has since dried and looked great, but I shot a second coat from afar this afternoon. I'm really satisfied nonetheless.
|
|
|
Post by brickbuilder711 on Feb 17, 2010 21:37:49 GMT -5
Stood back, sprayed one more, fairly lighter coat...
|
|
|
Post by Matthew on Feb 18, 2010 0:46:38 GMT -5
Looks much more bester now! Matthew
|
|
CIOR
Chairman
Posts: 2,046
|
Post by CIOR on Feb 18, 2010 20:19:06 GMT -5
I remember the first "brush paint" I did as a young teen! Its all a learning process and none of us started out being a master! As my grandfather told me many years ago "never be afraid to learn and always keep an open mind".
As to spraying with a can, keep it warm! As Jay said, it needs to stay warm (as Minicooper knows well!) and also spray several light layers! If you spray light layers you can spray quicker and get it done also. Plus you don't get buildup in the shell or the drip layer.
Most of all, never be afraid to make a mistake and most of all, never fail to LEARN from your mistake!
|
|