CP Rail GP38-2 3028 Beaver Scheme

[gmdmodeller1999]

Hello everyone! 
This will be my first post on this forum regarding the detailing work I do,
so if there's any rules regarding posting on this forum that I may have missed, please let me know. 

Alright, now to get to what I'm currently working on.
I've been recently detailing an Athearn RTR GP38-2 that started life as an ex-SOO Line locomotive in the CP Dual Flags Scheme which I'm detailing to replicate the GMD-built CP GP38-2 #3084 which I caught in a video at a crossing in Calgary near the Chinook C-train station. The original model had the small anti-climber installed on the front, so I had to remove it with a small file and install a large anti-climber like the one on 3028 that I made using 2 pieces of styrene plastic placed on top of each other. Miniatures by Eric ditch light casings and a CP style pilot were also installed on the front pilot, as well as the lift rings installed on the rear. The original cab on the Athearn unit was removed and replaced with a Proto 2000 cab salvaged from a broken SD45 that my little brother got his hands on, since the front and rear windshields have the wipers moulded into the glass.  I also filed off part of the nose to make way for the Miniatures by Eric Pyle nose headlight to fit on, and I glued the headlight on using Insta-cure super glue. The number-board mounted headlight on the original model was filed off, and a Canadian-style Miniatures by Eric bell and bracket was installed in it's place. The dynamic brake blisters were also made by Miniatures by Eric which I also installed on. The cab roof was fitted with a Miniatures by Eric Sinclair Antenna and the long hood has the correct vertical Pyle headlight installed. The Canadian-style cab drip strips were made using brass wire and bent to replicate those on the prototype. I've also recently got the parts necessary to start installing the stanctions for the front and rear handrails, and so I drilled the holes necessary for them to go in, and promptly installed them.  Despite all these modifications present, I still have a lot of work to do. I still need to install the Canadian style vertical GMD steps present on almost every GMD locomotive that's been made for Canadian railroads, as well as the correct horn mounted on the long hood. The exhaust vents will be filed off and replaced with the correct CP circular vents, and a winterization hatch will need to be installed on the first radiator fan. The correct handbrake on the nose will need to be installed, as well as the large MU Stands on both the front and rear anti-climbers. Does anyone have any tips for drilling into brass?

Now for the paint scheme. I originally intended for the locomotive to be painted and detailed to replicate the script-painted GP38-2, but I changed to the current reference model due to lack of experience cutting out the blower housing in order to install the correct small blower housing used on the script locomotive. As a result, the locomotive was hand-painted using True Line Trains CP grey. I now have an airbrush, so I can paint the locomotive in the CP Red used in the Beaver Scheme, but I'm frankly not sure what company makes and where to get it from Lol. The grey will hence serve as a primer. 

[acollins]

Great start! Hardly see any 3000s anymore with all the 2200s running around now.

Alex

[tamaman]

Great start!

[gmdmodeller1999]

Thanks!The rest of their parts necessary for completing the exterior of the model are on their way, so I may be able to post an update as soon as they arrive!

[CanadianRails43]

This is looking good! I've got a Bachmann GP38-2 on the operation table, being done up as CP 3084! Very interested in seeing your method of tackling this unique locomotive!

[deez]

Like allot of GMD -2 diesels, they are built with no support ribs on the blower hump. Interesting also is that the dynamics are extended, just a little, past the grill witch is unlike all EMD GP38-2's where if not equipped with extended range dynamics they taper abruptly right after the grills. This looks to be a nice build of the unique prototype.

[gmdmodeller1999]

Thanks for all the complements everyone! 
I just received the parts today in the mail that are necessary to finish the detailing work, so I'll start installing them and post another update soon. 

[CanadianRails43]

Good seeing all the parts needed for the project!
Are you going to remove the little bulge from the original cab-mounted headlight? A small file would take care of that
Also, are you planning to detail this as best you can? There are still some details you can add that will really add to the look of the model, like the rectangular sandfiller hatches and the bolted plates seen on cab roof. The plates I believe are on every CP GP38-2 model and in the same locations. Easy to do with some thin strip styrene like I did on my CP 3084 project. I'll give you the link to my project thread. dieseldetailer.proboards.com/thread/16548/bachmann-gp38-detailing-repaint-project

I also found a rooftop shot of 3028 that may be helpful too! Note that 3028 has a 'slug' paired with it. www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=4108939
This 'mother/daughter' duo are always together while in service, almost never disconnected unless maintenance is needed or one (usually the slug) is to be retired. This slug 1128, is a former CP GP35 (ex CP 5021) with much of components removed from the hood. I believe it has electric traction motors.

Hope you find this helpful! Looking forward to more progress!

[gmdmodeller1999]

Hey thanks for the advice! I've actually looked at that photo you've sent me previously, and have used it for modelling this unit. The bulge has already been removed from the cab before the bell was installed. In addition, I've actually seen photos of 3028 being used without the slug on trains heading into Calgary's Odgen Yard.

[gmdmodeller1999]

Alright, the locomotive now has all the main details installed. The GMD Steps have been installed and spaces filled in and sanded with putty and files.


You can see the Winterization hatch, horn, and correct Canadian-style exhaust ports from this photo, as well as the plates installed on top of the locomotive's cab. On both ends of the hood, I created the square sand hatches using a plate of styrene that was cut into small rectangular shapes and installed over the original circular hatches.
From the front and rear view, you can see the MU stands installed on the front and rear anti-climbers, as well as the holes drilled to install the stanctions into. 
From this photo, you can see the Hand-brake installed on the side as well as the plates installed on top of the cab similar to the prototype: 
The next step will be to paint the locomotive in the red and black CP Scheme and add the hand-rails which will also be painted.

[gmdmodeller1999]

I just finished spraying the first layer on the locomotive using the recently released Rapido Proto-paint CP Rail Action Red Acrylic airbrush ready paint, and the model's come out with a grainy rough finish, so I'm not sure whether I should just add another layer of paint or strip the locomotive with alcohol and start again.

[Frédéric Bégin]

Possible reasons

Pressure too high
Distance from airbrush to surface too great
Or the paint is not thinned enough

Your model came out so great that I would strip it. And make some test on a scrap sheet of styrene before going for the real deal.

Fred

[ironstef70]

Fred is right, don't mess with that paint and start over again. Better make a trial on another piece, especially if you never used that paint before. I always go with what I know, and if a paint mix of mine is too old and tick, i trash it and start over with fresh base paints, redo my mix and thin.

If the painted surface was good and just a coloration error, then yes, you could add another layer, but a grainy surface will do no good; just like rough styrene. You would have to add additional layers so to hide that grain, and would eventually lose details. Don't forget that you need to clear coat after decals.

But don't give up such a nice project. Couple years ago in my early modeling times, I used to repaint four times a same die cast excavator, until I be satisfied with it. I would never sell it just so I remember how hard I tried, and then got successful. Sometimes it's tough learning...

Stephane

[gmdmodeller1999]

Update! 
The locomotive is now 80% stripped of the paint, one more round of the alcohol bath should prepare it for re-detailing and hopefully a better paint job. I'll keep updating as more progress is made.

[CanadianRails43]

Take your time and everything will flow to perfection. Took me a couple tries on my GP38 to get the paint right. Of course, I used spray paint (rattle cans) which is trickier. Excited to see what you have next post!