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Post by ironstef70 on Mar 18, 2016 14:41:25 GMT -5
I haven't had much experience with brass diesels, but I have painted a lot of brass steam locomotives. I know you had to tinker a lot with the old drives to get them to run well. I worked on an Alco Models C-630 for over a week to get it to even go around a curve without binding. I agree. I hate these older systems. They are bulky and noisy an not worth refurbishing in my opinion. I would rather spend the time on an athearn BB drivetrain (easy to find replacement parts and very cheap) and detail it after. These older brass trucks (Alco, KMS or Tenshodo) also need detailing anyways. I am concerned about the shells where I believe brass is really worth over time. I like brass where it will ensure the model to last over time: details wont break (antennas, handrails, hoses, plows,...), then also allows for more detailed parts like etched walkways (cannon or Overland). But Overland frames and trucks are worth the money spent; the motors are easy to convert to DCC (just insulate the four supports, replacing screws with wood sticks and epoxy) and I now have an inventory of spare repair parts. Gearbox has metal gears and the transmissions are sitting low, allowing for more room for decoders and speakers. But above all, I guess I am in favor of brass because I like working with that material. I sure do plastic too (I am currently kitbashing a double track truss bridge from Central Valley Models). The same bridge in brass would have cost me eight times more. So yes, I will keep an glue tube handy in case of damage and keep that in mind as I am doing repairs... Stephane |
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