milw199
Superintendent
Beaded crossbucks FTW
Posts: 180
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Post by milw199 on Nov 5, 2013 19:10:53 GMT -5
Recently I got back an Athearn H24-66 I had a long time ago. My dad had latched onto it, and as he was thinning some stuff out, I got it back. It was missing a few handrail parts, but I looked in my old parts box and they were in there. This one had one of the old gray motor and flywheels, but no drive shafts. I rummaged through my parts box and found parts that would make it run like it used to. Not pleased, I looked at some other drive train parts I had around. It turns out a Genesis motor bolts in, as long as some Kadee washers are on the screws so they don't pull through the mounts. This assemblage still sits lower than the truck towers. Hex drive lines from a SD40-2 fit and work well. NWSL wheels were added, and wires soldered to the trucks for better pickup. Xmas tree LEDs were turned down to fit the headlight housings, and wired up to a TCS A4X decoder, no resistors needed. Unfortunately, MILW didn't have any H24-66s, only H16-66s. I haven't gotten the guts to take out the 4-foot section. The 556-559 number block wasn't used until the SD10 rebuilds of 1974, so it falls into an unused number. Good enough for me. Time to add a few MILW looking details and call it good.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2013 19:28:17 GMT -5
This is the reason I keep all those old parts in my 'bits box'! I love how easily you can do this to the old athearn models. Looks like you've done a great job.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using proboards
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milw199
Superintendent
Beaded crossbucks FTW
Posts: 180
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Post by milw199 on Nov 5, 2013 21:12:42 GMT -5
The parts have been in the box for about 20 years. Now to keep going on it. I'm not going to go all out on it, as the Atlas one is so much nicer. If somebody does want to go all out on one, check this out: www.trainlife.com/magazines/pages/577/40720/june-1994-page-26 Combined with the Genesis drive parts, you could have an engine that costs more than an Atlas, yet doesn't run as well, as the Athearn trucks are a bit dated and sloppy. Not sure if some of the parts called out are still available (etched screens and so forth). Atlas parts might be a substitute, if you can get them.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2013 3:27:36 GMT -5
That's a cool model but like you say the atlas drives are better. However, if you've got the parts lying around...
Sent from my GT-I9100 using proboards
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milw199
Superintendent
Beaded crossbucks FTW
Posts: 180
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Post by milw199 on Nov 7, 2013 3:01:04 GMT -5
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2013 9:19:56 GMT -5
That's why I love blue box, because you can work wonders on with your own skills.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using proboards
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Post by morey2001 on Nov 12, 2013 9:31:59 GMT -5
If you're interested, MR had an article in the mid/late 70's, with a Stan Mailer byline, on bashing the Athearn into a H16-66 ala the units running in ore service at the time in the CNW/Milw upper peninsula ore pool....always thought that would be a neat 'bash, it's been in my informal 'around to it' file....
Chris Morey morey2001
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rjm
Road Foreman
Iron Horses Forever
Posts: 92
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Post by rjm on Nov 12, 2013 17:23:31 GMT -5
Great have been using older parts for newer units also. Could you explain the statement "Xmas tree LEDs were turned down to fit the headlight housings, and wired up to a TCS A4X decoder, no resistors needed." for us younger modelers? Thanks RJ
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milw199
Superintendent
Beaded crossbucks FTW
Posts: 180
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Post by milw199 on Nov 12, 2013 22:42:32 GMT -5
December 1986 Model Railroader has an article by Tom Busack on making a H16-66. It looks pretty simple: take roughly 4 feet out, glue back together, detail to suit, paint. June 1986 Railroad Model Craftsman has plans and prototype info by Win A Cuisinier, and some color pictures. I used some 5mm (I think) warm white LEDs I harvested from a string of Xmas lights. This is too big to fit in the headlight housing on the shell. I chucked up the LED into my drill, turned it on, and held a file against the LED. The plastic around the LED files off easily, and before long the diameter was reduced enough to fit in the cast-in housing. I then added wires, tested to make sure it worked, and glued the LED into the shell. The only downside is now pretty much every other engine I have seems to be lacking in the headlight department next to this one. A Kato motor might be next. This should reduce the height enough to add more lead to the roof, above the motor. I hope to add 6-8 more ounces (or more) to it, so it pulls better. It won't be up to Genesis FP45 weight, but it should be better than it is now.
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rjm
Road Foreman
Iron Horses Forever
Posts: 92
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Post by rjm on Nov 13, 2013 13:16:21 GMT -5
milw199 thank you for the headlight trick. Have plenty to do this way. RJ
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milw199
Superintendent
Beaded crossbucks FTW
Posts: 180
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Post by milw199 on Nov 13, 2013 15:58:54 GMT -5
I saw the headlight trick somewhere else, and bookmarked it. Unfortunately, the link seems to no longer work.
The other gentleman turned them down to fit normal single headlight holes, then chopped away other parts to get a LED in each headlight hole.
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Post by jakeloyst on Nov 14, 2013 18:34:12 GMT -5
last I checked atlas still had the screen and fans avail, if its just the screen, details associats still makes 2 sets, one for the rad, and one for the other dynamic/exhaust vents
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