PBRR SD38M, the HARD way!

[pacbelt]

Working on almost NO budget, I'm planning something that's a bit of a stretch for me....

My freelance railroad, the Pacific Belt RR, is getting a "rebuild".
A SD38P - which is actually a SD35, with the center 36" cooling fan removed, and its 16-567 turbo replaced with a 16-645 non-turbo. Also some -2 electronics for good measure, and a few more subtle changes.

Thing is: THIS is the SD35 I'm starting with!!





YUP, the Atlas/Roco SD35!!
Not just any though... the one I've had since 1977!!
It was the second new locomotive I ever bought, with my teenage lawn mowing pay. Poor choice maybe, but a ton of sentimental value.

This won't be a show stopper, by any stretch, but it will be a conversation piece!
I plan on doing the "usual" detail package, but I *may* attempt a Cannon short hood, cab, and cab base... maybe!

I've got my work cut out for me... :cool:

[pacbelt]

This is the body I'm attempting to recreate...







Yeah, its four different numbers, but that gives me options!
I love the mismatched fans TOO. Adds character...

[pacbelt]

STEP ONE: without a mill, without any friends nearby with any milling equipment, I get started on the frame, with a Dremel, a bastard file, sandpaper, beer, and expletives!!
(Yes, the motor, which runs surprisingly well, WAS removed, when I was grinding the frame)

It won't be quick, but this old girl is getting a facelift.
But first, a tummy tuck - on the notoriously horrible fuel tank!!

(Trust me, after shaping, sanding, and Bondo, it'll look sorta acceptable)

[jmlaboda]

And here I thought you were going after one of these beauties...

[dtinut]

Do you have a grinder, maybe even a hand grinder - like a 4" hand grinder?
I suggest, obtaining a SD35 fuel tank (hint - I have a spare) and grinding the frame down enough to allow this tank to slip over the existing tank, The old Atlas/Roco diecast frame/tank was a horrible rendition...

This will improve the model by 75% alone...
When you perform the labotomy work on the shell, and paint/decal it, then it will look great.
If you plan to re-use the existing motor - I'd remove it cause you introducing a lot of fine metal particles which could get into the motor and cause havok, even though it's non-ferrous/pot metal.

Here is an Atlas GP38 I converted using an Atlas Master fuel tank:





Regards,
Brian

[dtinut]

Here is another one I did, but instead of Atlas tank, I used Kato pieces from SD45 and JBweld to mount to the Atlas frame after I ground the frame down enough to fit the Kato tank (shortened). I used a hand grinder to do the work on this one...



Regards,
Brian

[pacbelt]

Brian, I should check pawn shops for a half decent grinder... By the way, those Geeps look REALLY good!!!
That's something I hadn't thought of!

Is the tank Swiss Cheese like that, or did you drill it??

I could DEFINITELY use that tank... I'll count my pennies, and see if it's possible...

[dtinut]

Swiss cheese - lots of pot metal is like this.
Not sure why... Probably caused by impurities in metal offing gases while still hot.

Brian

[EMDX6043]

Sept 22, 2015 21:02:54 GMT -5 dtinut said:

Do you have a grinder, maybe even a hand grinder - like a 4" hand grinder?
I suggest, obtaining a SD35 fuel tank (hint - I have a spare) and grinding the frame down enough to allow this tank to slip over the existing tank, The old Atlas/Roco diecast frame/tank was a horrible rendition...

This will improve the model by 75% alone...
When you perform the labotomy work on the shell, and paint/decal it, then it will look great.
If you plan to re-use the existing motor - I'd remove it cause you introducing a lot of fine metal particles which could get into the motor and cause havok, even though it's non-ferrous/pot metal.

Here is an Atlas GP38 I converted using an Atlas Master fuel tank:





Regards,
Brian

That would make a pretty bad ass unit if you just slapped some reporting marks on and cut her loose!

[pacbelt]

Sept 22, 2015 21:02:54 GMT -5 dtinut said:

Do you have a grinder, maybe even a hand grinder - like a 4" hand grinder?
I suggest, obtaining a SD35 fuel tank (hint - I have a spare) and grinding the frame down enough to allow this tank to slip over the existing tank, The old Atlas/Roco diecast frame/tank was a horrible rendition...

Here is an Atlas GP38 I converted using an Atlas Master fuel tank:





Regards,
Brian

Brian???
You mentioned something about an Atlas fuel tank a while ago....
If you still have it, I could really use it.
~ Carmine

[pacbelt]

Oct 23, 2015 8:30:16 GMT -5 dtinut said:

Swiss cheese - lots of pot metal is like this.
Not sure why... Probably caused by impurities in metal offing gases while still hot.

Brian

You're probably right, Brian....
My career was an engine builder/machinist, outside of the USAF, as an Aircraft Tech.
I don't want to sound arrogant at ALL....
I only worked with pure or semi pure metals. If I had ground down my tank without talking to you first, that sight of "Swiss Cheese" might have concerned me!!

I've seen blemished metals, streaks, cracks, granules and other imperfections - but never BUBBLES in metal...
That must have been one cheap alloy!!

~ Carmine
{EDIT: Brian, who's cab did you use?? It really looks great.}

[pacbelt]

.......... My OCD will make me grab some putty, and fill in ALL of those holes!!!!

~ Carmine

[pacbelt]

EMDX6043, that WOULD look COOL!!