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Post by analogbeatmaker on May 24, 2015 17:03:56 GMT -5
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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CSX GP-38
May 24, 2015 17:32:11 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by Deleted on May 24, 2015 17:32:11 GMT -5
One on the nose A sweet looking.
But you need to quit passing off proto pics as your models lol
Well done
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Post by gnsteve on May 24, 2015 21:35:31 GMT -5
Nicely done. You've really captured the prototype.
Steve
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Post by analogbeatmaker on May 24, 2015 21:56:21 GMT -5
One on the nose A sweet looking. But you need to quit passing off proto pics as your models lol Well done haha! Thank you Vince! I'm glad you like it.  Nicely done. You've really captured the prototype. Steve Thank you Steve! It was a difficult build for me and took a long time to complete but it turned out ok.  |
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Post by nssd70m on May 25, 2015 0:28:10 GMT -5
Nice job! Where did you get those cut levers from? Earl...
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Post by analogbeatmaker on May 25, 2015 0:36:52 GMT -5
Nice job! Where did you get those cut levers from? Earl... Thanks Earl! I scratched those cut levers. Check out this link and scroll down a little over halfway to see a few pics. |
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Post by NS91 on May 25, 2015 9:00:06 GMT -5
Looks good! It looks like something that you would see running on the old Durham and Southern line from Apex to Durham.
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Post by tamaman on May 25, 2015 9:26:08 GMT -5
WOW! the unit looks great and the weathering is perfect.
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Post by antlorch on May 25, 2015 12:48:40 GMT -5
Very nice job especially on the weathering and the wheel bearings.
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Post by analogbeatmaker on May 25, 2015 15:51:01 GMT -5
Looks good! It looks like something that you would see running on the old Durham and Southern line from Apex to Durham. Thank you William! I used to live in Durham and work in Apex...I agree. WOW! the unit looks great and the weathering is perfect. Thank you Kevin!  Very nice job especially on the weathering and the wheel bearings. Thanks Anthony! I had to do a lot of mods on the trucks to get the bearings to look right. Of course after I had done all that I found detail parts online that would've saved all that work. lol |
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efram
Chairman
Posts: 206
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Post by efram on May 27, 2015 9:07:52 GMT -5
Once again, sublime work. A true prototype model. Excellent job!!
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CSX GP-38
May 29, 2015 0:14:06 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by analogbeatmaker on May 29, 2015 0:14:06 GMT -5
Once again, sublime work. A true prototype model. Excellent job!! Thank you for the kindness efram! |
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Post by PVRR 2647 on May 29, 2015 20:54:55 GMT -5
Nick~
Really great model, I especially love the rock pilot, and the cut levers are amazing too. I really need to watch Brian's cut lever video. I see from your build thread that you had to drill holes in the fuel tank for the motor mount screws, I did that on my 40-2/Rd Slug set.
PVRR2647
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emdgp10
Probationary Member
Posts: 8
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Post by emdgp10 on May 30, 2015 2:38:21 GMT -5
Fantastic job! I'm all googly eyed!
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Post by analogbeatmaker on May 31, 2015 21:55:31 GMT -5
Nick~ Really great model, I especially love the rock pilot, and the cut levers are amazing too. I really need to watch Brian's cut lever video. I see from your build thread that you had to drill holes in the fuel tank for the motor mount screws, I did that on my 40-2/Rd Slug set. PVRR2647 Thanks PVRR2647! Yes...Brian's videos are great. I definitely learned how to do my cut levers from his vid. I'm really glad that he puts those out there. Fantastic job! I'm all googly eyed! Thanks emdgp10! |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jun 16, 2015 10:49:54 GMT -5
Nick,
I do not visit this site very often anymore, but I am glad I did today. I would like to make a few comments on your model.
1. Overall finish is great. Parts fit together nicely. No unsightly gaps or joints. Detail fit and finish is really good. Very nice job on the construction.
2. Paint. Crisp and smooth. Good paint finish.
3. Weathering. Not heavily applied and all blends out very well. Your dusting up the sides and how it fades out looks right. I can only offer up one suggestion and that is to use some pin washes on the truck side frames. I really do like the attention you gave to the trucks. Not many people do. It is one of those parts of the model that seem to just get a quick once over with the air brush. You have a nice variation in paint. Enhance it with some pin washes and make it "pop".
One other suggestion. I want to say your talents are thirsting for more, but only you know what you want. I highly suggest though you look into the Ammo of Mig Jimenez weathering products. Lots to offer and will give your weathering effects even more depth. Put away the air brush and really start using the filters, washes, pigments and pan pastels as well as a few other things that you will most likely develop on your own to bring your model to life. Before you start your weathering I suggest finishing your model with a semi-gloss clear coat. The weathering effects will give you a VERY nice contrast. Before using these products though, the model does have to be painted with acrylics. I do not know what kind of paint you prefer.
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Post by Randy Earle on Jun 16, 2015 17:22:54 GMT -5
Nick, fantastic build and background. Your build has won the summer's logo draw.
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Post by analogbeatmaker on Jun 16, 2015 18:55:53 GMT -5
Nick, I do not visit this site very often anymore, but I am glad I did today. I would like to make a few comments on your model. 1. Overall finish is great. Parts fit together nicely. No unsightly gaps or joints. Detail fit and finish is really good. Very nice job on the construction. 2. Paint. Crisp and smooth. Good paint finish. 3. Weathering. Not heavily applied and all blends out very well. Your dusting up the sides and how it fades out looks right. I can only offer up one suggestion and that is to use some pin washes on the truck side frames. I really do like the attention you gave to the trucks. Not many people do. It is one of those parts of the model that seem to just get a quick once over with the air brush. You have a nice variation in paint. Enhance it with some pin washes and make it "pop". One other suggestion. I want to say your talents are thirsting for more, but only you know what you want. I highly suggest though you look into the Ammo of Mig Jimenez weathering products. Lots to offer and will give your weathering effects even more depth. Put away the air brush and really start using the filters, washes, pigments and pan pastels as well as a few other things that you will most likely develop on your own to bring your model to life. Before you start your weathering I suggest finishing your model with a semi-gloss clear coat. The weathering effects will give you a VERY nice contrast. Before using these products though, the model does have to be painted with acrylics. I do not know what kind of paint you prefer. I truly appreciate you checking out my model and leaving kind comments and great suggestions Brian! It is quite an honor coming from you as I have admired your work for a long time.  If it's no bother, I would like to know more about pin washes. Would you be willing to give a brief description on what exactly they are and how to do them? I would also like to add that I didn't use an airbrush at all on this model. All weathering was done with brushes and thinned acrylic paints. You stated that the Mig products need to be used on acrylics and I just faded/weathered the factory paint...except on details that I added and the trucks which I did paint using the same method that I weathered with. Do you know if Atlas uses acrylics to paint their models from the factory...or does that matter on factory paint? I really like the idea of weathering over semi-gloss. Seems like that would mimic the slight sheen a lot of worn diesels seem to have even though they are weathered. Is that correct? Nick, fantastic build and background. Your build has won the summer's logo draw. What a surprise to see my loco on the header...very cool! Thank you for the kindness Randy!! |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jun 17, 2015 8:55:24 GMT -5
Nick,
Atlas does use acrylic paint to paint their models. It is why 91% isopropyl alcohol removes it. Most manufacturers use acrylics now. I would suggest first putting an acrylic flat finish over it and then a semi-gloss. The reason you want to use a semi-gloss finish to weather over is your pin wash will capillary along panel lines and around surface details. A flat finish will not allow this to happen. On a flat finish the wash will spread out. Also, a semi-gloss surface will give you great contrast between the base paint and your weathering. Helps to make you model look like paint on metal rather than on plastic. You want a slight sheen to it in some areas. Even though it is dirty, you still have some sheen going on.
These are general ratios. You can vary the ratio to get different effects.
- Filter is 90% thinner to 10% paint
- Wash is 75% thinner to 25% paint
- streaking fluids are 60% thinner to 40% paint
FILTER's will change the hue of the base color or fade the base color. Do not use just white to fade. When I fade Jenks blue, I use white plus blue and make a filter out of it and add subsequent coats. I am changing from using artist oils for my filters to using Humbrol enamels as well as Ammo of Mig Jimenez pre mixed filters. Filters you apply over the entire surface and you do not want any buildup around details. You want it to wet the surface and not flood it. If you get any build up around details, draw it away with your brush.
How to apply a filter. Make up your mixture, dip your brush in it and apply it to your model. I use turpentine when using artist oils and Humbrol thinner when using enamels. You have to take care to not let the edges dry quickly before applying more. you will get water marks. Let it air dry and do not use a blow dryer. Rapid drying will create water marks also. With creating fades and changing hues, you will have to add multiple layers. Weathering is all about adding layers and taking layers off. For instance, I will apply my fade filter with Humbrol enamels. As soon as I see the surface look dry, I use a makeup sponge and draw it down the side of the hood. This will remove some of the filter off the flat surfaces and leave it around details.
You will not truly see the full effect of your fade until you start adding the pin washes. Then your fade will really pop out because of the contrast in color.
WASH or PIN WASH will enhance a detail. Make it pop as well as give the first step to a dirty/ grimy buildup around it. You can also manipulate a wash to give your base color around a particular detail a stained look. A wash and a pin wash are basically the same. I differentiate a pin wash as when you add the wash around bolt heads or rivet heads and along panel lines. A wash is when you apply it over the entire surface which typically you do not want to do with a wash.
Washes are Very easy to add. Also, do not concern yourself with trying to stay tight around the detail or only getting the wash in the panel line. It is OK if it slops around the intended area. Make up your mixture, dip you brush into it and then just barely touch the rivet head, bolt head or panel line and watch the wash flow. Let that dry for a bit. With the Ammo of Mig Jimenez products, dry time is 15 minutes to half hour. Then again for AMJ products, you can use their thinner (recommended) or mineral spirits. Dip your brush and then wipe it off so it is only damp and not wet. Then start removing the excess wash and blend it out. For a sharper edges, use eye makeup applicator sponge and wipe it away.
STREAKING FLUIDS is exactly what it says. It is for creating rain marks and other streaks caused by weather. Apply it, let it dry and then use thinner to draw it down and create streaking effects.
With streaking fluids, you use a sharp brush tip and draw various thickness and length lines say down the side of your fuel tank. Let the solution dry and then again wet your brush in thinner, tamp it off so it is moist, not wet and draw the brush down. Repeat this until the lines look invisible. Let dry and or repeat until you are satisfied with the results.. You can also use this to draw heavy drip lines. Draw a line. let it dray and then come back to fine tune it with a brush.
The Ammo by Mig Jimenez products are all pre mixed and ready to use. You can mix them to create other effects. I support these products because they really do work. Makes weathering VERY easy and enjoyable. They are enamel based. IT is why I also use Humrol enamels for weathering. The benefit to enamels is after application, you can still manipulate them with thinner after they look dry. After a day or two, they dry hard so you can add more weathering effects without disturbing them as long as you do not flood the area with thinner.
I backup all my weathering with pigments as well. I see pigments as scaled down dirt. It looks like dirt and has the texture of dirt and grime. You can mix pigments with thinners and brush them on. Let it dry and then dust it away. Great for dust and heavy dirt buildup effects. Also, I do not seal my models after I am done. Sealing you model obliterates all the work you just did. This is where I get snotty and arrogant. Nobody should be touching my models except me. I know how to pick them up and how to handle them, nobody else does and therefore keep your dick beaters off! You put a lot of effort into creating your work of art. Nobody else should be handling it.
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Post by analogbeatmaker on Jun 17, 2015 12:02:14 GMT -5
Nobody should be touching my models except me. I know how to pick them up and how to handle them, nobody else does and therefore keep your dick beaters off! Well said! That is not snotty or arrogant in my book. Thank you for the very informative reply Brian. I truly appreciate you taking the time to do that. It has explained a lot. I now know why your finished models paint and weathering look so real...no sealer coat creating a monotone sheen. I'm sure another factor in how good your models look is the light you work under. Would you mind describing that? The techniques and products you describe are new and foreign to me. I enjoy learning to improve and I am going to have to try these ideas. Something I would like to bring into this equation is how would you approach graffiti on rolling stock? Even though you may not have done any, I'm sure you can read my description of how I do that and with the knowledge you have of the weathering techniques/products you employ give me some advice.? I want to discuss this because it sounds like the things you are mentioning would work just as great on rolling stock as it does on engines. Therefore, I'll state my approach to graffiti and hopefully you'll have a few suggestions. I apply my graffiti using a method I learned from Gary Christensen. I start by applying Dullcote to give the surface tooth in order for the paint to cover well. I use acrylic paint which I thin heavily with water...to about the consistency of skim milk. I then use a brush to apply...usually painting several coats to get the opacity I need. Once finished I seal with Dullcote. Whether it a good thing or not, a lot of current rolling stock (and some engines) have graffiti and I want to be able to replicate it as realistically as possible whenever called for. Thank you again Brian! |
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If it's no bother, I would like to know more about pin washes. Would you be willing to give a brief description on what exactly they are and how to do them? I would also like to add that I didn't use an airbrush at all on this model. All weathering was done with brushes and thinned acrylic paints. You stated that the Mig products need to be used on acrylics and I just faded/weathered the factory paint...except on details that I added and the trucks which I did paint using the same method that I weathered with. Do you know if Atlas uses acrylics to paint their models from the factory...or does that matter on factory paint? I really like the idea of weathering over semi-gloss. Seems like that would mimic the slight sheen a lot of worn diesels seem to have even though they are weathered. Is that correct? 