HO scale GP35 static short line

[johnvan]

Hello, I am new to trains but not to modeling. I have been building scale plastic
models since about 1964 at age 11. I have always had a passion for trains and
want to tackle one of my favorite short line engines, a GP35 in HO scale. It's
not too far off from my preferred scale of 1/72. My younger brother is an avid HO
rail roader but he lives 1200 miles from me and is busy with his career. So I am
guessing I need an undecorated shell, chassis, trucks, couplers and photo etch
rails. I have experience with filling, puttying, sanding, priming, masking and all the
skills needed to tackle a model. I also know there are after market decals for my
chosen short line. Where do I get my materials, Walthers or is there else where that
is more economical. I will be saving a lot seeing as though it won't be motorized.
Thanks for any and all help.---John

[emd16645]

Jan 20, 2016 21:01:24 GMT -5 johnvan said:

Hello, I am new to trains but not to modeling. I have been building scale plastic
models since about 1964 at age 11. I have always had a passion for trains and
want to tackle one of my favorite short line engines, a GP35 in HO scale. It's
not too far off from my preferred scale of 1/72. My younger brother is an avid HO
rail roader but he lives 1200 miles from me and is busy with his career. So I am
guessing I need an undecorated shell, chassis, trucks, couplers and photo etch
rails. I have experience with filling, puttying, sanding, priming, masking and all the
skills needed to tackle a model. I also know there are after market decals for my
chosen short line. Where do I get my materials, Walthers or is there else where that
is more economical. I will be saving a lot seeing as though it won't be motorized.
Thanks for any and all help.---John

Hi John,

First question, what short line are you looking at? Knowing that would help us provide guidance to what you need.

Second, you will be better off locating a full model to start with, rather than trying to buy the individual major components (shell, trucks, chassis, etc). I would suggest locating a Kato GP35 on eBay, as you can find them for around $50, sometimes less. Stay away from older athearn models, as the hoods are too wide.

Don't get to caught up with the idea of saving money because you don't need a motor. Every model these days has a motor, and finding one without is unlikely. Since you say you don't need the motor, you could always remove it and sell it. Kato motors are valuable, if you were to buy a $50 model as I suggested above, you could likely sell the motor for $20. Perhaps someone here would be willing to work as an intermediary if you aren't familiar with eBay.

As far as places to buy parts from, I always view Walthers as a place of last resort. They usually have the most parts available, but always at full retail. Most other hobby shops online have prices lower than Walthers. Often the absolute cheapest places for parts are a few particular eBay sellers.

[johnvan]

Thanks Chris. The short line I am modelling is Housatonic Rail Road, HRRC. It runs from
my home state of Massachusetts roughly from Pittsfield Ma to Danbury Ct  that's
north to south, and east to west from Springfield Ma to Selkirk NY. Thanks for the
info on which brands are more accurate than others. Also in HO which is better, plastic
or photo etch railings? I have had an evilbay account for many years, that's how I get
most of my deals on Hasegawa, Revell, Tamiya and other model kits.I am also looking at
a New York Central RS-3 from the early to mid 60s. My grandfather was retired from
NYC and use to work in the yard, N Adams Junction-Pittsfield yard before he retired.
I am not sure of his actual job at retirement but remember my mother mentioning
"car knocker" and "brake man". That won't be until I get a good jump on the HRRC
GP35 though. Thanks again---John

[emd16645]

You're welcome John, I had suspected that the HRRC was what you're going after.

For your handrails, plastic are simplest and you get decent results, the athearn ones are best. The best results involve using wire in place of plastic. .012-.015 is best. You can use either plastic stanchions (cut from athearn or Kato rails) or cast brass, smokey valley or precision scale are a few examples. Photoetch parts tend to be too thin for stanchions.