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Post by jakeloyst on Jan 17, 2014 20:43:40 GMT -5
Originally UP decided to upgrade their fleet rather than purchase new switchers. They used the SW7-9 and added parts being scavenged from GP's that were being retired, a full size kitbash, much like CN SWeeps. The resin kit is from DLH Locomotive works, and the hood is a standard Athearn SW7. CP has purchased some rebuilt and now retired units and has them painted in current CP red. This is a start, its a switcher, so I have to have one, now the problem is, use the CP red, or the Maroon and Grey, and stay in my own little world, where CN green and CP maroon still rule.
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Post by iomalley on Jan 18, 2014 9:11:43 GMT -5
Awful lot of droop on that resin piece...
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Post by jakeloyst on Jan 18, 2014 10:34:54 GMT -5
Yes I.ve tried several times to lift it, but even in warm water and then holding it down after a few days it comes back the same, Next step is to make a small brass box to slid in the opening and then use the smokey valley rad grills to cover it. This is the first version, Athearn hood cab and frame, the next one will be with the proto hood but have to modify the front casting to match the width, and with the Cannon cab.
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Post by enginseer on Jan 18, 2014 10:39:38 GMT -5
Looks like an awful lot of work going on here.
I'm interested to see the final product. Too bad about that resin piece though.
I work with lots of multi-media kits in my modeling hobby, but I've always been successful at getting the resin to "bend to my will"!
Here, it looks like the piece might be a little thick and short to be able to get the piece to come back to shape.
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Post by jpwisc on Jan 18, 2014 11:36:30 GMT -5
Maybe removing some of the material from the underside would help.
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Post by jakeloyst on Jan 18, 2014 14:08:25 GMT -5
cant remove too much, the rad cover fits very close to the size it is,and Im not sure if removing some material and then using styrene would stop the sag, the entire piece is like that,
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Post by tjmfishing on Jan 18, 2014 14:14:14 GMT -5
Try putting it in a vise upside down, with either end lodged against the vise. Bend it straight and lay aluminum tubing from lenghtwise - I'd use three or four pieces for this. Glue them in with a ton of CA and leave it in the vise to set overnight. That should take the bend out of it.
Use aluminum as a) it won't be as likely to bow like brass and b) it doesn't expand and contract as much as brass.
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Post by jakeloyst on Jan 18, 2014 19:48:14 GMT -5
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Post by icghogger on Jan 18, 2014 20:06:57 GMT -5
Damn, that was fast (and well done, too)!!
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Post by jakeloyst on Jan 18, 2014 20:27:24 GMT -5
thanks, to fast though, as you can see I forgot to paint the cab!
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Post by acollins on Jan 18, 2014 21:14:02 GMT -5
Thats a different shade of maroon, Jake. Lol
Looks awesome none the less bud.
Alex
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Post by tjmfishing on Jan 18, 2014 21:56:07 GMT -5
Glossy!!
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Post by jakeloyst on Jan 18, 2014 22:05:28 GMT -5
I've always wanted an SW10, but didn't figure UP would ever make it this far north! CP buying some used has opened a whole new door. Once I get a hood finished with the right doors and latches, there will definetly be a maroon and grey version!!
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Post by jakeloyst on Jan 18, 2014 23:07:19 GMT -5
The footboards have been removed and the pilots cleaned up, Styrene strip added along the frane to level out the deck, one flush strip, and access doors added to the cab from a Cannon sub base kit, not exact but close . Headlight castings on both ends are MBE.
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Post by jakeloyst on Jan 18, 2014 23:07:45 GMT -5
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Post by iomalley on Jan 19, 2014 10:00:21 GMT -5
Wow! That was quick! I can't persuade you to put on a Cannon cab?
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Post by acollins on Jan 19, 2014 11:06:01 GMT -5
Jake, I have a Cannon SW cab if you need one. I agree with Shawn, that would really add to it.
Alex
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Post by m a y o r 79 on Jan 19, 2014 11:23:46 GMT -5
Yeah ive heard the Athearn cab is bad, everyone here convinced me to swap it on my TR-4 project (if I could only find it in stock somewhere). I agree getting a Cannon cab on that build would make it that much better.
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Post by big train james on Jan 19, 2014 13:12:34 GMT -5
Caboose Hobbies here in Denver shows the Cannon early switcher cab in stock. The "late" switcher cab kit is shown as on order.
There was an article years ago in one of the mags about kitbashing this model. I'm going to guess either MR or RMC as those were the two magazines my Dad subscribed to at the time. I was pretty fascinated with these units as a kid, and was going to try the build. Never got around to it though. I eventually bought one of the Overland models as an adult. I sold that model on ebay a year or two ago as I am sliding toward O scale for future modeling.
Maybe take a look around for the Overland model. They were quite nice.
Jim
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Post by jakeloyst on Jan 19, 2014 14:41:19 GMT -5
I have a box of cannon cabs, this is the first version, trial type, see where Im going to have problems, etc,etc, next one will be with the proto hood, and frame, with the cannon cab. Also waiting on more cannon fans and plano rad grills and louvres. This one has smokey valley grills, and precision scale fans. The Athearn cab and hood leave a lot to be desired, as does the frame.
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