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Post by Randy Earle on Feb 11, 2009 18:57:52 GMT -5
Recently I told my horror story of the Athearn SD-45 I picked up on the bay of evil. Super glue all over the place, you know, one of those professional Cyanacryate-Asorasses. Must be something about SD-45s, but I have another one. This is a Proto 2000 SD-45 I picked up on the evilbay in Union Pacific. I was desparate last year to pick up another one so I bid and won. Got the thing and it was the same thing, Cyanacryate-Asorass! I sent the seller a message on evilbay....no answer! After a day I looked and the seller was not on the bay anymore. Guess he got the heave ho. So I looked a little farther into my prize....The shell on this thing had a crack down the side, seems he took it apart without removing the screws....and then I noticed, HE SUPERGLUED THE COUPLER BOXES ON! Arrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!  (at least I don't have to worry about stripping the paint, eh?) So to save the whole thing, (the mechanism is like new) I picked up a Rail Power Products shell on the cheap and it fits, so I'll have another N&W SD-45 on the workbench. Funny, the Athearn SD-45 uses the RPP shell (albeit refined a bit) so the pair should match at least. |
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Post by riss2509 on Feb 11, 2009 23:03:50 GMT -5
Ah yes! The fun of evilbay, I'm glad I avoid it anymore!!! It does make it hard to find items, but, keeps the projects to a minimum! Good luck Randy!!!
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Post by graftonterminalrr on Feb 12, 2009 10:52:58 GMT -5
Are you able to use anything on the Proto shell, or is it a lost cause? Reason I ask is because the Proto shell really is the best SD45 out there.
One BIG relief about the CAA glue is that unlike plastic cement, it does not melt the plastic, it'll kinda "float" on top of the paint. Therefore, if you dunked the SD45 shell in alcohol for a few days, the paint will strip, and so will the glue, leaving a blemish-free surface.
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dtinut
Chairman
Modeling the DT&I of the 60's & 70's
Posts: 661
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Post by dtinut on Feb 12, 2009 11:30:49 GMT -5
I once bought a Walthers waffle box on ebay, and when it arrived, and I looked at it, it looked like an 8yr old assembled it with the old tube of testors cement - it was all over the place. I wrote the seeler, and said that it was not described as being covered in glue (the photo was taken in such a way, as it did not show). Luckily, the seller took pity and refunded the cost (not the shipping).
I was happy, and the car is now used as a test piece for spraying paint.
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Post by Randy Earle on Feb 12, 2009 15:05:09 GMT -5
Are you able to use anything on the Proto shell, or is it a lost cause? Reason I ask is because the Proto shell really is the best SD45 out there. One BIG relief about the CAA glue is that unlike plastic cement, it does not melt the plastic, it'll kinda "float" on top of the paint. Therefore, if you dunked the SD45 shell in alcohol for a few days, the paint will strip, and so will the glue, leaving a blemish-free surface. Big cracks where the body mounts are on the hood sides where he tried to get the shell off without taking the screws out. I'll same some of the details. |
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Post by graftonterminalrr on Feb 12, 2009 16:26:44 GMT -5
Ouch.
I don't know why some people would bother, buying a real nice not-cheap loco and treating it like it was a Tyco or something.
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Post by Randy Earle on Feb 14, 2009 13:32:55 GMT -5
I just got another P2K SD-45 shell in Union Pacific as a freebie from one of my old customers for this build. So I guess I'll be looking for a way to strip the paint off the P2K shell, and looking for a frame/drive for this Rail Power Products shell. Any ideas?
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Post by MONONC420 on Feb 15, 2009 17:52:48 GMT -5
91% alcohol.
Christian
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Post by Randy Earle on Feb 15, 2009 20:23:17 GMT -5
I guess I'll have to visit Drugmart.
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liengineerbob
Chairman
Sitting at my workbench trying to figure out what to do next!
Posts: 335
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Post by liengineerbob on Feb 19, 2009 12:50:00 GMT -5
91% alcohol will take care of that P2K paint is short order. Should take no more than 30 mins or so to remove the paint to bare plastic.
When I have a spare shell, I often root around the parts box to see what I can cobble together!!!
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Post by Randy Earle on Feb 19, 2009 12:55:31 GMT -5
What kind of container do you put it in to strip it with alcohol?
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Post by stillbre on Feb 19, 2009 14:43:14 GMT -5
An old Tuperware container. Just make sure your wife is done with it. The lid seals in the odors. It also allows you to flip the model so that both sides have time to be submerged in the alcohol. The container I have is big enough to fit a half dozen shells laying on their sides.
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