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Post by fyrfotog2 on Aug 10, 2016 23:12:46 GMT -5
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osrr
Trainmaster
Posts: 130
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Post by osrr on Aug 11, 2016 14:32:59 GMT -5
Scaletrains is doin an Admiral cab unit. I believe the only aftermarket Admiral cans you can get are 3d printed.
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EMDX6043
Chairman
Future ex-modeler
Posts: 838
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Post by EMDX6043 on Aug 11, 2016 18:33:45 GMT -5
Why won't the cab interior fit? If my memory serves me correctly you need to get rid of that big metal tab that sticks up into the cab. There shouldn't be a problem after that, but you might also have to trim down the "floor" of the kit to fit too.
I've used plenty of those interiors on old BlueBox locomotives...it may just take a little fiddling around.
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Post by fyrfotog2 on Aug 12, 2016 0:38:40 GMT -5
I'll explain a little more in the next post, but I am only looking to go as far as the prototype image. No need for a cab, but the Cannon interior floor on top of the Athearn battery box just doesn't look right. More pictures to come.
Dave
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EMDX6043
Chairman
Future ex-modeler
Posts: 838
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Post by EMDX6043 on Aug 12, 2016 11:40:06 GMT -5
I'll explain a little more in the next post, but I am only looking to go as far as the prototype image. No need for a cab, but the Cannon interior floor on top of the Athearn battery box just doesn't look right. More pictures to come. Dave Hmm...I see you're on Flickr too! I can't mentally picture what the problem may be though. The floor isn't ( shouldn't) be visible once the cab is resting on the sub-base. In fact, I've noticed that quite a few of those BB cabs have some warp to them...as in the rear of the cab isn't the same width as the front. I would normally fix that with some styrene as the back wall of the cab. I even built a jig to make sure the walls were parallel. That got rid of the overhang above the sub-base.
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Post by fyrfotog2 on Aug 14, 2016 16:17:45 GMT -5
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EMDX6043
Chairman
Future ex-modeler
Posts: 838
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Post by EMDX6043 on Aug 15, 2016 8:21:07 GMT -5
Ok I think I've got it now...guess I was being a little dense!
Since you're doing an in-progress type of model, I suggest getting rid of the kit's cab floor and using either thin styrene or brass. Brass would probably hold up a lot better and you can use a thinner sheet compared to styrene. Then you can just eyeball the placement of the control stand. The only problem then would be the seat pedestals, since those are always a bit fragile, even when using the cab floor that Cannon provides. Maybe drill them out and use brass wire so they can turn too!
The open battery boxes would be a nice touch as well, then you can model some of the air brake equipment under the cab floor.
And I agree...when I don't post pictures for a while I always forget how to do it. I don't remember the <img> code or whatever it is.
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